Power feed for mini lathe and mini mill

[dgbreggin]

Some time ago, I added X-Axis power feed to my mini mill. (I'll post about this at a future time.)

Shortly after, I decided that I should have power feed for the Y-Axis, as well as power feed for most operations on my mini lathe. I recently added a crank handle to the Z-Axis fine feed knob of my mini mill (posted here recently). I decided that this, too, should have power feed capability.

The benefits of power feed include:
* consistent speed, producing better finish
* reduces operator fatigue during repetitive operations

Requirements:
* use without modifying machines
* wide range of operating speed
* low voltage (for safety)
* easy reverse
* easy "100% speed" for rapid traverse or tool withdrawal

I decided to use 12V DC for this system. I purchased a PWM motor speed control with display, and a common 12V power supply as used for computers and similar electronic. Both sourced from Amazon.

Since DC motors lose a lot of torque at reduced speed, I built 4 easily interchanged power drive units with different gearing. That way I could get a wide range of speeds without trying to operate the motors at low speed. All the motors turn at about 5k max RPM and have attached gear reduction for the rated RPM. After experimentation, I settled on 220, 120, 50, and 20 RPM. These motors, along with the mounting brackets, were sourced from Amazon.



I used residential solar-panel type connectors and plugs (Amazon).

The control box has an on-off switch, a speed display (%, not RPM), a speed control knob, and a "max speed" override switch. It also has the power connector, and 3 power drive unit plug-ins. I wanted to be able to use one power drive unit for slow cutting and another for fast withdrawal. Having multiple plug-ins allowed quick switching of the power drive units.



The control box hangs on the front of the top drawer of either of the tool chests that have my machines on top. That way it doesn't clutter the workspace and can be removed and stored when not in use.

Each power drive unit consists of a motor, a handle, and a control switch (forward, off, reverse). The motor shaft has a 2-1/4" extension with a 3/8" square drive that fits commonly available sockets. I installed a rubber O-ring at the end of the square to help retain the socket. The shaft extension allows the drive to be used without the various machine crank handles hitting the operator's fingers. The switches are common automotive power window switches. Press one side for forward and the other for reverse. Release the switch to stop.



The power drive unit handle is 1" square aluminum tube. At the end is a round disk with the motor / gearbox mounted to it. It was designed so that I could pivot the handle to different positions, like "right hand" and "left hand". In practice I never use this feature so I would not go to that effort if I were going to build it again.



I designed a "driver stem" with a hex that fits the socket on the drive unit (14mm in this case, though the size is not critical). It also has a flange that can easily be mounted to whatever type of drive adapter I might need to operate the various machine controls. This was made from 1" aluminum hex stock.



I made the following adapters:
* Mini-mill Y-Axis (also fits X-axis, FWIW)
* Mini mill fine downfeed crank (crank project posted recently)
* Rotary table
* Mini-lathe cross-slide
* Mini-lathe compound
* Mini-lathe tailstock quill



The adapters are designed to fit the crank / handle of the specific machine function. Most of the adapters will snap in place or are held in place by friction (supplemented with painter's tape, as needed). This makes it easy to remove the power drive unit between operations and/or swap power drive units.







What I might do differently:

* As mentioned, changing the angle of the motor on the handle just isn't necessary with my setup.

* I was not able to figure out how to get the display to show 100% when I used the max-speed override switch. If I were doing it again, I would probably add an indicator lamp to show when this switch is activated.

[DIYer]

Thanks dgbreggin! We've added your Mini Mill Power Feeds to our Milling category,
as well as to your builder page: dgbreggin's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Mini Mill Power Feeds by dgbreggin

tags: mill, power feed

[Jon]

Congratulations dgbreggin - your Mini Mill Power Feeds are the Homemade Tool of the Week!

These are well thought-out power feeds, and the various adapters greatly extend their utility.

Some more good builds from this week:

Dot Peen Marking Method by rgsparber
Brake by orioncons36
Mill Spindle Modification by GBWM
Lathe Lever Switch Modification by Frank S
Mini Lathe Tool Rest by Guy Marsden
Carver's Mallet by Philip Davies
Fly Cutter by Rustinox
Locking Knob Template by Didpoolhall
Chisel and Turning Tool Rack by Mazay
Rivnut Tool by Improvised DIY
Pipe Welding Positioner by Topper Machine
Automated Dust Collection Gate by thecuzdoes
Chain Link Tool by Metalgeria

dgbreggin - you'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and gift card choice and I'll get it sent over right away.

This is your 2nd Homemade Tool of the Week. Here are both of your Homemade Tool of the Week winning tools. Congrats again

Drill Press Depth Stop by dgbreggin

tags: drill press, stop

Mini Mill Power Feeds by dgbreggin

tags: mill, power feed

[Don42]

Really nice project! One comment for future reference: Permanent magnet and shunt-wound DC motors do not lose torque at reduced speed. Torque is limited only by max current. As speed is varied by supply voltage or by a PWM controller, torque can be up to max from rated speed clear down to stall. Series wound DC motors as are commonly found in corded power tools deliver more torque at lower speeds.

[dgbreggin]

Really nice project! One comment for future reference: Permanent magnet and shunt-wound DC motors do not lose torque at reduced speed. Torque is limited only by max current. As speed is varied by supply voltage or by a PWM controller, torque can be up to max from rated speed clear down to stall. Series wound DC motors as are commonly found in corded power tools deliver more torque at lower speeds.

Great info. Thanks.

Can you suggest specific motors like these that would work in this application?

[Don42]

Your 20 RPM gear motor is rated at 0.31 kg-cm torque, at 0.6 amps. This 220 RPM 12-volt motor,
https://tinyurl.com/2p8r37x7
is rated for 0.875 kgf-cm of torque at 1.4 amps, or 2.8X the torque of your 20 RPM motor, so it could handle your entire range of speeds and loads. If driven by a little over 1 volt it would turn at about 20 RPM. The motors with greater gear reduction might be a bit "stiffer" (more constant speed) with varying loads, but a motor controller with speed feedback would be very stiff.

[dgbreggin]

There has been a lot of interest, so I thought I'd post a couple more pictures.



These are for the cross-slide. I made a similar adapter for the compound which is very handy for turning cones and tapers.

[old_toolmaker]

Thanks for the great explanation of DC motor torque as it relates to permanent magnet motors. I recently replaced my Unimat series wound AC motors with 24v DC permanent motors and motor control. I now have great speed control with steady torque.

[dgbreggin]

UPDATE

I purchased one of the motors recommended and built a handle for it.

The new motor / handle weighs about 50% more than my earlier ones. This is the only down side, and it is quite minor.

The power available at lower speed is much better than the previous motors. I may still use one of my existing low speed motors when I need really slow movement, which is rare, but for everything else I can now use a single unit.

This is a big improvement. My thanks to Don42 for his insight and assistance.

Here are some pictures.





There is a motor mounting bracket available, but it did not suit my installation very well so I just made my own. As I suggested in my first post, I did not make the handle angle adjustable this time.