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Thread: Rolling scaffold

  1. #11
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Now have all of the scaffolding mounted on the bus chassis all of the bracing in place and secured the scaffold is chained down in multiple places holding not only the scaffold in place but the postal carts and the beams as well. The only way anything could fall of would be for the bus to roll over and that is not likely to happen since I am using jack stands under the ends of the postal carts to serve as outriggers further stabilizing the structure.
    What I should do now is to add planking on top of the scaffold maybe I can get that done tomorrow
    Rolling scaffold-20191121_160042ds.jpg

    Rolling scaffold-20191121_172202ds.jpg

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    Never try to tell me it can't be done
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  2. #12
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    Now it looks like rain and cold weather is the only thing stopping getting the first perlin up (assuming no other tasks).
    Per a model that comes from Dallas/Fort Worth, TX;
    https://www.iweathernet.com/interactive-radar

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  3. #13
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    Now it looks like rain and cold weather is the only thing stopping getting the first perlin up (assuming no other tasks).
    Per a model that comes from Dallas/Fort Worth, TX;
    https://www.iweathernet.com/interactive-radar
    I do have one thing I'm going to do before the purlins. That is to "X"cable brace it and check for squareness
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
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  4. #14
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    Congratulations Frank S - your Schoolbus Scaffold is the Homemade Tool of the Week!

    We've seen plenty of schoolies, a school bus converted into a house, and school bus hay bale loaders, but this is a new one.

    Some more good builds from this week:

    Portable Bandsaw Base by Crusty
    Sandblaster by PowerMk
    Air Compressor Drain Valve Extension by Sgbarker
    Steampunk Belt Grinder by Scratch
    Diamond Wheel Arbor by shopandmath
    Pen by Making Stuff
    Screw Grinding Knob by mastersdlm
    Scroll Saw by rendoman
    Metal Lathe Spindle by Claudio HG
    Milling Arbor by Stevohdee
    Drill Press Laser Guide by garage nut
    Magnetic Vise Jaws by mariost
    Sheetmetal Bender by Kwandotechnic
    Cam Clamps by RCTURKA
    Fixed Tool Post by tonyfoale
    Wad Punch by ttmrj
    Garage Door Bracket by garage nut
    Miter Saw Improvements by Christofix
    3D Welder Current and Voltage Monitor by MOST
    Project Box by HandmadeCreativeChannel
    Automated Mapping Four Point Probe by MOST


    Frank S - you'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and gift card choice and I'll get it sent over right away.

    This is your 6th Homemade Tool of the Week. Here are all of your Homemade Tool of the Week winning tools. Congrats again



  5. #15
    Supporting Member Crusty's Avatar
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    Another feather in yer bonnet Frank. It's nice to see you get some recognition for the skill and hard work that went into this project.
    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

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    Frank S (Nov 22, 2019)

  7. #16
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty View Post
    Another feather in yer bonnet Frank. It's nice to see you get some recognition for the skill and hard work that went into this project.
    Thanks Crusty, not sure how much skill is involved. as for hard work if I were still in my 40s or even 50's I'd have laughed and said just another day in the salt mine no big deal. I can still do most of what I did back then but it takes a whole lot longer and since I know I don't bounce very well nor do I have the strength I once had I have to plan my movements better.
    Was chilly and rainy most of the day today so didn't do much on the shop and sure didn't climb the scaffolding to lift some boards up there
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
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  8. #17
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    I do have one thing I'm going to do before the purlins. That is to "X"cable brace it and check for squareness
    Checking square on this large a structure has to have some trick you know about. Just seems real tough to measure the long distances from the peak to the opposite eve corners.


    So are the perlins installed at the same spacing as the original ones? I assume you have to reuse the same roofing holes that use the self tapping screws with the rubber seal grommet. Unless you have some method of filling the holes in used sheeting.

  9. #18
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    Checking square on this large a structure has to have some trick you know about. Just seems real tough to measure the long distances from the peak to the opposite eve corners.


    So are the perlins installed at the same spacing as the original ones? I assume you have to reuse the same roofing holes that use the self tapping screws with the rubber seal grommet. Unless you have some method of filling the holes in used sheeting.
    It would be next to impossible to guarantee all of the holes would strike over the purlins. there are several ways to fill the old holes some better than others and some quite time consuming. One of the flex seal products would work quite well. Ceramic coat roof sealing paint works even better while being UV stable it deflects much of the radiative heat away from the metal But there is still another way that will do nearly the same job while being cheaper that is to use plain old white latex house paint that has metal adhesion properties, and mix in fine ceramic blasting media that can be bought at HF or northern tool the media helps to bridge the holes and adds some to the thermal barrier properties.
    As far as the squareness of the building goes the 4 corners were shot in to within half an inch diagonally when I set them. SO basically what I will do is to cordon off 4 15 ft by 15 ft squares at each corner add in some bracing then cable pull to square them, this will pull the building close enough, since it is in actuality really just a glorified pole barn as long as it look square from half a mile away is close enough LOL.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
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  10. #19
    Supporting Member Crusty's Avatar
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    The skill I was referring to is the skill that it takes to design everything, even if only mentally, so that it all comes together solidly and that things fit when they do come together. I'm still not quite there since I usually have to mod things mid-build in my projects to recover from something I overlooked in the design phase. Love it when a plan comes together the way it was planned.
    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

  11. #20
    Supporting Member jdurand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty View Post
    The skill I was referring to is the skill that it takes to design everything, even if only mentally, so that it all comes together solidly and that things fit when they do come together. I'm still not quite there since I usually have to mod things mid-build in my projects to recover from something I overlooked in the design phase. Love it when a plan comes together the way it was planned.
    Something I fine very very useful is when you think you have your design done, explain how it works to someone else. They should have at least a modicum of knowledge about how whatever you're designing works (building, plumbing, circuit, ...). Many is the time it's saved me, as in "there's no source of 2.5 volt power!" or "are you sure that will fit in the space allowed".

    Most of the time you'll catch your own mistake while explaining it. The person listening may catch it but it's more likely you will.

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