Cylinder square

[olderdan]

I have never owned a cylinder square and at the price of commercial ones I decided to have a go at making one, at work we used to make our own for the shop table although they were case hardened and ground and strangely rarely used, when the factory closed I could have had one for the asking.
I have a number of old squares which I have been having doubts with and so need need checking apart from its use for machined items.
It is not that difficult to make your own cylinder square for home use say 2" x 5", accurate turning and facing between dead centres with a lapped & polished finish would suffice. With careful use and a descent steel (mine is some pre hardened mystery steel) this is not a high wear item, just a reference point. The only wear would be on the faces which could be refaced if need be.
I had to step back from the chrome like finish I had produced as the reflective effect made it difficult to use. With a 2-3 mike it is within 2 tenths on dia end for end, good enough for me.
Well after checking all my squares they are NBG so they will go to my carpentry box and I will buy a couple of good quality ones, at least I now know for sure.

[wizard69]

I have never owned a cylinder square and at the price of commercial ones I decided to have a go at making one, at work we used to make our own for the shop table although they were case hardened and ground and strangely rarely used, when the factory closed I could have had one for the asking.

Sometimes it is hard to turn down these opportunities to get free stuff and other times you don't want to feel like a pack rat. Learn from your mistakes and take everything allowed and will fit in the car/truck.

I have a number of old squares which I have been having doubts with and so need need checking apart from its use for machined items.
It is not that difficult to make your own cylinder square for home use say 2" x 5", accurate turning and facing between dead centres with a lapped & polished finish would suffice. With careful use and a descent steel (mine is some pre hardened mystery steel) this is not a high wear item, just a reference point. The only wear would be on the faces which could be refaced if need be.
I had to step back from the chrome like finish I had produced as the reflective effect made it difficult to use. With a 2-3 mike it is within 2 tenths on dia end for end, good enough for me.
Well after checking all my squares they are NBG so they will go to my carpentry box and I will buy a couple of good quality ones, at least I now know for sure.

This is something I learned the hard way when just a young guy working in my fathers garage. I had a little wood working project that just wouldn't go together right I finally discovered that the cheap department store square I had was grossly out. Wasted a bit of material due to that tool not being up to spec. After getting some cash together I went out and bought a good Starret square. To this day I will not trust a square I don't own. Fortunately they are easy to check.

By the way, a square like this, assuming it is hardened, would be worth having it professionally ground. Make it out of A2 to reduce corrosion and you will have a primary reference tool. Some tools are worth investing a little extra money in. Actually a lined casket for the square would be a fitting place to put it when not in use.

[olderdan]

Sometimes it is hard to turn down these opportunities to get free stuff and other times you don't want to feel like a pack rat. Learn from your mistakes and take everything allowed and will fit in the car/truck.


This is something I learned the hard way when just a young guy working in my fathers garage. I had a little wood working project that just wouldn't go together right I finally discovered that the cheap department store square I had was grossly out. Wasted a bit of material due to that tool not being up to spec. After getting some cash together I went out and bought a good Starret square. To this day I will not trust a square I don't own. Fortunately they are easy to check.

By the way, a square like this, assuming it is hardened, would be worth having it professionally ground. Make it out of A2 to reduce corrosion and you will have a primary reference tool. Some tools are worth investing a little extra money in. Actually a lined casket for the square would be a fitting place to put it when not in use.

Your first comment is so true.
The square will live where I can see it, I have put oiled things like that in dedicated boxes only to find they have rusted (very damp environment here).
I think the next lined casket will probably be for me.

[tooly]

Your first comment is so true.
The square will live where I can see it, I have put oiled things like that in dedicated boxes only to find they have rusted (very damp environment here).
I think the next lined casket will probably be for me.

I do not know which boxes you are referring to but if card board I always soak them in heavy oil or floor wax mixed with kerro, it does a fairly good job,

[metric_taper]

Olderdan, what is the process to lapp a cylinder held between centers? I see a rectangular bar in the photo on the protective newspaper.

[olderdan]

Olderdan, what is the process to lapp a cylinder held between centers? I see a rectangular bar in the photo on the protective newspaper.

You are talking about my new secret weapon for lapping and polishing, I will show it in a new post. BTW what looks like a rectangular bar is just a strip of impregnated leather for final polishing.

[metric_taper]

I'm curious how you got that mirror finish.
As you indicated the leather strap is charged, you're probably using it like a strip of emery cloth sand paper.
So I'm interested in your describing this process, and what lapping grit is needed to get that mirror finish.
Thanks Olderdan.

[olderdan]

I'm curious how you got that mirror finish.
As you indicated the leather strap is charged, you're probably using it like a strip of emery cloth sand paper.
So I'm interested in your describing this process, and what lapping grit is needed to get that mirror finish.
Thanks Olderdan.

The polishing process is working down to finer medium in stages maybe 4 or 5 steps depending on what you are starting from to the finish desired, I was using diamond paste. 45 down to 3 Microns The method is to lap in the opposite direction to the marks you need to remove, this tool does that while preserving roundness as you can see in first stage in my cyl square post.

[camcompco]

I'm curious how you got that mirror finish.
As you indicated the leather strap is charged, you're probably using it like a strip of emery cloth sand paper.
So I'm interested in your describing this process, and what lapping grit is needed to get that mirror finish.
Thanks Olderdan.

I actually create OD lapping tools to do mine. A round stock, bored to a few thou over the OD of the CS, drill a circular hole pattern around the outside like this:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...48294368376093

use finner and finer abrasives, 5k-10k grit stuff at the end, and boom, mirror finish

[neilbourjaily]

Am I an apostate if my cylinder square is a Caterpillar connecting rod pin?