diy home made vapour blast wet blast cabinet

[C-Bag]

There are many types of feed system used with vapour blast systems, including pressure fed, pump fed and others.
It looks like yours is like a wet version of the normal suction type dry blasters. Is my interpretation correct?
That would mean that you pre-mix the abrasive and water slurry, what proportions have you found to work best? What blast media do you use, glass beads or something more aggressive?
Do you do anything with the used slurry to separate out the dust from still usable media?
I guess that you don't need an extractor system but does the slurry tend to find its way out anywhere?
I have been thinking of modifying my dry cabinet to a wet one, which explains my interest in yours.

What is the dirt bike in the back ground of one of the pix.?

Yup, I'm with Tony. The pics are great but while it all makes sense to the OP, there are a ton of questions on the details. A while back a member took a run at building a wet blast cab and while he got the cab done, he had surgery and hasn't posted any progress about details of how to make it work since.

[Moby Duck]

Got interested after reading this and went looking. Here is a link to another DIY one that looks good and simple to me.

http://www.triumphrat.net/members-re...ml#post2382349

He mentions that the drums tend to sag because the walls are fairly thin. In NZ we import sausage skins from the USA (Hog Casings) in barrels with thick walls and solid screw on lids that may be better. Pick them up for around NZD30 each locally. They only use them once.

I have seen some Baking Soda blasting done to remove rust from the upper deck of a ship. It worked well but the baking soda got literally every where, inside watertight light switches etc etc., and they never used it again.
I also saw Dry Ice blasting used to clean ships main generators that were heavily coated internally with oil, mixed with carbon dust etc. The contractors arrived with a large ice chest full of dry ice and blasted all of the grime out in situ. The oil and grime just "disappeared" or vapourised and the contractors said that it was removed by the ships normal ventilation system. Everything was left clean, no damage to varnish or insulation and was electrically O.K. on completion. No problems with CO2 settling in bilges either. I wish that I had watched the process closer to see how the applicator machine worked. It certainly worked very well and was gentle on the parts.

[tonyfoale]

I have seen some Baking Soda blasting done to remove rust from the upper deck of a ship. It worked well but the baking soda got literally every where, inside watertight light switches etc etc., and they never used it again.

I have used Baking Soda for delicate parts and those with small passages because you can wash an wayward media with water afterwards. I am very surprised that it was chosen to remove rust from a deck. It certainly does get everywhere. Generally I use glass beads.

[Moby Duck]

I have used Baking Soda for delicate parts and those with small passages because you can wash an wayward media with water afterwards. I am very surprised that it was chosen to remove rust from a deck. It certainly does get everywhere. Generally I use glass beads.

The Baking Soda was not actually used on the deck. It was used on the underside of the catwalks and on deck machinery and pipes fitted on a tanker. There were many small hydraulic control lines, valves, winches, junction boxes etc that needed the Baking Soda blast to minimise damage. The deck itself was UHP Water Blasted to SA 2.5 standard. That's at 50,000 psi to 55,000 psi and it gets it really clean. It would destroy most bike bits though.