Captured allan bolt locking lever

**kutzbill** · Sep 7, 2017, 08:12 PM

This is why we can't have nice things.

**Okapi** · Sep 7, 2017, 01:51 AM

Just an idea for the ball seat, why not making it with the radius tool on a diameter which can be put in the hollowed part(bronze or steel heattreatable), fixed with Loctite or mechanically inside, the surface quality is better and it can be hardened, it is a solution too if you haven't the right mill diameter ?

**Metalmuncher** · Sep 7, 2017, 09:21 AM

Originally Posted by Okapi

Just an idea for the ball seat, why not making it with the radius tool on a diameter which can be put in the hollowed part(bronze or steel heattreatable), fixed with Loctite or mechanically inside, the surface quality is better and it can be hardened, it is a solution too if you haven't the right mill diameter ?

Seems like a good idea. Or at least maybe use a ball-end mill, if available, to get a smoother finish. I think I would want some grease in there as well.

**Frank S** · Sep 7, 2017, 09:13 PM

As I have mentioned in other posts a large part of my business was brought to me or sent to me or referred to me by other machine shops and fab shops in the area I sure didn't want those guys going to one of them looking for a job and making up some BS trying to use me as a reference the other shops did the same for me as well.
better shops do not compete against each other they compete with each other.

**Canobi** · Sep 8, 2017, 05:19 AM

I may go with your suggestion Okapi and put a lining in the cup for the bearing with my next one as I want to explore tempering at some point for a hobbing project down the road. I aspire to make tooling of Stefan Gotswinter calibre one day, but I'm still cutting my teeth as a noobie engineer/machinist, so keeping things to an attainable level to start with

Right now I'm currently working out my setup to drill the four concentric holes in the cup. My mill is still not up and running yet (waiting on a reamer) so will be using my lathe again.

The cross slide doesn't have enough travel to hold the broach shaft in a jacobs chuck, even the 4 jaw makes the cross slide overhang too far, so I've ordered a 12mm 2MT collet in order to bring the cup in close enough to work on.

**Metalmuncher** · Sep 8, 2017, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by Canobi

I may go with your suggestion Okapi and put a lining in the cup for the bearing with my next one as I want to explore tempering at some point for a hobbing project down the road. I aspire to make tooling of Stefan Gotswinter calibre one day, but I'm still cutting my teeth as a noobie engineer/machinist, so keeping things to an attainable level to start with

Right now I'm currently working out my setup to drill the four concentric holes in the cup. My mill is still not up and running yet (waiting on a reamer) so will be using my lathe again.

The cross slide doesn't have enough travel to hold the broach shaft in a jacobs chuck, even the 4 jaw makes the cross slide overhang too far, so I've ordered a 12mm 2MT collet in order to bring the cup in close enough to work on.

Hi. I have to ask, is that a piece of saw-slotted PVC pipe snapped onto your leadscrew? I concocted the exact same thing for when I use my 8" chuck, to keep the saddle away from moving in too close by accident. It does the job, and was quick and easy to make on a table saw.

**Canobi** · Sep 8, 2017, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by Metalmuncher

Hi. I have to ask, is that a piece of saw-slotted PVC pipe snapped onto your leadscrew? I concocted the exact same thing for when I use my 8" chuck, to keep the saddle away from moving in too close by accident. It does the job, and was quick and easy to make on a table saw.

It certainly is

I put it on when I learned about truing up chuck back plates, it also helped to protect the leadscrew from the cast iron chips.

**Metalmuncher** · Sep 8, 2017, 04:53 PM

Originally Posted by Canobi

It certainly is

I put it on when I learned about truing up chuck back plates, it also helped to protect the leadscrew from the cast iron chips.

When I got the 8 inch chuck for my G0752, since it uses a non-"standard" 1-3/4" threaded spindle, the backplate it came with was for 1-1/2 thread. So I had to buy a threaded blank back plate with 1-3/4, and turn its various surfaces (including the I.D. of the collar around the spindle) to fit the chuck. That was a first for me, and a very interesting experience. In rather unorthodox fashion, I used coolant oil and a shop vac, so there was no flying dust. Nothing airborne made it past the shop vac dust pickup hood, and what landed on the lathe was oily bits easy to vacuum up, which I did very often so it didn't build up a lot. It is a messy business, turning everything black, but I succeeded and kept the chuck's TIR rating within stated specs, so I couldn't ask for more.

**Canobi** · Sep 9, 2017, 03:48 PM

The MT2 collet was waiting for me when I got home from work today so dived right into making the draw bar for it.

I started with some 1/4" round bar which I cut to length, made a mark about 1.1/2" from one end and turned the rest down between centres to 8mm.

I then used dies to cut the M10 threads on the unturned portion, and about 2" of M8 threads on the back. I'm using a flange nut for now but plan on turning a handwheel for it later on.

After bolting the deviding head to the topslide and lining things up, I roped in a straight shank ER11 I've had reserved with other materials and parts for a future QC toolpost grinder project, but decided to "borrow" it to help me out with finishing this one

**Canobi** · Sep 10, 2017, 06:35 AM

I finished making the rotabroach but got a bit carried away and forgot to take WIP pics as I went on....

....but here's a pic of the draw bar I made for the deviding head and collet.

I'm calling this project only half complete as I still want to make the handwheel, and I think I'm goimg to make a grinding jig for broach bits. I have a rudimentary idea forming but I'll get back to you guys on that once I've fleshed it out.