Trailer axle lock pin clevis

[Frank S]

My bud traded off one of the trailers I had rebuilt a few years ago for a 2009 Aluminum stepdeck.

He stopped by today to show me what we now had, upon crawling under it I told him there were a couple issues that needed tending before he leaves
2 of the lock pins were in bad shape and someone had actually tried dirt dauber welding them to make them work.

I first wrapped all of the air lines with a few of my pipe marker wraps to protect them from sparks. THe thing about the nylon DOT airbrake lines is if under pressure the least little spark will damage them without pressure in them they are a little less prone to getting a hole melted in them.

close up of the clevice

I ground off the bad parts

Then I made new clevises from 1/4 by 1" flat bar clamped to my 1" thick steel table

First bend

After making the first bend I turned the bar over placed it on top o fa strip of 1/2" thick bar so it would have support for the second bend
I placed a 1/4" thick strip on top to serve as the clevis separation spacer

then made the final fold

Hole positioning is not extremely critical this is close enough

After the hole was drilled I sawed off the clevis then rounded the edges

The holes in the link bars were in bad shape from being welded on so I slightly reamed the oversize then cut bushings out of 1/2" 304 SS .035" wall

Then welded the clevises to the lock pins and used 2" grade 8 bolts with long enough shoulders to reach through the clevis
the bushings are .270" long and the link bars are .250" thick this allowed me to tighten the bolts using gr( nylock nuts as well
Should last longer than the garbage the factory used I would have liked to have reamed the link bars out enough to press fit a bronze bushing in for the SS bushing to pivot on but sine they will probably only be used one every few weeks the cost could not be justified