Using Circular saw blades on Miter Saw

Hi all,

I've got a technical question of sorts. I have both a circular saw and miter saw. The circular saw uses 230mm (9") blades but the miter uses 255mm (10") blades. Can I use circular saw blades on the miter saw?

Aside from the fact that they spin in the other direction, would there be other issues with this? The bore is the same 25.4mm (1").

There are many stainless steel blades for circular saws that come in 230mm (9") and 305mm (12") sizes for circular and chop saws but none that I have found in 255mm (10") size for miter saws. I don't know why that is.

Thanks for your input,

The answer to your question is YES, BUT do not put the 10" blade on the 9" saw.

Mitre saws generally do not use stainless steel blades because, as they are designed to be mobile, do not cool the blade as efficiently as a table saw and stainless steel blades are thought to be more susceptible to warping.

Drew
That was interesting. I do not own a miter saw but I do have a radial arm saw and table saw. Depending on what I am cutting I will use a rip or crosscut. On my table saw I mainly use a combination blade. I guess it is all about what you are cutting. All blades have a purpose but I still hold to one first reply, the blades can be used on either saws, the real concern is what are you going to cut that will affect the life of the blade.
Nelson

There is a trap for young (or inexperienced players) here....
Mitre saw blades and RAS blades should have about 5 deg NEGATIVE hook angle. Positive hook will lift work dangerously on both saws. Negative hook pushes work down and against fence. Rip blades can be used on RAS when turned for ripping, but work holdown MUST be in place as violent lifting will occur.

Table saw combo blades, frequently Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) typically 15 deg hook - cuts clean, pulls work down to table.
Table saw Rip Blades may have square top teeth with deep gullet and 20 deg hook - cuts well in direction of grain, clears large amount of sawdust, pulls wood down.
Table saw Triple Chip blades - more teeth ATB and Triple chip teeth, typically 10 deg hook - cut veneer, melamine, laminates and composites with little chipping.
Don't hurt yourself for an $80 blade.....please...
Saw Tip Angles Explained

Cheers guys,
Jim in South Coast NSW

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beserkleyboy

There is a trap for young (or inexperienced players) here....
Mitre saw blades and RAS blades should have about 5 deg NEGATIVE hook angle. Positive hook will lift work dangerously on both saws. Negative hook pushes work down and against fence. Rip blades can be used on RAS when turned for ripping, but work holdown MUST be in place as violent lifting will occur.

Table saw combo blades, frequently Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) typically 15 deg hook - cuts clean, pulls work down to table.
Table saw Rip Blades may have square top teeth with deep gullet and 20 deg hook - cuts well in direction of grain, clears large amount of sawdust, pulls wood down.
Table saw Triple Chip blades - more teeth ATB and Triple chip teeth, typically 10 deg hook - cut veneer, melamine, laminates and composites with little chipping.
Don't hurt yourself for an $80 blade.....please...
Saw Tip Angles Explained

Cheers guys,
Jim in South Coast NSW

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Back when I had both a radial arm saw and a table saw I kept the spare blades for each in a cabinet next to the saw. On of my workers grabbed a blade for the RAS and put it on the table saw the result was the piece he was cutting a grove in bounced up and was ruined no body hurt just the work piece tossed around
My 12" miter saw has a carbide tipped blade probably 5 years old now still cuts like a charm but I don't use it often

Well put Frank,
Yes, storing blades with or near their machine is the best and safest way to go. In big shops, workers are trained to use the right tools for the machine. Too many hobby woodworking magazines tell the punters to 'make this or that flash rack to hold ALL your sawblades in 1 place!' And BTW, arbor size is not something randomly selected by manufacturers. One reason is to keep people from using the wrong blade on the wrong tool. Their are a few crossovers, like the one the OP is in trouble with; namely the 1" chop saw and 1" industrial table saw. Most handheld circular saws and most table saws designed to be used by NOT professionals or in an industrial environment, have 5/8" arbor. The big problem is that now there are so many different types of tools pitched at so many markets, that confusion will occur.
And just BTW, most 10" table saws with that pissy little 5/8' arbor would perform much better with 1"!! My Taiwan Wadkin clone is a sliding table, Tilting arbor 12" with 1" arbor and I have a HEAP of CMT and Freud blades, all laser cut blanks, nice and quiet and only cost $20 to sharpen...I can never stress enough to folk starting out, to spend as much as you can and learn as much as you can ABOUT the tool before using it willy nilly...I've seen way to many accidents in my 40 years in the Timber business...sorry for the rant, but I feel strongly about this stuff. Cheers
Jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beserkleyboy

