Cylinder boring without a cylinder borer.

[marksbug]

THE ISSUE WITH THIS TYPE OF BORING IS CENTERING UP RIGHT/ACCURATELY..and square. from end to end.yes it can be done, but be sure to get it square from end , to end. also it should be bored .004~.0055 smaller than the finish size for cast materials like cylinders on engines. the cast is not realy cut well but rather cht&broken out leaving fishers about .002~.003 deep, ( depending on the amount of material being taken out per pass, rigidity set up and type and sharpness and shape of the cutter. the cutting edge is usualy about .020~.025 wide, angled of corase.If i was using a carbide incert i would go for a incert with a raidi, dont use a sharp point that will tear the material deeper and effup the cylinder and possiably pull the cutter into the bore. on a std boring bor used for engine block boring the chtter is sharpened after every block done...well it should be, doing it that way the cutter will cutt better, less heat, less chatter, better hole, less stress and the cutter will last longer....yes last longer if you sharpen them more often,other wize when your burning up the cutter and then go to sharpen it you end up taking a lot more material off the cutter shortining it's life and the sharpening diamonds. I see no issue using a bridge port boring unless yours is all wore out, there not a lot different than a boring bar, boring bar has a small er quill but bearings are spread appart farther but the quill does go a lot farther than a bridge port type mill. and if you know how to use a mill correctly you know that you can use the knee for the Z not the quill and that keeps the quill supported way better., but many people dont seem to know what the movable knee is for. be sure to adjust the ways/gibs if you havent.you can also check it with dial indacator from locked to non locked possition, it should be less than a thou....if not ADJUST IT!!!!! Ive seen lathes with way more movement in the carrage,cross slide/compound than a mill has., and yes Ive seen wore out mills too.. as for the spring return hone & hand hone...... if you bore the correct amount then try to hand hone...your wore out . and cheep hones are ****. use a good hone with the propper stones( usualy 3-4 grades of stones for every hone job to get it right).torqueplates are also mandatory for most engines if you want them right. I have boring heads I use in my mill,never thought about sticking one in my lathe...I do like the idea especialy for wonkey shaped thin stuff that is hard to put in the lather and spin it along with boring bar chatter that can creep up and bite you that a boring head with right incert in it. Ive seen that addaptor for the boring head to use a incert,I was gonna make one, or just but the boring head that takes the insert..$64 on flebay, addaptor....about the same.go figure. I only have 2 3" bridgeport boring heads so i was thinking on getting some smaller ones...