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I'm finally posting a recent project here on this great forum...to add another DRO to the big list here. I've been wanting some kind of DRO for my drill press for quite a while now and finally came up with something for my Cheep and Cheerful modus. It ended up being a bit more convoluted than I thought with some obstacles :headscratch: to get through but here it is. I have added a full write up on my website with more pictures and dissertation. Hopefully some might find it useful. :hattip: ~PJ
Good job PJs and thanks for the tip about the screws. That must have really thrown you for a loop to have the caliper quit on you. I also have experienced the intense head scratch of how to adapt existing materials into the desired end. I put a dro on my mill drill but had a stop mechanism to attach to unlike your drill setup.
There are so many novel ideas out there for modding HFTs. One of the best ones I got was putting this circular LED light array that's usually put on cars called "angel eye" running lights on the quill of the mill drill. I think it's like 30 LEDS and runs on a little 12v power wall wart encircling the quill. Nice and bright, nothing to look around and best of all no shadows! I think the lite and power pack were somewhere around $30.
PJs,
I like the insight provided on your website about the screws. The combination of your spindle clamp and hose clamp solved a tricky assembly problem and looks great. I have been considering adding a DRO to my drill press. Thanks for the posting and new ideas.
Paul
That is completely wicked! What a great mod. Nicely executed too, PJs!
Thanks C-Bag! Glad to be of service on the screw torque issue, just my nature not to give up and toss something. Much rather figure it out...then toss it in spares bin if need be. :p Each case is pretty unique I think but sometimes a spark can send someone in the right direction. That's what I love about this forum!!
I try not to limit myself to HFT mods but they always need something and there are a lot of creative ones out there! I've been eyeballing one of those angel eyes, mainly for my brothers new mill, but the 50-60mm might work for mine. For me another wall wart might shut off the lights in Cincinnati! :lol: But have some LiPo's left from another project that might work...have to check the current draw first.
Thanks Paul, the clamp did seem the quick simple solution to a cheap and cheerful project. Glad to share on the screw issue. Looking forward to what you come up with!
Thanks for the kind words Knoba...Wicked from you, makes my day! :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by knoba
Thanks PJs! I've added your Drill Press DRO to our Digital Readouts and Drilling and Drill Presses categories, as well as to your builder page: PJs' Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/drill-press-dro"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/126114/drill-press-dro.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/drill-press-dro">Drill Press DRO</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/PJs">PJs</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/drill-press">drill press</a>, <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/dro">DRO</a></div> </div> </div> </div>
Thanks Very Much, Ken!
LOL, I know that problem very intimately! My garage shop is all on castors to be able to reconfigure for the process at hand. That's the only thing that keeps the electrical situation from getting out of hand. But that is on the list for a complete redo. I think you'll be shocked at what a difference those angel eyes make and they don' draw anything but the wall wart is a little inconvenient. So there's always a trade off.Quote:
Originally Posted by PJs
Definitely getting to be worry wart about so many. Agreed the angel eyes are a quite cheep and cheerful mod on Amazon for <$10 and sure I have a wart around that will work with them...just like the idea of rechargeable with the LiPo's. Maybe I'll give it a go to prep my brother for his. :D But I'll need to find a new resting place for my Kobalt? Then again wonder what the voltage of my Kobalt spare battery is?? Hmmm...Thanks C-Bag, I enjoy the banter! :cool:
Nice application of the calipers! I gave up on my harbor freight drill press, and that cast table ( at least mine, an earlier model, had way to much table flex and drove me up the wall) I used a scissor jack under the table for a while. Ended up finding an antique chas Allan factory drill press head. This mod will be perfect for it and should adapt over is a similar fashion. That is my favorite part of your design adaptability thanks for the idea!
PJs you are welcome and as a noob here I'm shocked how many views and how many people are viewing and nobody has any feedback or comments. The other forums I'm on there's way more comment and feedback.
I love seeing how other people solve problems whether it's simple or complicated. And when something catches my imagination I just have to comment and usually have questions. Just the way I'm hardwired. Especially when somebody shares a tip like the quagmire of those screws. Weird things like that make echoes in my brain that I can't always remember where it came from and isn't always strong enough to be a clear memory but it has saved my rear more times than I can count. Face it 99% of being a mechanic, fabricator, machinist etc is tips and tricks. You used to be able to get this working around someone or in the old days being an apprentice. Now we have the Internet and wonderful places like this an U2oob and folks who share their knowledge. Beats the heck outta TV :)
Thanks Jere!! I hear you about the flex, just try not to push it. It's that thin wall tube! Saw some tubing a while back on Online Metals that I think will work with heavier wall, fairly cheep and could raise it up a bit too, but shipping will probably cost more than the tube. Still looking for old Iron myself. My dad had an old radial head that was built like a truck but got ruined in a fire he had. Love to see yours and what you come up with for it.
I love solving things too C-Bag and agree some of the best answers come from yakking about it with others or seeing something that triggers something for something else rolling around in the noggin. I also love seeing how others think about things. Personally though I really enjoy this forum for the diversity and the bright minds that I've run into here. As a first post for this forum I didn't expect much because of the myriad of other "creations" of this sort here, but ecstatic about the response I did get. For me, if Sharing the info and the obstacles overcome helps someone else, life is good and makes my day. IMHO sharing is what its all about.
