When do we get part 3. You’ve got me hooked now:lol:
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When do we get part 3. You’ve got me hooked now:lol:
Shape of the disguised R2D2, known only as "Sealed Unit", might also be grooved for a seal with a Dremel fitted to a saddle with guides that ride the contours. There are examples within HMT.net, naturally. I'm at a loss for a search term, but it was demonstrated on vertically split motorcycle engine cases.
When I took apart my old Kenmore front loader because of a leak, the plastic shell was a 2 part assembly held together by many bolts. It had a gasket in a grove to seal the parts together. That giant O-ring was the source of the leak.
Thanks for the tips and encouragement, you guys -
'tho I get concerned over all the violent feelings home appliances seem to stir up.
For all these poor souls, you might not yet have seen this video from (the late) Aussie50*?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq6T5BojXc8
For other instant gratification- & pleasure-seeking readers: Pt 4 will be on hold a few days, as I'm waiting for the parts package.:D
Cheers
Johan (who is in no way affiliated with the Wurlitzer-prize nominated novel:"Zen and the art of Washing Machine maintenance")
About Ed Jones/ Aussie50: https://www.austech.info/showthread....uot-Jones-Dead
I don’t know much about the acid or alkali resistance of cheap RTV but I do know that it comes in two types, one type is acid based and the other is alkali based. If you apply the wrong one, (alkali), to an aluminium joint it will eat away at the metal and the seal won’t last very long. If you apply the acid one to a sealed electrical box, the acid fumes released during curing will corrode the electrical connections.
That casting looks something like one of the variety of valve bodies. Escaping unscathed, with a preference for only aerated fluids there on out.