V-block design is very important to the utility of the tool. A proper V-block like the one in the center in the photo has bolt-on, low-profile clamps that won't interfere with the milling machine or drill press chuck. Moreover, the clamps remain inboard of the sides so the block can be laid on its side with the workpiece still clamped as would be required if drilling orthogonal holes.
The less expensive block on the left is more commonly seen. It can't be laid on its side and the tall clamp interferes with everything. There isn't much one can do about laying it over but the obstructing clamp can be fixed. Shown in front is one of a pair of clamps I made; the other is shown mounted on the block on the right. Note the use of brass hold-down screws to prevent marring the workpiece.
Last edited by mklotz; 07-08-2017 at 03:32 PM.
Home Shop Freeware
Full agreement on cast style clamps. Once in awhile, needing to orient 90 from initial position, a less than perfect solution is perch twixt ground blocks. Your concept certainly answers the height issue. Commercial manufacturers tend to proprietary threads, preventing subbing a short set or cap screw. My treasured old Taft-Pierce's, the only bridge style worth their height still convert to flat strap when needed.
<*>*^[email protected]:-)! That's the triumphant rage smilie [pun intended] who drills and taps next size up - usually fine thread metric!
Last edited by Toolmaker51; 07-30-2016 at 02:42 PM. Reason: augmentation
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
Paul Jones (07-30-2016)
These are a great improvement over the extra-high original clamps and the dog point brass screw is a smart addition. I reproduced some of the clamping screws to a Starrett set of v-blocks similar to what you show on the left and had to make proprietary threads on the lathe just like Toolmaker51 mentioned. Your set will be a great addition to any shop. Thanks for sharing this.
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