I guess it just depends on the model and age of the HFT drill press. Mine I inherited from my Dad that was made in '84. The table is really heavy duty and never had a problem with flex. There's been other probs like tilt markings are not accurate and height rack and gear are crudely done so it's taken years of use and lube to smooth out. Like HFTs there's good ones and not so good and then there's the ones you just have take back or get rid of.
I've actually modded most of these that you mention, just did it because I thought it needed it for my use. The tilt issue for me was that the table wasn't perpendicular to the post or spindle so I built a shim to get it there. As for markings I always use my Wixey angle gauge or protractor in 2 directions. The rack was one of the first with some sanding/polishing/white grease and the big one was building some Delrin shims for the pinion shaft...sloppy! Also built a smaller crank handle to accommodate my new wood table top and bushed it for the slop it had. Mine out of the box had issues with the the idler pulley and fixed that. The best thing I did was to turn a brass insert for the spindle slide adjustment similar to my lathe tail stock mod. It really stabilized the spindle and my runout went down to about 1.5 thou from 3-5. The spindle still has issues but over all its a $300, $85 drill press with a DRO now plus it now works much better. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Bag
With the tube I used a 2in black plumbing pipe scrap and ground the casting out to fit. I wanted a little more height and strength. Maybe that might be useful to you or maybe the models are too different. Those radial head drills are really neat and useful, it makes me wonder if the right combination of plumbing fitting might turn a hf model into one :pQuote:
Originally Posted by PJs
Attachment 4261
here is what I want to adapt your idea to. not much original parts are left on it no badges. there are some bearings on it from 1904. just need to pick up some new calipers or batteries as both cost almost the same
Nice old Iron Jere, a beauty. Thanks so much for sharing you pic!
I thought about black pipe, easy to find but the size of mine is 2.56 (65mm probably) and black 2" sch. 40 would require bushings both ends, 2.5" turned down on the ends would only leave about .090 left at the ends, but .200wall would be awesome...to use pipe I think it would need Sch. 80 which would be a hunk...but solid! @¿@ Interesting thought on making a radial from one but the cast head would be cumbersome and limit rotation...with a heck of a clamp! Did think of filling it with concrete but longer would be nice. Don't feel confident to grind out the head and base...straight. I'll keep looking till something strikes me...thanks for the thoughts.
As for your beauty, it looks to me you could anchor a plate on the front pinch clamp bolts maybe and use either my hose clamp idea or what ever you can whittle out for the spindle. How much throw does it have? Also is that a fine adjust wheel on the front of the spindle?...if so that is Sweet!! Love the slider cast on to the base...serious solid. Amazing bearings still running for 111 years, how many revs have they spun in that time...Awesome! Coupons, Coupons, Coupons...the HFT way! ~¿@
Great job and good write up. Looks like following your write up would make this a breeze. I learned a long time ago when taking things apart either make a drawing or use the camera on my phone, makes putting it back together a lot easier.
Thanks for the kind words Crahar. I do that sometimes too, or lay things out in an order that works for me. This was a case of calibrated finger torque and guess I wasn't paying enough attention putting it back together after the clean up so it caught me off guard.
Thanks PJ
The drill has about a foot of height adjustment altogether, 6 inches from the quill and 6 inches on the cast dovetail ( originally some of these had a half ton cast base with the table that was nothing like today's tables. The small wheel on the front is for adjustment of the belt tension. These had leather line drive flat belts originally, a previous owner got creative with the pulley setup. The adjustment wheel moves the motors sled. If you ever come across one save it if you can. They sell from most industrial auctions online for scrap value often. Mine only has an old ½hp motor but it will go through steel plate like its butter, and very quietly too.
Good idea on using the pinch clamp bolts, that looks like a perfect spot! I have a pile of those coupons too :thumbsup:
Very cool details, Jere. I thought that idler looked a little odd, like an add-on, but still very cool to be able to adjust or change belts from the front. My Dads old radial head was quite too, probably all that Iron! You can bet your boots if I find one I'll snag it!Quote:
Originally Posted by jere
HFT runs those 6" calipers on sale <$10 all the time but recommend opening a few and taking the best one...some are rough as cobs. Seems like a natural place with bolts available...glad to help. Look forward to what you come up with!
That's a nice and clean mod, PJs. My kind of build. I like your use of a simple worm clamp as a fixing band for the sliding scale.
Thanks DIYer, that means a lot coming from you!
Very nice PJ and a great write-up.
If the battery replacement is a hassle it might be worth running a pair of wires to it and have an external battery or power supply.
Nice job. I am basically lazy so I would not take the caliper apart but double face tape it in place and move the battery above it for easy changing.
The battery holders are easy to find so it would just take a couple of tiny wires and solder them inside the orig battery holder and place the new Battery holder just above the setup. You would not have to use a button cell and you could use a AAA battery which would last a long time. I'm going to mount a pic of your project above my drill press hoping I will get off my butt and do this.