Saw Tip Angles Explained
Cheers guys,
Jim in South Coast NSW

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Hi Jim, thanks however the link you posted seems to not display the images (is it just me?) so I can't tell what kind of angle I'm supposed to look for.

So I figured I would add some images to this post to see if I get what you guys are saying.

Below are two blades sold as steel and stainless blades that seem to have a positive angle. And the one from Bosch with a negative or 0 angle. Is this correct?

What is your take on the two first blades?

Also, what do you make of "multi-material" blades like the last one posted? That angle seems to be odd.

Regards,

Attachment 26219

Attachment 26220

Attachment 26221

Attachment 26222

Mate, #s 1,2 &4 are not MADE of stainless steel, they are for cutting stainless steel. Stainless steel is not used for the blade's blank. Some, like CMT, 'Chrome Coat' some of their blades for rust resistance, sort of like a dull chrome plating..#4 is the 'universal' cut anything blade,(meaning, in reality that it does not do any job well...). It is designed to be used to cut through materials that may have nails embedded, metal parts or flashings attached etc. Notice on 3 & 4 the small gullet with a 'bump' after it. This common on metal cutting blades. It keeps the blade from grabbing the hard material too aggressively, which will cause problems. #1 is the closest to what you might want for a chop saw or RAS. The 'hook angle' is the slope of the face of the carbide tip relative to the radius of the blade. So, draw a line parallel with the face of the tooth and compare it to the radius of the blade. #s 3 & 4 have negative hook, and are for stationary chop /mitre saws, cutting metal. #s 1 & 2 have perhaps 5 deg forward hook and for cutting metal in circular saws or table saws.
What are your uses? What materials and of what thickness do you cut? What make and model of tools do you have? Where are you located? If you can help with the details, I happy to make recommendations for you, as it is a real minefield these days trying to select saw blades! Cheers
Jim
30 yr expat in AUS

I respond to threads without enough information of what the intent is. But I did mention in my reply earlier the crosscut and the rip, if anyone know anything about saws they would already know I was referring to wood. The brown stuff. I forget today there are blades designed to cut metal and as the 4th blade you posted can be used for that. It is all in the design and the insert that is brazed on it. This blade will not do a great job on wood even if it says it will. It also says it will cut plastics, I would be very surprised if it did a good job. Plastic get hot and starts to melt with nothing but disastrous outcome. I have seen some videos of chaps cutting steel, flat and angle stock with good results. I think it might be worth a try but first I would need to clean all the wood dust up. With the sparks generated it would be very easy to have a shop fire and burn your equipment up.
Safety First
Nelson

Hi all,

I might have added some unintended confusion. I don't assume the blades are SS. I want to cut 304 Stainless bar stock using my miter saw. And I noticed that these manufacturers make blades for either Circular (up to 230mm / 9") blades or stationary chop saw (355mm or 14") blades. I, have both a circular saw and a wood Miter saw of 254mm / 10" dimensions. What I want to do is take the first blade (the one meant for cutting SS) which has a 230mm / 9" size and use it in my miter saw.

That same blade is available in the 355mm / 14" stationary chop saw for metal, which I assume is more stable\, possibly flexes less since it does not swing around to cut miters. However, from looking at videos from the manufacturers, they cut in the same manner as my miter saw (except using a stationary chop saw) with the caveat that the RPM is lower as not to exceed the Blade's specifications (ie 1400 RPMs for 12", 3000 or so for 10", and up to 5000 for 9").

