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I no longer have a Sunnen hone set but needed to clean up the insides of a couple of cylinders 1 was a 3 inch the other a 6 inch. I have a 2Inch ball hone but wasn't about to spend the money to buy both a 3" and a 6" for a 1 time use But I have a new Lisle 2to 7" stone glaze breaker so I made an extension for that
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Thanks Frank S! We've added your Hone Extension Shaft to our Machining category,
as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hone-extension-shaft"> <img src="/uploads/251142/homemade-hone-extension-shaft.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hone-extension-shaft">Hone Extension Shaft</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Frank+S">Frank S</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/honing'>honing</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I like the disc supports. I'm pretty sure without them you would end up with an out of round bore at least part way through. I will remember this Frank.
Yes, very good intermediate support, guaranteed it would whip under load and/ or RPM.
Especially with honing in a different county than motor driving it.
PS; edit in. Supports work in lathes too, with proportionally thin material in the spindle [spindle liner/ bushings] and outboard with rolling supports, often simple as V-cut pieces of wood.
yes correct, it is next to impossible to control a flexible shaft stone glaze breaker any distance from the motor source without guides.Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko
Nylon or UHMW plastic or plywood makes the best medium for disks in this application
However all I needed to do to the bores on the 2 hydraulic cylinders was to remove any stuck deposited bits of the crumbled seals and any light rust scale that may have formed inside the bores from possible contaminated oil. The cylinders were mostly empty of oil but even still having the hoses connected moisture from the air could have entered and this crane has been laying out exposed to the elements for the past 6 years
word of warning when spinning small diameter long pieces in a lathe if they extend beyond the back end of the spindle. It is nice to have either a bushing the size of the spindle bore to fit the part or a chuck or just 3 simple grub screws spaced equidistant around the end of the spindle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolmaker51
if their diameter is small enough then probably should have some support even if they only reach halfway to the end of the bore.
any shafts extending very far out the back end of the lathe needs some form of support .
Like Tool maker 51 stated sometimes just a V block will suffice. If high RPMs are involved then it needs full containment. Think whip stock . sometimes more than one support may be warranted. When things go wrong on a lathe they don't go wrong right now they go wrong long before right now almost as if pushing time backwards enough for the effects to slap you in the head before it actually happens.
Bushings for spindle bore, or "liners" need not be complicated or numerous.
Unless very small material, 2 make a good set. One rides behind chuck, the other pulls along with material. Quite easy to pull out by opening the jaws, stub can chuck up without them. Through a collet, it's easier to push or blow out. I guess a length of cord would do as well.
Smaller stock runs fine in them, either bored to size [numerous] or with 3 or 4 small set screws to tie material and it together. Most will find 4 easier to adjust. Outside diameter of liner can be about .005 under spindle diameter, and about 1 diameter in length to not bind when being advanced or removed.
Push a rag through beforehand and proceed work with one less concern.
This cabinetmaker/carpenter uses bits of wood for many of these situations. Spindle bore is easy enough to make a bung and drill a hole. Same for V blocks. Surprising how accurately you can make up jigs and fixtures out of Baltic Birch. Takes threads well to. Just tap to 100% thread depth. Holds better than a screw actually. Necessity and desperation make for some innovation sometimes!
Plus I'm not properly trained as a machinist. I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well. Never cease to make me think.
Might surprise you (and others) knowing an animal such as "properly trained machinist" to be rare like hens teeth.Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko
Even a 4 year apprentice, with high expertise in that controlled environment, will be less competent 'outside'. A captive shop, working for a parent outfit, is far less creative than a job shop is compelled to be; therefore really the only way to get well rounded.
I suspect a vast majority of the population here demonstrate broad experience, representing that 'everyday a different project', under such circumstances.
As an individual, nothing pleases like hearing statements like your [I]I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well....[I]
and especially with Never cease to make me think.
No one knows everything about it, has every resource, or ran every type of work! Some though, fail to admit.
What was the shaft material. It looks like 3/4" EMT, that you put reducers on the end for the drill and hone.
I assume you put a bunch of oil in to lubricate the hone and float the solids away from the stones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolmaker51
Actually I have a friend that is a tool and die maker. Started out in many facets of machining and ended up incredibly rounded out.
So yes I understand that there are different grades of skill.
Same to be said of Cabinet Making. There are kitchen box jockey's. That's not true Cabinet making. There is Carpentry but even that has been grossly compartmentalised. How many Carpenters can build stairs and a roof anymore? There is Millwork for fixed building interiors and Joinery for furniture. But having training in all of that is akin to learning to be a full compass millwright welder, machinist and toolmaker.
Having done the full gambit of woodworking from a young age I never thought much of it until I learned that many people are severely limited. By themselves, mostly due to fear. My Dad and grandfather built from footing to roof and everything in between. I helped and I learned. I liked cabinetmaking more and went into that. Basically swearing off kitchens. ( 9 in 34 years ) I have done just about everything that a wood working person can do aside from log buildings and full timber frame buildings. Most types of furniture and curved work of many sorts and sizes.
Metal working I have always dabbled at. And now I am getting more serious about doing more of it. So I have been slowly buying up old used iron that is by chance all British made and again by chance all made by Elliot. My bandsaws are not. But two lathes and a milling machine are. A K.O. Lee surface grinder is in the works and a tool and cutter grinder by the same guys. I think I have a D-bit grinder as well. Still waiting. So getting setup correctly. Helped along by my retired tool and die guy. Who really isn't retired just working more slowly!
I read what you guys post and see a few on here that are truly gifted craftsmen. And I appreciate your time and your explanations. There are more than have chimed in on this thread. But I think they know who they are. A lot of us have a slightly different bent and that works. You need that. Why else pout so much time into things most average people will never even dream of attempting!
