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Thread: Cold Bluing In The Home Workshop

  1. #1
    Supporting Member The Aussie Shed's Avatar
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    The Aussie Shed's Tools

    Cold Bluing In The Home Workshop

    Just Made a Quick Video on Cold Bluing In The Home Workshop.
    This is What I do, may not be everyone's cup of Tea, but I find it quite successful on Various Bits n Pieces for a quick Hassell free Finish.
    Hope you Like It. Cheers.

  2. The Following 18 Users Say Thank You to The Aussie Shed For This Useful Post:

    12L14 (07-31-2019), Alan Purdy (06-07-2019), Altair (06-06-2019), baja (06-07-2019), Beserkleyboy (06-06-2019), DENedbalek (06-06-2019), DIYSwede (06-06-2019), EnginePaul (06-08-2019), GKK (06-06-2019), Jon (06-13-2019), Rangi (06-08-2019), rlm98253 (06-06-2019), SA MAKER (06-10-2019), Scotsman Hosie (06-07-2019), Smokin Diesel (07-11-2019), sossol (06-06-2019), Tonyg (06-06-2019), Tule (06-10-2019)

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    Supporting Member DIYSwede's Avatar
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    DIYSwede's Tools
    Thanks for this tip, Mate!
    I'm having quite a few tools in dire need for a bluing!
    Regards!
    Johan

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    Supporting Member Beserkleyboy's Avatar
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    Beserkleyboy's Tools
    Thanks, mate. When I moved from the highlands to the coast, I learned a whole lot about what steels rust and what don't...Now I've got a way to stop that happening on HSS bits...Cheers!
    Jim in Sunny Sth Coast NSW AUS

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    Supporting Member VinnieL's Avatar
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    I use Brownell's Gunsmithing Supply's Cold blue. It seems to work a little better. I have touched-up several firearms with it.

    Birchwood Casey also makes an Aluminum Blackening solution which works well on alloy pistol frames.

    I use Acetone or Laquer Thinner to remove oil and grease before bluing. Also flashing a propane torch over the item to be coated just to warm it slightly also opens the pores of the steel and allows the bluing to penetrate better. Just let the solvent evaporate before heating it with the torch or course!!
    Last edited by VinnieL; 06-06-2019 at 05:32 PM. Reason: grammar correction

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Toolmaker51's Tools
    re metal coloring in general;
    One of, if not THE classic reference on the subject is the 1936 "Firearm Blueing & Browning – by R. H. Angier". If you go you know where, copies are pricey; $60-ish for 151 pages. But the info collected just isn't compiled so neatly elsewhere; the occasional hangup is on less than modern names for some chemicals. Cross references are available separately, and the web, of course.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    Supporting Member Fluffle-Valve's Avatar
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    Interesting. I've never tackled Blueing before, so it's time I gave it a go.
    Is it just to look good or does it help stop/prevent rusting?
    I have a 1972 Land Rover Series III Truck Cab/Pick-Up and a 1962 Land Rover Series 2a Carawagon Camper.

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    Supporting Member DIYSwede's Avatar
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    DIYSwede's Tools
    Actually both -
    1) as a nice, durable finish if its ground surface is absolutely clean, nice and scratch-free to begin with, and
    2) as an oil-binding outer surface preventing rust.
    The bluing isn't really that rust-preventive in itself.

    Not really the way to go for cover-up of machining mistakes, scratches or rust-pitted vintage gear either.
    Just my 2 cents and YMMV.

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  11. #8
    Supporting Member The Aussie Shed's Avatar
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    The Aussie Shed's Tools
    Exactly Mr Swede, couldn't have put it better myself.
    Cheers.

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    Thanks The Aussie Shed! We've added your Cold Bluing Method to our Miscellaneous category,
    as well as to your builder page: The Aussie Shed's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:





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