Just Made a Quick Video on Cold Bluing In The Home Workshop.
This is What I do, may not be everyone's cup of Tea, but I find it quite successful on Various Bits n Pieces for a quick Hassell free Finish.
Hope you Like It. Cheers.
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I use Brownell's Gunsmithing Supply's Cold blue. It seems to work a little better. I have touched-up several firearms with it.
Birchwood Casey also makes an Aluminum Blackening solution which works well on alloy pistol frames.
I use Acetone or Laquer Thinner to remove oil and grease before bluing. Also flashing a propane torch over the item to be coated just to warm it slightly also opens the pores of the steel and allows the bluing to penetrate better. Just let the solvent evaporate before heating it with the torch or course!!
Last edited by VinnieL; 06-06-2019 at 05:32 PM. Reason: grammar correction
re metal coloring in general;
One of, if not THE classic reference on the subject is the 1936 "Firearm Blueing & Browning – by R. H. Angier". If you go you know where, copies are pricey; $60-ish for 151 pages. But the info collected just isn't compiled so neatly elsewhere; the occasional hangup is on less than modern names for some chemicals. Cross references are available separately, and the web, of course.
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
Actually both -
1) as a nice, durable finish if its ground surface is absolutely clean, nice and scratch-free to begin with, and
2) as an oil-binding outer surface preventing rust.
The bluing isn't really that rust-preventive in itself.
Not really the way to go for cover-up of machining mistakes, scratches or rust-pitted vintage gear either.
Just my 2 cents and YMMV.
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