I hope that I have removed the ambiguity. As for location, I would ideally buy from either the .UK, .FR or .DE amazons, or anywhere in the EU is fine if you have recommendations for sellers.

CHeers,

Try a 254mm angle grinder cut off wheel.

Mate, that clears things up! Yes you can use the circular saw 9"in the 10" mitre saw. But, be aware that the positive hook angle, even if only 5 deg of #1 yellow & 2 blue, can tend to lift and potentially self feed, which could cause problems. If your mitre saw is a SLIDING type, do not use that function, but use only as stationary chop saw, like a metal cutting chop saw. Those blades will try to cut very fast! The #3 & 4 will do a better overall job. The negative hook angle coupled with the feed limiting/anti kickback 'bumps', will keep the cutting rate controlled to what the blade is capable of (in metal), and keep you safer. Hope that helps. My best bet would be to visit a shop that sells metal cutoff saws and take advice. Or find local metal fab shops, especially those that do stainless railings and do the same. Users will probably have better practical advice than seller's in my experience. Hope this helps. Cheers
Jim in very rainy South Coast NSW, Australia

made2hack
I would buy the smaller of the blades and put it through the tests to see how it preforms. I do not think a store would be too glad to take back a expensive blade that has been misused. I am a sceptic when it come to some claims. I have cut steel roofing and thin gauge material but never have I tried to cut .250 thick cold roll steel. I've seen video where they have cut cold roll steel with a chop saw and the only thing about a skil saw you do not have the stability and that would have my attention. Please let me know the results you have with it. I know what pain a hacksaw is but I've cut my share with one.
Good luck
Nelson

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beserkleyboy

Well put Frank,
Yes, storing blades with or near their machine is the best and safest way to go. In big shops, workers are trained to use the right tools for the machine. Too many hobby woodworking magazines tell the punters to 'make this or that flash rack to hold ALL your sawblades in 1 place!' And BTW, arbor size is not something randomly selected by manufacturers. One reason is to keep people from using the wrong blade on the wrong tool. Their are a few crossovers, like the one the OP is in trouble with; namely the 1" chop saw and 1" industrial table saw. Most handheld circular saws and most table saws designed to be used by NOT professionals or in an industrial environment, have 5/8" arbor. The big problem is that now there are so many different types of tools pitched at so many markets, that confusion will occur.
And just BTW, most 10" table saws with that pissy little 5/8' arbor would perform much better with 1"!! My Taiwan Wadkin clone is a sliding table, Tilting arbor 12" with 1" arbor and I have a HEAP of CMT and Freud blades, all laser cut blanks, nice and quiet and only cost $20 to sharpen...I can never stress enough to folk starting out, to spend as much as you can and learn as much as you can ABOUT the tool before using it willy nilly...I've seen way to many accidents in my 40 years in the Timber business...sorry for the rant, but I feel strongly about this stuff. Cheers
Jim

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Well put Jim!
I also strongly agree with the best you can afford for the job most done. An all rounder is just that "ok for the tasks".
As well as a GP blade I purchased a 90 tooth($100) TC blade for my then new (1970's) makita mitre saw and it served me well, until i lent it to a friend (structural landscaper) for making some furniture. Well, it came back with some serious cuts in the turntable. how? not sure but I think there was some grunge under the turntable & he forced it to rotate or didn't loosen the handle enough. Spilt milk & a kind of an appology.Amazingly enough the blade ( not a triple chip) was unscathed but bluntened a little. (I should have given him a new 40 tooth GP blade instead.) I had it sharpened (at my expense) & the table is still usable.
Care must be taken when using such tools & the correct blade but also in my haste & fatigue I cut through a gal steel gutter nail (about 8mm or so dia) recently in some recycled truss timber. I knew the broken pin/nail was there and thought i had allowed enough for its length. Very costly exercise, without injury, as replacing Tungsten teeth is way more expensive than the bit of hardwood or the cost of sharpening.

We all know about PPE & dust extraction but we should be aware of the other serious hazzard; FATIGUE.

