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Well warping a blade during a quench is a common issue when making knives. It happens from time to time to everyone. This quick acting set of plates will prevent this from happening.
You have a small window of time after the quench to straighten the blade before it's as hard a glass. That is where these plates come in handy!
https://youtu.be/ZwvQpVP3-5I
Yall have a nice day :hattip:
Red Beard
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Thanks JKeetonKnives! We've added your Knife Straightening Plates to our Knife Making category,
as well as to your builder page: JKeetonKnives's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-knife-straightening-plates"> <img src="/uploads/233089/homemade-knife-straightening-plates.png"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-knife-straightening-plates">Knife Straightening Plates</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/JKeetonKnives">JKeetonKnives</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/vise'>vise</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/straight'>straight</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/knife'>knife</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I like the impact driver actuation a lot, I might just have to add that to my normal vise and make some removable straightening plates for myself.
The reason the vise jaws aren't parallel isn't because of of cheap construction, but is intended to combat racking. I recently built myself a wood vise and I'm kicking myself for not including that kind of angle on it, because the wood twists in the vise when planing it without that angle.
I like this project, the way you have built it, and the whole concept of clamping the blade after quenching. However, I am wondering why it was necessary to shim the jaws to make them parallel. The jaws are only ever going to clamp tightly on the parallel tang and never fully on the tapered blade surface, whether they are parallel or not. If it is the thin cutting edge that is most likely to warp then that doesn’t appear to be clamped/supported at all. Nor would the front end of a distal tapered blade be supported.
Hey man, I do my heat treating before grinding in bevels. So for my use case it may be slightly more advantageous. Cheers sir!
Sorry, I didn’t realise that it was unfinished prior to heat treat.