bench saw stand

[Floradawg]

Okay, I cut the leg boards 21" long. It depends on the height of the finished stand and saw. Draw a simple diagram based on your saw. I wanted mine 36" because that was how tall my old saw is. I ripped half of the pieces to 3/4" narrower than the other half, or approximately 3" wide. I then glued them together with a butt joint. (see photos) I clamped them without any fasteners. When dry I sanded them on my disc sander to clean up the joints. Then I set the saw blade to about 9 degrees and cut the angle on each end. Be aware of the proper positioning of the leg before cutting the opposite angle. I left the saw blade at that angle for the remainder of the cutting. Next determine the dimensions of the boards for the saw base. Cut the angles on the end of the boards and then rip the angles on them. Rip one edge and then flip the board and rip the other edge so that the angles form a parallelogram rather than a trapezoid. These pieces are glued together as shown in the photos. Since two pieces are glued on the end grain, I drove a couple of drywall screws into them for extra strength. Drill clearance holes and pilot holes to keep from splitting the wood. I sanded the ends of the legs with the angle duplicated on my disc sander. If you do this just sand them lightly to clean up the saw cuts. I cut some pieces as shown in the photos to join the legs to the saw base. The dimensions are not important. I didn't want them to be visible but large enough to offer good support. Glue and screw with drywall screws. I added a couple of wood strips to the inside top of the long base pieces in case the screws that hold the saw in place would be close to the inner edge of the outer base pieces. I could have done without them. I cut and sanded some small wood blocks and glued them to the bottom ends of the legs to help hold the steel plates on the bottoms and also add strength to the legs at that end. I cut some angle iron down to obtain flat pieces for the plates at the ends of the legs. I drilled clearance holes for three drywall screws in each and also drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole for the adjusters. I didn't have any round stock big enough for the pads so I used some flat stock about 3/16" thick and cut some pieces and drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in the center of each. I slightly countersunk one side and screwed in a length of 1/4-20 stainless allthread and left it slightly protruding. I put on a hexnut and tightened it against the top side of the pad. The bottom side had the threaded rod sticking out about 1/16". I put it loosely in a vise around the hexnut and peened the rod into the countersink. I had cut them in an octagon shape and then chucked it in the lathe around the hexnut and anther one loosely on the other end and carefully turned them round. If you used round stock it would be much easier. I ground the peened end flat and glued on some black rubber gasket material and trimmed it around the perimeter. These ended up being installed in the bottom plates with a hexnut tightened on each side after adjusting for level. If you think 1/4-20 is a little small go up to 5/16.

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