Dovetail slide - video

[Jon]

Dovetail slide. By Blondihacks. 29:02 video:

Related:

Carbide Insert Cutters by old_toolmaker

[Mook]

I popped this info in the comments to help others making a pair of matching dovetails. Unfortunately it was removed, I did not think it was inappropriate..

" It's common to leave a flat on all 4 external angled edges on the dovetails to help with clearance left by the wear radius on the corner of the dovetail cutter & to prevent binding. If you want to reverse the direction you can mount it upside down. Cutting the gib in the dovetail slot is a great idea that could have been used for both angles without resorting to setting up the adjustable angle plate. "

The formula for dovetails can be daunting, however I do have my own very simple solution to make identical male & female dovetails. If you would like me to share it please reply to the comment.
Below is a link showing the traditional way ( not my way ) including formulae, it's not for the feint hearted. If it puts you off making dovetails please comment & I will show you how - super easy..

[mklotz]

Everything is available on the interweb including dovetail calculators...

https://mwganson.freeyellow.com/dovetails/

There's also one that I wrote; it's on my page - see sig below for url and look for DOVETAIL.

[hemmjo]

In regard to comments being removed. Some of those you tubers are so touchy about suggestions. All some of them want to hear is how wonderful they are. They can never learn new stuff because they already know everything.

[Jon]

YouTube's commenting system is notoriously problematic.

[uv8452]

Dear Mook, I would be very interested in an article where you explain your way. (I find the 'dovetail how to' video a little bit too puzzling.)

[uv8452]

Dear Blondie, it is always a great pleasure to watch your work and get new inspirations. And I appreciate your honesty to deal with occasional little mishaps. (which are much more so part of my daily bricolage) Two remarks: 1. I would leave a 'bottom' of 1/8 or 1/4" under the long spindle groove to stiffen the part. Or: Pin the brace below to the dovetail base. If the dovetail flexes inwards due to lacking rigidity it will wear out at the ends. 2. It came to your mind immediatly (but you brushed it aside - too fast): One expects that a slide moves away from you if you turn the handle clockwise. And you acquire this 'motoric' memory during your apprenticeship. I wouldn't recommend to irritate this automatism by using a right hand spindle.

[Mook]

Thanks for the comments, I've looked at lots of calculators & methods but none consider the diameter of the pins to be important. By using any arbitrary pin diameter, lots more calculations are required.
If we are able to calculate the ideal diameter of the pins to give the same dimension for the male & female, then everything becomes much more simple to make.
Make either the male or female first - measure over pins - cut mating part to the same dimension over pins. This can be any dimension, so there is no need to split hairs when making the first part.
Fortunately this ideal pin diameter for both male & female is 1/3rd of the depth of the deepest dovetail for 60 degrees & that's it.


For any other angle - ( Cosine of angle divided by [ 1 + cosine of angle ] ) x depth of dovetail = common pin diameter.

[uv8452]

Yes, the common pin diameter is a great concept. And one should chose the depth according to the available pin diameter. But the pin is a bit small and 'ducks' in the V of the dovetail so no caliper nor screw will reach it. You could add gauge blocks on both sides, or another pair of pins. (...)
My starter for a simplified measuring idea would be: Chose the nominal size of the dovetail (i.e. the distance of your common-pin-lines), then the depth - which must be the double of the available pin size and then give two formulas (or a table) for the 'outer' (for the male part) and 'inner' (for the female part) distance between pins. (a table for 60° and 45° each)

[Mook]

Yes, the common pin diameter is a great concept. And one should chose the depth according to the available pin diameter. But the pin is a bit small and 'ducks' in the V of the dovetail so no caliper nor screw will reach it. You could add gauge blocks on both sides, or another pair of pins. (...)
My starter for a simplified measuring idea would be: Chose the nominal size of the dovetail (i.e. the distance of your common-pin-lines), then the depth - which must be the double of the available pin size and then give two formulas (or a table) for the 'outer' (for the male part) and 'inner' (for the female part) distance between pins. (a table for 60° and 45° each)

Yes, the concept can be used with a depth of 3x the available pin diameter and the width can be whatever you need.

I don't see any reason for tables, extra formulas & different sizes for both parts, it defeats the simplicity of a common dimension & one easy formula which is simply 1/3rd of the depth.

Please see the video below showing how the pins are easily & accurately measured on the machine.

Here is a sketch showing the concept.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S1z...T9me6b_jG/view