9ft long hone extension shaft

[Frank S]

I no longer have a Sunnen hone set but needed to clean up the insides of a couple of cylinders 1 was a 3 inch the other a 6 inch. I have a 2Inch ball hone but wasn't about to spend the money to buy both a 3" and a 6" for a 1 time use But I have a new Lisle 2to 7" stone glaze breaker so I made an extension for that

[mwmkravchenko]

I like the disc supports. I'm pretty sure without them you would end up with an out of round bore at least part way through. I will remember this Frank.

[Frank S]

I like the disc supports. I'm pretty sure without them you would end up with an out of round bore at least part way through. I will remember this Frank.

yes correct, it is next to impossible to control a flexible shaft stone glaze breaker any distance from the motor source without guides.
Nylon or UHMW plastic or plywood makes the best medium for disks in this application
However all I needed to do to the bores on the 2 hydraulic cylinders was to remove any stuck deposited bits of the crumbled seals and any light rust scale that may have formed inside the bores from possible contaminated oil. The cylinders were mostly empty of oil but even still having the hoses connected moisture from the air could have entered and this crane has been laying out exposed to the elements for the past 6 years

[Frank S]

I'm quite partial to certified prints done on napkins as well. I once sold a $40,000.00 4 story 25 ton freight elevator to a guy I hardly knew while sitting at his dinner table after making a few sketches of what I thought he was wanting on a hand full of napkins took a 10 thousand dollar check and 5 k in cash for materials . drove the 700 miles home and built it using little more than those preliminary sketches to go by. back then I didn't have a computer to do cad drawings on it was either a drafting board and pencil with paper or forget the drafting board and use a spiral bound notebook
2 months later we knocked an interior wall down to get the 60 ft long uprights installed in the building. 10 years later he knocked the building down and built another one around the lift.

[Toolmaker51]

Yes, very good intermediate support, guaranteed it would whip under load and/ or RPM.
Especially with honing in a different county than motor driving it.

PS; edit in. Supports work in lathes too, with proportionally thin material in the spindle [spindle liner/ bushings] and outboard with rolling supports, often simple as V-cut pieces of wood.

[Frank S]

Yes, very good intermediate support, guaranteed it would whip under load and/ or RPM.
Especially with honing in a different county than motor driving it.

PS; edit in. Supports work in lathes too, with proportionally thin material in the spindle [spindle liner/ bushings] and outboard with rolling supports, often simple as V-cut pieces of wood.

word of warning when spinning small diameter long pieces in a lathe if they extend beyond the back end of the spindle. It is nice to have either a bushing the size of the spindle bore to fit the part or a chuck or just 3 simple grub screws spaced equidistant around the end of the spindle.
if their diameter is small enough then probably should have some support even if they only reach halfway to the end of the bore.
any shafts extending very far out the back end of the lathe needs some form of support .
Like Tool maker 51 stated sometimes just a V block will suffice. If high RPMs are involved then it needs full containment. Think whip stock . sometimes more than one support may be warranted. When things go wrong on a lathe they don't go wrong right now they go wrong long before right now almost as if pushing time backwards enough for the effects to slap you in the head before it actually happens.

[Toolmaker51]

Bushings for spindle bore, or "liners" need not be complicated or numerous.
Unless very small material, 2 make a good set. One rides behind chuck, the other pulls along with material. Quite easy to pull out by opening the jaws, stub can chuck up without them. Through a collet, it's easier to push or blow out. I guess a length of cord would do as well.
Smaller stock runs fine in them, either bored to size [numerous] or with 3 or 4 small set screws to tie material and it together. Most will find 4 easier to adjust. Outside diameter of liner can be about .005 under spindle diameter, and about 1 diameter in length to not bind when being advanced or removed.
Push a rag through beforehand and proceed work with one less concern.

[mwmkravchenko]

This cabinetmaker/carpenter uses bits of wood for many of these situations. Spindle bore is easy enough to make a bung and drill a hole. Same for V blocks. Surprising how accurately you can make up jigs and fixtures out of Baltic Birch. Takes threads well to. Just tap to 100% thread depth. Holds better than a screw actually. Necessity and desperation make for some innovation sometimes!

Plus I'm not properly trained as a machinist. I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well. Never cease to make me think.

[Toolmaker51]

This cabinetmaker/carpenter uses bits of wood <<sniped>> Necessity and desperation make for some innovation sometimes!

Plus I'm not properly trained as a machinist. I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well. Never cease to make me think.

Might surprise you (and others) knowing an animal such as "properly trained machinist" to be rare like hens teeth.
Even a 4 year apprentice, with high expertise in that controlled environment, will be less competent 'outside'. A captive shop, working for a parent outfit, is far less creative than a job shop is compelled to be; therefore really the only way to get well rounded.
I suspect a vast majority of the population here demonstrate broad experience, representing that 'everyday a different project', under such circumstances.

As an individual, nothing pleases like hearing statements like your [I]I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well....[I]
and especially with Never cease to make me think.
No one knows everything about it, has every resource, or ran every type of work! Some though, fail to admit.

[mwmkravchenko]

Might surprise you (and others) knowing an animal such as "properly trained machinist" to be rare like hens teeth.
Even a 4 year apprentice, with high expertise in that controlled environment, will be less competent 'outside'. A captive shop, working for a parent outfit, is far less creative than a job shop is compelled to be; therefore really the only way to get well rounded.
I suspect a vast majority of the population here demonstrate broad experience, representing that 'everyday a different project', under such circumstances.

As an individual, nothing pleases like hearing statements like your [I]I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well....[I]
and especially with Never cease to make me think.
No one knows everything about it, has every resource, or ran every type of work! Some though, fail to admit.

Actually I have a friend that is a tool and die maker. Started out in many facets of machining and ended up incredibly rounded out.

So yes I understand that there are different grades of skill.

Same to be said of Cabinet Making. There are kitchen box jockey's. That's not true Cabinet making. There is Carpentry but even that has been grossly compartmentalised. How many Carpenters can build stairs and a roof anymore? There is Millwork for fixed building interiors and Joinery for furniture. But having training in all of that is akin to learning to be a full compass millwright welder, machinist and toolmaker.

Having done the full gambit of woodworking from a young age I never thought much of it until I learned that many people are severely limited. By themselves, mostly due to fear. My Dad and grandfather built from footing to roof and everything in between. I helped and I learned. I liked cabinetmaking more and went into that. Basically swearing off kitchens. ( 9 in 34 years ) I have done just about everything that a wood working person can do aside from log buildings and full timber frame buildings. Most types of furniture and curved work of many sorts and sizes.

Metal working I have always dabbled at. And now I am getting more serious about doing more of it. So I have been slowly buying up old used iron that is by chance all British made and again by chance all made by Elliot. My bandsaws are not. But two lathes and a milling machine are. A K.O. Lee surface grinder is in the works and a tool and cutter grinder by the same guys. I think I have a D-bit grinder as well. Still waiting. So getting setup correctly. Helped along by my retired tool and die guy. Who really isn't retired just working more slowly!

I read what you guys post and see a few on here that are truly gifted craftsmen. And I appreciate your time and your explanations. There are more than have chimed in on this thread. But I think they know who they are. A lot of us have a slightly different bent and that works. You need that. Why else pout so much time into things most average people will never even dream of attempting!