The shaft is very old stock 1" cold rolled round bar My guess either 1018 or 1026Quote:
Originally Posted by metric_taper
If you don't use liberal amounts of oil for even just knocking off any possible surface rust or trash from deteriorated seals you might as well to get ready and replace the stones or at least true them up again.
For this type of bore clean up I would have preferred to use bead hones but simply could not justify the cost.
If the bores had been pitted scored or dented I would have had to enlarge them or taken other measures
I have always considered the ultimate use for wood to be a source of heat in a fire place or stove. It may go through many transformations prior to that though as houses furniture fine cabinetry etc. growing up we lived on my grandpa's farm . He had a small wood working shop where he made things such as entry doors for churches podiums for the chicken eating fire & brimstone gloom and doom shouting preachers, also made the first cabinet for the Curtis Mathes stereo color tv thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko
Once when I was still quite small I happened to notice the door to his shop open he was inside rubbing and polishing on a pair to decoratively huge carved and inlayed doors. I asked him what he was doing.
His reply was I'm making firewood.
Looks like doors to me I said.
Maybe for now but 50 or 100 or possibly 200 years from now these doors will become what trees are actually put on this Earth for. which is to provide heat to keep someone warm.
Well in that case how do you know when you are finished making your firewood doors, or the cabinets you make?
They are never finished I just keep sanding rubbing and polishing until someone takes them away and asks me to make something else, he said.
All that being said I once made kitchen cabinets for a house we were living in. Built in place from scratch, not of those ill fitting box store things. The uppers were easy no drawers just a bunch of 1x12 and 1x2s plus the doors. But if I ever make another set of uppers they will be done on a table or saw horses. running a router from a step stool is no fun
Fire is the ultimate get even when the wood doesn't listen to you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
I have made over 150 passage doors. Including some for churches. Some heavier than me and I weigh 240lbs. Your Grandpa was a thinker.
As a 20 year old I had the privilege to work on a saw mill for about 6 months. And I was eager to learn and the sawyer took me under his wing. Turns out most decent saw logs up here are in the 300 to 400 years old range. Things grow more slowly because of the shorter growing season. Texas rarely gets below freezing and frozen ground doesn't happen. Where I am is close to Ottawa Canada. We get frozen ground two to three feet deep here in the winter. Kind of drops the hammer on plant growth for about 5 months of the year if you count fall. We have ground frost from about mid to late November to April when there can be the remaining frozen ground doing it's thing. Wrecks havoc on the roads. I guess in Texas you have rainy and dry season does similar things to the trees. I drove through Dallas Fort Worth and then down to Brownsville and the up the coast to Houston in 1982 I think. It was record cold what ever year it was. My Dad wanted to see the sites in Texas and took us along for a ride. 5 days to get to Brownsville. Imagine no tablets, no movies. Cards and the windows. My Dad always made me the navigator. So I had the map to. GP what? Give that to a 30 something and watch the consternation. Or a CNC jockey a manual lathe and say make this. Or give me a CNC machine same problem. But on a manual machine you can go from napkin sketch to part in a heck of a lot less time.
I'm quite partial to certified prints done on napkins as well. I once sold a $40,000.00 4 story 25 ton freight elevator to a guy I hardly knew while sitting at his dinner table after making a few sketches of what I thought he was wanting on a hand full of napkins took a 10 thousand dollar check and 5 k in cash for materials . drove the 700 miles home and built it using little more than those preliminary sketches to go by. back then I didn't have a computer to do cad drawings on it was either a drafting board and pencil with paper or forget the drafting board and use a spiral bound notebook
2 months later we knocked an interior wall down to get the 60 ft long uprights installed in the building. 10 years later he knocked the building down and built another one around the lift.
Well, being as they're certified, why not?
Other end of spectrum, Dad wanted a large room addition. He was general contractor but intended it DIY for himself, and a few periodic helpers.
He [mostly] and his architectural engineer prepared full-on blueprints [late 70's era], bill of materials, plot survey results, utility clearances, all the completion schedules with list of permits etc, and submitted to City office.
They flipped, saying they'd NEVER seen such complete filing for private work; cocktail napkins and raggedy spiral bound pages being the norm.
Yep. I have done similar. I will remember certified napkin sketch. If you know what you are doing all you need is a memory aid and the dimensions. All is good after that.
Now gentlemen, let's not be knocking cocktail napkin design sketches. I can testify from personal experience that some of the key weapon details guarding the country during the cold war were initiated via same.
I can remember one cocktail waitress picking up a water-soaked napkin on which were inscribed a set of matrix equations for a Kalman filter*. She stared at it for a while and then asked, "Is this how they write in your country? It's kind of pretty."
For a long time after, "Is this how they write in your country?" became a stock jab whenever a presenter flashed a particularly complex presentation slide.
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* A mathematical tool for providing improved estimates of unknowns when some properties of the interfering noise are known.
So, if they were to ban cocktail napkins first, disarming is next?
As comic Gallagher said, we're the only country having a Department of Defense with first strike capabilities.
Don't worry guys, I'm no dove; just appreciative to well turned phrases.
The phrase that always tickled me was MAD (Mutual Assured Destruction). It was so scarily descriptive yet politicians used it without, I believe, ever understanding what it really meant.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolmaker51
The poignantly saddest thing is that it worked. We had the longest interval without a world war in the twentieth century because of it.
Agreed, however I think, not so different than Theodore Roosevelt's "Walk Softly, But Carry A Big Stick".
It lasted awhile, until lesser figures took the helm. If one desires to be the boss, they better have the implication or hint of power.
