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This is the short, 3 minute, version of my C-clamp fix without all the other methods I considered along the way.
I've had this broken C clamp sitting on my work table for 4+ years. Today I'm going to fix it or toss it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNfwjZJlo0Y
It is stronger than new.
I used a pin punch and it worked successfully
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Thanks tsbrownie! We've added your C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix to our Clamps category,
as well as to your builder page: tsbrownie's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-c-clamp-swivel-pad-fix"> <img src="/uploads/253080/homemade-c-clamp-swivel-pad-fix.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-c-clamp-swivel-pad-fix">C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tsbrownie_3">tsbrownie</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/c-clamp'>C-clamp</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/repair'>repair</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I've never thought of welding them, or using a washer to alter the hole size. Good show tsbrownie.
The clamps I have here are missing pads. They hang in the corner, waiting for "it's time" to fix them all. Easier to do multiples of alike pads than one at-a-time.
Machining is straight forward with a hole almost 2 diameters [of the ball] deep and somewhat larger diameter. Too tight, and the swivel action binds. Have used both ball end mills and plain old drill point for the bottom.
The open end needs decent thickness to retain forming the closure, not so thick requiring heavy blows. Before parting off, hack or band saw across the opening, in 2 cuts 90° apart.
To assemble, I don't oil them, graphite is better. Tighten the screw with pad in place, to a sturdy piece of plate, clamp body in a vise, right against underside of plate. Close the end more downward than from the side; just enough to hold, with firm, well placed hits. Some will use a rounded punch, others a ball peen.
Have repaired many clamps over the years, often those little 2 inchers. Good brands (US and Europe) make it worthwhile, they're of good malleable material. Pull out the screw and wire brush it, deburr internal threads of frame, straighten the screw & Tee handle, reassemble with that new pad!
Occasionally a frame is bent, that's more of a challenge due to shape of the forging. A heavy arbor press or at least 20T hydraulic is usually needed; with a handful of wedges and shims, to direct pressure in direction required.
To straighten bent clamps, it’s easy to heat them to red hot and allow the steel to normalise.