What would be your dream build

If it didn't cost much money but could take a lot of your time what would be your dream tool to build?
I currently have several projects going but am thinking what would be my number one dream build
I was thinking maybe a super spacer or a rotary table combo. that would be interesting since I have neither a rotary table nor a super spacer and am always needing one or the other not sure I would want to sacrifice some of my materials for a build like that right now
so maybe after I finish my folding break I might think about a 7 ft 10 ga shear the thing about that is it would be a grand for the knives alone not conducive to my way of thinking.
the wife has been on me about my needing a radial arm drill in the range of an 8" column 3 ft arm and 3 HP . I have materials I could dedicate to that
then there s my Toro diesel powered Z master that I am wanting to turn into a skid steer.
I just don't know
what would be some dream tools you guys would build for your own if you didn't need to spend a lot of money just a lot of time?

This isn't prioritized or in any kind of order. Offline, I'm working on a post how I prioritize projects. That list has many dozen if and when...
None of these are high investment of material, some not equipped to undertake individually, all have some role making this shop 'run'.
They would improve ability to progress through projects, and generate salable products. Reality says building some of these is impractical, others can be had in no other way. Very worthwhile looking for commercially produced machines/ equipment to bridge or re-purpose into that gap.

Replacement box column, Fosdick 3MT Production drill

Finish lathe travel rest
Sliding Bed adapter for turret attachment
Toolholder racks
2" Gravity or air powered bar feed
Lathe chuck rack

2 rolling doors
2 large mobile floor fans
solarization of 110v lighting & power
Dock board for west door
Hot water boiler heating throughout, 375k BTU
Attachment 19456

Re-power inactive 11"x 4' radial drill [was line driven], L-table and floor plate
Re-power 24" shaper [also line driven]
Combination Weld platen & Plasma cutter
Small tooling crane mounted to die shelving
Mobile Lift table for 30" vertical & 48" horizontal rotary tables, or 6-10t bridge crane
Press brake 10ga x 80"
Slip roll 12ga x ?
Coffin sleeper, lift gate, crane bed & stabilizers for flat bed

I guess you only have to decide which of the projects to start on first. logic would say the doors primarily for ventilation and security.
Solarization of lighting and power will require making a spread sheet of use applications then configure total installed load factor in start up loading such as power tools computers printer possibly a fridge and anything else. figure total daily consumption in KW this would give an approximation of the amount of reserve storage you would need for at least a 48 hr period. Traction batteries are best such as those found in forklifts Also forget about starting out with a 12 v DC system 24 is only moderately better. 48 v is the most efficient in terms of inverter and charge controller sizing. this also allows for lower amperage draw from the storage cells. 48 v is also better for inrush current loads the inverter will have to convert from DC to ac.
Forget about a modified wave inverter also. even though most things will run on them things like 9 inch rt angle grinders will trip a 3500 watt inverter where as an 1800 watt pure sine with a large transformer will have enough overload cap for the grinder to start and run.. Many of the better inverters can be paralleled just like your batteries also they can be stacked to deliver the split phase 220
If you want to get really adventurous make your own inverter a toridal transformer with around 70 lbs of core will give you a 18 KW unit the issue then is a large enough bank of mosfets and card plus enough heat sink to keep things from melting.

One more note about solar.
My system I had on my RV was 1100 watt of panels and 16 golf cart batteries set up 12 v because that was what the 1800 watt Dimensions inverter happened to be set up for. the system ran our 23 cf fridge the coffee maker the TV 2 lap tops and lights at the same time the inverter had a 5 minute 3800 watt overlaod cap. as long as the coffee pot wasn't in brew mode I could use the nu-wave cooker or the toaster. or when only the tv and fridge were running I could use my band saw or the little 12 inch craftsman lathe I had. 1/2' drill motors or 5 inch grinders were no problem but the 9 inch grinder needed all of the inverter's power just to start then it would run fine.

IS you rdock board going to be spring loaded self leveling or hydraulic leveling?
Imade this lift with 2 dock levelers in it one on each end of the platform 2 forklifts at a time could load and unload from 2 trailers in an alley then drive in the door
If need be the platform could be raised with both loaded forklifts then a trailer driven under it
Attachment 19472
Attachment 19473

Attachment 19474

A. Combination Generator, Compressor & Vacuum Pump

B. Combination Reclining Chair, Laptop Rest, and Cup Holder with pockets for TV Remote and Phone

the combination Generator Air compressor & vacuum pump sounds interesting
also quite doable the one obstetrical to overcome would be voltage and HZ stability when the compressor was pumping to do this obviously the engine would need to be sized large enough to handle full load of both without significant RPM fluctuation the AVR in most inverter style generators can can do a pretty good job of maintaining stable pure sine but until you get in the 25 and above KW range the engines are sized too close to the HP requirements of the generator to handle the added power requirements of an air compressor of any significant size. if you need it to be able to run something like a 3/4" impact wrench
if you are only needing to power your house in case of an emergency then a a small 8 KW generator with a 2 cylinder diesel would be sufficient the engine could be adjusted for an additional 3 to 6 HP without long term harm to the engine and a compressor head from a 6 HP portable gas drive compressor could be belt driven the unloader valve would take care of cutting out the compressor when the storage tank is full.
a vacuum pump from a Ford 7.3 IDI engine with a small 1 gallon tank would handle things like pulling a vacuum on refrigeration and air conditioning systems
B for the recliner combo scout used air craft auctions for the fold down arm rest furniture from the business & first class seats of many airlines you can get them in both left and right side configurations attach them to a lazy-boy then re upholster to suit

