Fixed drill press vise..

Found a broken drill press vise.
After years of use, it finally was drilled full of dimples and it was cracked. End piece was missing, but it tought it can still be usefull.


Attachment 24852

Fixed it by:
Straightening the end with angle grinder.
Then, filled dimples with my Telwin stick welder.
Finally made new end to it by welding 15mm plate to it.
Weld edges are chamfered, weld size is about A5.

Before welding i preheated it to 150 deg of celsius.
Welds are made using Esab OK 78.16 welding rod, 4mm and 144A.

Then i stretched the welds by hammering.
Finally wrapped it to insulantion wool, to cool it down slowly.

Also made removable support to it.
Now i can use it vertical or horizontal position.

Great for holding objects when cutting or grinding with angle grinder, specially plates!
But, works as a drill press vise too, or as a small press..

Attachment 24853

Attachment 24854

Great save Tuomas! Also like the vertical bracket idea...may use that one. Nice write up too! Although I don't know much about the welding rod the idea of preheat and cool down makes good sense and sure it will help others with this type of repairs.

Thanks for sharing this with us.
PJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Great save Tuomas! Also like the vertical bracket idea...may use that one. Nice write up too! Although I don't know much about the welding rod the idea of preheat and cool down makes good sense and sure it will help others with this type of repairs.

Thanks for sharing this with us.
PJ

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Thanks mate.

In this case. Preheating is necessary because mild steel cools down and also shrinks faster than cast steel. Heating, hammering and slowing cooling prevents joint to crack.

I used tempilstik: Tempilstik® | Tempil

To check the temperature before welding.
Removed threaded rod and "slide", then heated the part in gas grill. Clamped the mild steel plate on its place and welded.
I placed tack welds to the bottom, then welds to the top, removed clamps and welded sides. Finally bottom welds.

Hammered all the welds and wrapped to insulation wool.
When it was cooled down i cleaned the welds and removed splatters.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tuomas

Thanks mate.

In this case. Preheating is necessary because mild steel cools down and also shrinks faster than cast steel. Heating, hammering and slowing cooling prevents joint to crack.

I used tempilstik: Tempilstik® | Tempil

To check the temperature before welding.
Removed threaded rod and "slide", then heated the part in gas grill. Clamped the mild steel plate on its place and welded.
I placed tack welds to the bottom, then welds to the top, removed clamps and welded sides. Finally bottom welds.

Hammered all the welds and wrapped to insulation wool.
When it was cooled down i cleaned the welds and removed splatters.

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Great blow by blow of the preheat and welding process, Thanks! Good way to minimize warpage. Have used temp sticks before when heat treating and tempering...nice product.

PJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Great blow by blow of the preheat and welding process, Thanks! Good way to minimize warpage. Have used temp sticks before when heat treating and tempering...nice product.

PJ

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Yep. Those also seem to last forever. Foolproof and fast way.
I usually use them at work. Before i weld next layer, i check that temperature of the joint haven't rised too high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tuomas

Found a broken drill press vise.
After years of use, it finally was drilled full of dimples and it was cracked. End piece was missing, but it tought it can still be usefull.


Attachment 24852

Fixed it by:
Straightening the end with angle grinder.
Then, filled dimples with my Telwin stick welder.
Finally made new end to it by welding 15mm plate to it.
Weld edges are chamfered, weld size is about A5.

Before welding i preheated it to 150 deg of celsius.
Welds are made using Esab OK 78.16 welding rod, 4mm and 144A.

Then i stretched the welds by hammering.
Finally wrapped it to insulantion wool, to cool it down slowly.

Also made removable support to it.
Now i can use it vertical or horizontal position.

Great for holding objects when cutting or grinding with angle grinder, specially plates!
But, works as a drill press vise too, or as a small press..

Attachment 24853

Attachment 24854

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Good salvage, looks good too

Doug

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Thanks Tuomas! We've added your Drill Press Vise Restoration to our Vises category,
as well as to your builder page: Tuomas's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-vise-restoration"> <img src="/uploads/216287/homemade-drill-press-vise-restoration.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-vise-restoration">Drill Press Vise Restoration</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Tuomas">Tuomas</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/vise'>vise</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/restoration'>restoration</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
<!-- END /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

Good salvage, looks good too

Doug

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Thank you Doug.

I have idea for another kind of use for this, than just using as a vise .. tought that i could make ring roller adds to it. This kind of vise seems to fit nicely for that kind of use.

That was the original reason to make that extra support.

Nice job, I wonder if the end was originally removed for direct clamping larger objects?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NeiljohnUK

Nice job, I wonder if the end was originally removed for direct clamping larger objects?

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It was drilled cut. Straight edge is where i shortened it by myself.
I filled some holes with welds, but those sections we're too bad condition, that i decided to shorten it.

Attachment 26413

Ah right, a bit like the cam-locking quick action 4" 'production' mill/drill vice I picked up cheap recently, where the jaw slideways close to the fixed jaw were more holey the righteous! Though I'm aiming to recover that by filling with metal-loaded epoxy and machining back as I want them flat with parallel registration to the base for light milling duties, and the rest of the slideways and jaw gibs are in virtually unworn condition.

I still have my 'apprentice piece' 2" mill vice I made 40 plus years ago from block stock to a nominal 10th thou parallel, square, flat by hand scraping to finish after all the turning, boring, shaping, milling and grinding, but it's just too small for my son's robot parts jobs.