Top Hung Rolling Door Bracket

Not a tool but a useful assembly if your building a workshop or other out building. So I spent the summer building a patio, porch and fresh-air workshop. I decided the best option for the back workshop entrance was a rolling door. In the first picture is one finished bracket for the rolling door and the parts for the second bracket before welding up.

Attachment 19423

In this picture I try the fit on the wood and steel flat bar rail.

Attachment 19424

Here the brackets are mounted on the closed door.

Attachment 19425

The door in the open position.

Attachment 19426

Worked out great, runs smoothly and opens with the push of one finger. The full build is at this link Hobby Workshop Projects

I've thought long and hard on rolling doors. They have great benefits; especially space to swing isn't needed, but some differences in locking shut.
My 1890's all brick building has two, neither operate. Both share same issue, deformed tubing track.
One 8x11 faces south; being ideal open for worki at adjacent milling machine. Eastward, a 10x10 is a loaddock, too low for modern vehicles. There I'm considering cutting floor out, and ramp for flatbeds to enter building. That door is all oak, deserving preservation; once I solve the gap from existing floor height to grade level. The farm stores and gate hardware mfr's offer rolling door hardware. They are sized for various weight per roller, and corresponding track, which now are formed rectangular sections. Haven't found heavy-duty hardware for wood yet; estimate weight at 1200+ lbs. Creating my own is not beyond available equipment.
I feel the heaviest doors should have a pair (or more sets) of dual wheels, heavily sprung and swivel on a single pivot.

Hi Toolmaker51. Yes I chose the sliding door because it takes up no room to operate and since this is an open air workshop/garage getting a tight weather seal was not a big concern. The door comes in about 70 lbs. I come in over 3 times that and can do chin-ups on the rail without budging it. I considered a welded angle iron rail but felt it would be overkill for a door this size. Three brackets similar to this on a bolted and welded angle iron rail will easily support a half ton door, heavier casters would be required so you don't deform the frame and axles. Certainly a lot cheaper than store hardware and just as good if not better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

I've thought long and hard on rolling doors. They have great benefits; especially space to swing isn't needed, but some differences in locking shut.
My 1890's all brick building has two, neither operate. Both share same issue, deformed tubing track.
One 8x11 faces south; being ideal open for worki at adjacent milling machine. Eastward, a 10x10 is a loaddock, too low for modern vehicles. There I'm considering cutting floor out, and ramp for flatbeds to enter building. That door is all oak, deserving preservation; once I solve the gap from existing floor height to grade level. The farm stores and gate hardware mfr's offer rolling door hardware. They are sized for various weight per roller, and corresponding track, which now are formed rectangular sections. Haven't found heavy-duty hardware for wood yet; estimate weight at 1200+ lbs. Creating my own is not beyond available equipment.
I feel the heaviest doors should have a pair (or more sets) of dual wheels, heavily sprung and swivel on a single pivot.

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PC Henderson of Santa Anna CA has just what you are looking for these folks have track systems for up to 4400 lb doors
PcHenderson Industrial Door track for sliding doors

Embarrassed to be unaware of Woodward's Hardware; even googled it see store front...having lived in the smackdab middle of Santa Ana for a time. All kinds of history there to be sure. Owned residence of early Postmaster Chilton 1883 [wouldn't if that name very slightly different!], and surrounded by all kinds historic residences.

Frank's link to rolling door hardware will benefit many HMT'ers; sizes, capacity, mounting specs...you know, comparison shopping and all. lol.
Funny thing, the internet. I'm sure Woodward's is a retailer, not manufacturer, judging by picture supplied. Usually a search limits itself with too specific wording. Apparently I kept clicking retail sources, as consumers we are accustomed to that. Most nicer looking than heavy duty; decorator vs serious use. Don't recall ANY with a 4400 lb rating! That approaches weights of good sized fire doors - inclined track, counterweights, fusible links and all.
Depending on what is sought, many items sort faster from the bottom up "manufacturers of......" for example instead of "rolling door tracks". Also a good idea to dump cookies regularly. Make sites work for what you want - not what needs sold off.

OK. Now how about gap that will result by cutting floor out and pouring a concrete ramp? Door now rides just above floor, around 30" above grade, inside foot thick wall directly next to sidewalk. Really want to preserve the oak door, but a 30" gap isn't very secure IYKWIM. Largest vehicle is 10 wheel 22' 54k flat bed.
Attachment 19445

the 30" gap is the easy part just hinge a drop down with large cane bolt locks on each end the leaf could be hoisted up to lay against the door by a windless or spring system like that of a garage door mounted on the door itself so it moves with the door, make the drop leaf out of barn wood if you wanted
I've done similar at a business in ST Louis many years ago the building was the old Carter carburetor factory the door may still be there

Those are huge doors the type used in manufacturing facilities, airplane hangers and large barns. It only makes sense to go with engineered hardware for such installations, even things like wind resistance have to be considered in such a large sail. But for workshops and similar out buildings, making your own is part of the exercise, and in my case part of the enjoyment of building.

Update: Completed the door lock this morning, serves two purposes, locks the door and clamps the door frame to the building frame to resist things like wind gusts. The door stop and retainer do a similar job on the other side of the frame. Very heavy duty and easy to apply and remove, just turn a screw.

Attachment 19475

Neat do you have a way that you could add a grease cup above the nut and drill a small hole in it to lubricate the threads
repeated use will wear the threads

This would also be a good application for a cam over lock

Hi Frank S, Yes that would be convenient but complicate the assembly, a grease nipple would be more convenient, but I feel that would be more than required, the occasional squirt of grease will be sufficient for the amount it will be used. I also chose an extra thick screw plate so there's lots of thread there. Yes a cam over lock would work, the screw and screw plate is a simple and forgiving construction.