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Originally Posted by Frank S

IS you dock board going to be spring loaded self leveling or hydraulic leveling? I made this lift with 2 dock levelers in it one on each end of the platform 2 forklifts at a time could load and unload from 2 trailers in an alley then drive in the door
If need be the platform could be raised with both loaded forklifts then a trailer driven under it

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I'll do a drawing on the access ramp project. Its to enable road vehicles enter from street level at grade across sidewalk. Been thinking how to close threshold under rolling door. I think the angle needs 18' run for loads to clear raised door, and truncate at the inside 'jamb'. A second hinged ramp would connect grade and truncate end. Like a lift gate or WWII landing craft ramp, just not olive drab, 11 tons, or any opposing troops! Same exterior wall, east as post #2, Attachment 19520

Different than load ramp, also needed eventually. I'd thought of articulating ramps, there were some removed from a warehouse, too $$ intense for rare use. Instead, a portable board with rectangular forklift eyes. When building was erected, truck-beds were lower. Sometime back the rear of the structure was torn down and a concrete ramp poured from existing floor to modern flatbed height, it's 20' long and 8' wide. West wall redone in cinder block and rollup door. I have a pair of bolt-on sturdy rubber stops, and vertical ladder dockside for the driver.
I like the Kuwaiti solution but haven't their deep pockets. Be nice though, preserve flat floor when truck isn't indoors...Hate to guess cost of excavation, cylinders, pump, hoses, hinge, locks and switchgear to level 60 or 70k lbs.

At one of the new retail big box establishments that was being built in Kuwait they had a similar requirement limited vehicle access to the inside of the building plus the need for dock high unloading the floor was about half a meter above street level too high for a simple approach drive apron given the minimum required set back and too low and too short to pit a dock ramp for the same reasons. My solution was to have the contractors pour a recessed pit under 3 of the doors then We manufactured 3 8 meter long 3.5 meter wide hydraulic ramps which when all the way down allowed traffic to drive in or out or when raised to full height they became loading docks when at rest level they formed the seal for the doors and the lower part emulated the look of the slab You couldn't tell from outside when the doors closed that there was even a possible way to access the building.

I still have the drawings for hte 8 meter units but never made jpegs of them these are of a 2 x 3 meter ramp the application would be the same only scaled

Attachment 19518 Attachment 19519

One of the things I have been thinking about doing as I build my shop is since I have plenty of room the shop will only be built moderately above grade no need to pad up for dock high use which would be limiting for many of the things I might do anyway. I have a 40 flatbed trailer that is beyond practical highway use so have been thinking about removing the tandems and the DOT bar making a half moon foot hinge for that end then pour a footing for the landing legs then I will be able to raise it to van height or lower it to lowboy height for moving equipment of vehicles on and off the trailers. it already has a 1/4" steel deck and for safety I can add extensions and or wheel rub rails on both sides. I would be outside and away from the building as well.

Some more of your good ideas, Frank S. Thanks. I like to think my constant revisiting of priorities welds the scattered brain together. The passing of Irma reminded me of the necessity for a generator which can interface with my home electric system. Although a small generator, sufficient to power the refrigerator and the TV, was adequate, we were very lucky to have damage limited to landscaping. Full power was restored in less than 24 hours and sufficient fuel could have become a problem quickly. Many of my neighbors have more substantial generating power. One has a solar system as well as a propane powered generator. As comfortable as we were, we were not prepared for a long power outage.

Although I have a lot to learn, my dream build is now a fully integrated emergency home electric generating system.

Komo, The proper switch-gear for a fully integrated home generation system would be one of the top priority items of such a build. the second would be if you have any load requirements which would require uninterrupted power another words anything that absolutely cannot be without power even for a second. On the very top of that list of these items would be critical life support equipment. Almost everything else while inconvenient to have to restart would not be completely devastating. However many items within a household can benefit from individual UPS systems which would also aid in lowering the initial start up loading of a self contained home generation system. such as having the home security system and any home computer equipment on a separate UPS will protect them from any power surge due to fluctuation in generator output, plus lower the inrush current a generator will be subjected to at initial take over from the grid. Having programmed time delayed circuits which would prevent such things as the HVAC water heater and refrigerator from all starting at once is another option. Also during emergency power outages such as those during a hurricane it my be a good practice not to even have the HVAC or hot water heater running at all since they are huge power hogs. Will add more later as Right now I have a couple other things which must be attended to .

