Very high quality and cheap soldering tips
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Very high quality and cheap soldering tips
So, just plated copper, no iron jacket?
Here's the normal layering
https://external-content.duckduckgo....png&f=1&nofb=1
No need for iron plating.
Iron nickel direct very difficult quality plating.
A thicker layer of nickel is sufficient.
I tested the durability only with brass bars and it is durable as with Weller or Hakko soldering tips.
Iron may be needed if copper rods are used.
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Gloves are a no no when running a lathe
I know, but, .....
In the video, you can see, a right hand scar from a lathe. A memory from 20 years :)
I don't wear rings or gloves when i work with machines no matter what type of machine it is. I have seen some bad stuff involving gloves, rings and loose closing
I don't wear rings because of the danger, but it took me a long time to explain to my wife. :)
The tip shown early in the video LOOKS like the type that is temperature controlling, not simply a shaped, plated metal bar. These use a technology (that I'm not particularly knowledgeable about) involving the Curie point of the alloy making up the tip (or possibly a slug contained within the tip) to control the tip temperature.
The Curie point is the temperature of the alloy at which the material loses its magnetic properties. The soldering iron body detects that loss of magnetic properties and uses that info to regulate the temperature of the tip, probably by opening a switch, allowing the tip to cool until the magnetic properties are restored, closing the switch again. Apparently the Curie temperature is fairly precise, allowing close regulation. Tips can be purchased with specific temperature regulation points.
No harm using a non-regulating tip alloy except that the iron might get hotter than you expect or is optimal for the task at hand.
Soldering tips need the iron jacket for the tinning process. With out that jacket, the frequent need to "re tin" the copper is necessary.
This is not a soldering tip magnastat. Thermocouple sensor and electronics regulate temperature. There will also be a video of a complete soldering iron soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by awright
No need for re-tin, durability is the same as for originals because the nickel layer is thick. Maybe iron is needed if it's a copper bar but mine are made of brass that is harder.Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner
I agree with you about the tinning of the tip/iron jacket (or core). If you constantly need to re-tin the tip it will degrade pretty quickly as if there is an acid eating into the tip.
The iron doesn't need to be PLATED ONTO a solid copper core.....You can build it another way.... An iron cap (jacket) shaped like the copper core you wish to use can be plated inside and out with a thin layer of copper. Then slip the iron cap over your copper core and plate the two together with copper /nickle/chrome.
for the iron cap ... think WWII Japanese bullets made with soft iron cartridge instead of brass cartridges
No longer available.