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Thread: 28" wood / coal forge build

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  1. #1
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotsman Hosie View Post
    Jesus, Frank — you da man! There's some serious vision, design, and engineering went into putting that together. Not anything like I'm used to seeing in a "wheel forge."
    I went overboard in some areas and underboard in others.
    One thing I would have done differently had I taken the time to think it through while I was building it is the way the iris blades are connected.
    At the start while figuring out their placement shape and pivoting at first I had thoughts of simply extending a flat tab out from the end of them but they go through more than 90° of rotation, this would have required some seriously long slots in the perimeter of the toyere housing up next to the bottom of the forge. Had I done it that way it would have been next to impossible to get a reasonable enough air seal in order for the blower to be able to deliver enough air through the bottom of the forge to create a good burn.
    Now looking back at it I see it would have been much easier for me to have not mounted their pivots to the forge bottom which inturned caused me to have to make the gilflirted offset control rods so I could make them rotate concentrically to the mounting studs.
    Once I struck upon the idea of utilizing the 2nd smaller rim as the housing after I cut out the center I had to figure out how to go from a 9 inch diameter hole down to say 3 1/2 inches for the ash drop and the air delivery this was when I cam upon the idea of inverting the center and welding it back in place but I wanted it to have a continuous inward slope which meant forging it to a cone shape, I think this turned out well in keeping with how I wanted the results to be, the gradual deep cone shape will insure good ash flow downwards the guide sleeves for the iris rods and will allow minimal air leakage.
    Where I went radically overboard is in the complexity of the stupid build. first off the mounting of the toyere housing could have just as easily been accomplished with only 3 tabs and 3 bolts I elected to use 6 tabs and 12 bolts simply because I could and besides how else am I ever going to use up over 400 lbs of 3/8 nuts in my life time given that I am not currently involved in production manufacturing any more .
    I could have as easily used 7/16 , 1/2" ,5/8 or even 7/8" nuts as I probably have similar quantities of those as well.
    After looking at this thing what I could have done was to have mounted the iris blades on a long straight stem then used a loner sleeve and had them mounted to the housing itself this would have greatly simplified the build and if I find out later on the offset stems give me problems it will be easy enough to modify
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    baja (Jun 1, 2020), Scotsman Hosie (May 26, 2020), Sleykin (Jun 1, 2020)

  3. #2
    Supporting Member Scotsman Hosie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    I went overboard in some areas...
    Happens to me all the time — unless I happen to catch myself. Simpler is just about always better. But you tend to get into the Tao of the hands-on build — which is 90% of the pleasure. And I've rarely cranked out anything that didn't suggest any number of possible improvements. Same excuse — using stuff on hand.

    Still, it's vicariously fulfilling — to see the finished product, being created by cut, weld, and wire. Still watchin'.

  4. #3
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotsman Hosie View Post
    And I've rarely cranked out anything that didn't suggest any number of possible improvements.'.
    Such was the case today as I had stated about the offset stems on the iris blades. Individually or moving a couple of them at the same time was simple enough however I noticed there was quite a bit of resistance getting all of the stems perfectly concentric to the blade mounting pivots was going to be a royal pain. Every thing was just too ridged even with reasonably slack tolerances hole to stem diameters was not going help much plus if for any reason I needed to disassemble the unit it would mean I would have to remove 28 nuts loose the adjustment of the blade positions before I could remove the housing then 12 more nuts to remove all of the blades if I wanted to remove all of them .
    Did I mention I might own stock in Hillman fasteners/
    Anyway I did need to disassemble the thing to clean out some welding slag lodged under the blades. So I have decided to go ahead and change the stems and the mounting of the blades to a less ridged method of mounting plus at the same time the mod will negate the need to disassemble anything other than simply removing the housing mounting nuts And yes I am keeping all 12 of them more because I like the looks of it even though they are under the bottom and no one will see them
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    Scotsman Hosie (May 27, 2020)

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