I'd like a complete firewood heating solution. Starting with harvesting trees on the property, then limbing, bucking, sawing, chopping (log skid plus firewood processor). Then stacking and loading, preferably into a large closet attached to the outside of the house, and openable inside near the woodstove. From there, a large ash vacuum, housed in an outdoor closet, with the nozzle accessible inside the house in a closable little cubby (like a central vacuum, but only for one access point). Then the ash has to be moved from the vacuum canister, into a metal ash can where it sits for months to extinguish. Then in the summer, the cold ashes need to be scattered.

Jon one of the things you mentioned the ash removal via vacuum system can be accomplished providing there is sufficient space under the fire pot.of the furnace. First off a self feeding wood furnace using pelletized wood makes life a lot easier although adds at least 2 processes to your build plan more on that later.
for ash removal and combustion control a variable speed blower installed connected to a tuyere and a bypass tube could function like this the air would be provided through a center pipe within the tuyere allowing for ash to fall around it through the tuyere to the elbow at the bottom the clean out as well as the tuyere would have closeable gates the blower bypass would be routed into an expansion chamber with teh tube from the clean out located inside extending into the chamber almost to the outtake of the chamber when air flowis forced into the expansion chamber and out the outtake this would create a venturi thus creating a vacuum drawing the ash into the air stream to be carried out and be deposited into a receptacle much like the function of a shop vac. or dust collection system.
Now for the furnace the fire pot would be encased within an outer well insulated shell increasing the combustion chamber efficiency by retaining radiant heat within. the combustion process would be fed by wood pellets which can be metered for flow demand the exhaust gas of the combustion chamber is the main heat source to heat the house which would be routed through a heat re claimer or heat exchanger how ever you want to name it. also with a well insulated shell if the heat is to be ducted through out the house fan forced air would cause the circulation
now since we do not want to consume the oxygen from the air from within the house the blower under the furnace will require its own fresh air source. which may come from outside of the house via ducts or if the furnace is located in the garage or basement providing these are not sealed as the house is air may be drawn directly form these areas
in Lew of wanting to circulate heated air throughout the house recirculated oil water or steam radiators could be installed requiring additional plumbing and possibly a condenser and pumps.
To me a system such as this would be really nice due to the possibility of making it a duel or triple fueled system by adding either or, and or a gas and oil burner system

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Originally Posted by Frank S

Komo, The proper switch-gear for a fully integrated home generation system would be one of the top priority items of such a build. the second would be if you have any load requirements which would require uninterrupted power another words anything that absolutely cannot be without power even for a second. On the very top of that list of these items would be critical life support equipment. Almost everything else while inconvenient to have to restart would not be completely devastating. However many items within a household can benefit from individual UPS systems which would also aid in lowering the initial start up loading of a self contained home generation system. such as having the home security system and any home computer equipment on a separate UPS will protect them from any power surge due to fluctuation in generator output, plus lower the inrush current a generator will be subjected to at initial take over from the grid. Having programmed time delayed circuits which would prevent such things as the HVAC water heater and refrigerator from all starting at once is another option. Also during emergency power outages such as those during a hurricane it my be a good practice not to even have the HVAC or hot water heater running at all since they are huge power hogs. Will add more later as Right now I have a couple other things which must be attended to .

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Oner terrible mistake a lot of home owners do when having an emergency back up generating system is to be lulled into a false seance of security thinking that just because they have a state of the art fully integrated fully autonomous system which is supposed to function anytime there is a power failure is to believe this system never needs attention. First off the switch gear which will disconnect the mains start up the generator run it up to stable voltage and HZ then connect it to the house loads needs to have tests conducted on it as per manufactures or installers recommendations the generator itself should be started and brought up to operating temperature on a regular basis it should also be placed under load and brought up to full rated capacity periodically either by applying loads from within the house or an external load bank or at the very least once a year. these tests may be combined and a data log needs to be recorded. 2 other things about home generators are #1 just because not many hours will be put on these units doesn't mean the oil and filters don't need to be changed oils will gradually lose their additives over time and can even create corrosive acids using synthetics helps as well as adding in stabilizers but they still need changed at least once a year no matter if there is only 10 testing hours put on them during that period. An air filter can absorb moisture and attract air born dust particles even when the engine is not running. If the generator is not housed in an out building or its own cabinet the breather element should be changed every 2 years unless subjected to a dusty environment such as the desert then it should be changed more frequently. #2 fuels Natural gas generators hard lined into the service line need only to be maintained with the regular tests as mentioned above the oil and filters still require regular maintenance as already stated.
Diesel fuel has a longer storage life than gasoline but it does not last forever 20 year old diesel maybe but not the ultra low sulfur sold today. About 1 to possibly 2 years would be stretching it. Gasoline bought at discount stores can can start to go bad within a month or 2. always spend the extra money to buy the higher grade of gasoline when ever possible.
that pretty much covers most o tit for now but I do have other tips and recommendations which would be germane to particular system designs.