Ranald, doesn't it just rip your ration card when you try to help someone and it comes back to bite you...I loaned my Porter Cable 7529 plunge router to a local mate, a bit of a shipwright of sorts, on the basis that I'd seen some of his work and it showed some talent....I should have looked more closely at his workspace...anyhoo, after 2 months to do a 2hr job, I had to go collect it. It was summarily thrown in a box of old tools with MY bit sticking out....and chipped to buggery...last time that will happen...and yea, fatigue is the silent killer, particularly on our roads...gum trees stand still and cars tear in half...cheers
Jim (beautiful sunny day in Shoalhaven Heads, NSW)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beserkleyboy

Ranald, doesn't it just rip your ration card when you try to help someone and it comes back to bite you...I loaned my Porter Cable 7529 plunge router to a local mate, a bit of a shipwright of sorts, on the basis that I'd seen some of his work and it showed some talent....I should have looked more closely at his workspace...anyhoo, after 2 months to do a 2hr job, I had to go collect it. It was summarily thrown in a box of old tools with MY bit sticking out....and chipped to buggery...last time that will happen...and yea, fatigue is the silent killer, particularly on our roads...gum trees stand still and cars tear in half...cheers
Jim (beautiful sunny day in Shoalhaven Heads, NSW)

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To say "I will never lend again" probably would stretch the truth somewhat, but I doubt if i will ever lend my better, mostly carbatec bits, my 90's elu plunge router and my 80's lamello top. I first started with B & D domestic gear and as I expanded my skill (forget pun) my trusty b&d 's became backups for when brushes died or folks wanted to borrow. Love my 12" taiwanese Woodman w/- sliding table just need energy to balance my asperations. A bigger shed would be great but would have to be disciplined with offcuts etc. I'm Jack of all trades: master of little and will give it a go (with considerable thought). Cheers, I'd better go and make some dust.

Hi All,
thanks for your info and clarifications. When I do test the blades, I will post a video.


Thank you for helping me understand!

No worries, mate! Glad to be able to help. My step daughter reckons I should formally teach my informally learned woodcraft to pass on my knowledge....I don't really think my 'knowledge' is exceptional except maybe to her. I tell her, 'luv, I get the most satisfaction of helping you and the kids with your needs'...and my 12 year old grandson loves to come to Grampy's workshop and make projects. We've done slingshot from PVC pipe, can crushers from plywood, parachute launchers, cap guns and a few more. I get him on the 'putey looking up projects. He goes straight to YouTube...and a couple of years ago, found Grant Thompson and his channel, 'King of Random' , physics based projects from everyday materials. A real hoot! Once we agree on a project (that is appropriate for a 12 yr old), we copy and/or draw in SketchUp. Then a materials list is printed in Word and saved in a file in Documents...trying to impress the 'traditional' chronicling/filing/archiving methods of info gathering...and it seems to be working...he is amazed at how much shyte I have and how easy it is to find....and his mum is more concerned that I won't pass on my knowledge, go figure...! After that, it's down to the workshop (about 28 steps from the back door..to suss out what, if any materials are in hand...and materials (wood) I got...like Dexion racking 7.5m wide x 3.6 m high x 2.4 m deep, FULL of sheet goods and timber from 15 years as a specialty plywood merchant in Sydney...and then it's off to Bunnings (AUS equal to Lowes/Home Depot for the rest. And back home to do the project. All up, it consumes a weekend (that they have come over from the bush to my place on the coast). And the finished goods are presented, usually on the Sunday arvo, and usually to great applause. A good time is had by all...and then he usually asks...'hey grampy, what do ya reckon we can do next time?' I tell him to keep looking for stuff and send me the links, which he does! Thanks for listening to this tale., I know it's a bit long and off topic , but the majority here have grandkids and hopefully can relate. One of our esteemed contributors, I forget who, has a nice postscript about 'what we know alone is enhanced by what we know together' and ain't that the truth...cheers guys, and thank you all for your daily inspirations.
Jim in a beautiful Nov day in sunny South Coast NSW