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Attachment 9195Attachment 9196Attachment 9197Attachment 9198Attachment 9199Attachment 9200Attachment 9201Attachment 9202Attachment 9203Attachment 9204Attachment 9205 foot pedal sure makes for easy use of the tools.
Thanks Eljorger! We've added your Shrinker Stretcher Stand with Foot Control to our Dollies and Stands category, as well as to your builder page: Eljorger's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/shrinker-stretcher-stand-with-foot-control"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/144767/shrinker-stretcher-stand-with-foot-control.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/shrinker-stretcher-stand-with-foot-control">Shrinker Stretcher Stand with Foot Control</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/Eljorger">Eljorger</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/stand">stand</a>, <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/shrinker-stretcher">shrinker/stretcher</a></div> </div> </div> </div>
Good job on the stand, looks great.
So how do you like the Eastwood shrinker/stretchers?
There are vast differences in prices and claimed quality between the different makers and dealers. Seems like Eastwood is in the middle of the range. I've bought several things from them and they seem a step up from HF.
Have been going back and forth about buying the shrinker stretchers from HF but I may opt for Eastwood I hope they are a big step up Good job on the stand I will be trying to copy it
They have worked well for me....but then I have never used others to be able to compare.
My impression is how long they last is the test of quality. The jaws are not cheap, almost $100 so most of the cost is the jaws. It would be great to hear how they hold up. The Eastwood gets way better reviews than the HF and seems more consistent.
I'd like to know where to get jaws that are harder. Mine have worn out after very little use so they no longer grip. The shrinker i have is a HF variation,unbranded so I am prepared to adapt anything to make it work again.
Can you give more specifics on how you built your stand? Dimensions and pieces used.
Thanks,
Bob
Is there a warranty on them? HFT is usually good about warranty. You might have gotten a soft set. HFT is not known for their consistency.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B
You could try ordering a set from Eastwood. It's hard to say what the differences are between the brands. The jaws sure look the same in the pics.
Just out of curiosity, what wore out? I've not used one yet so I'm not familiar with the specifics. My impression is they are like ridged and the ridges that actually grab the sheet metal wear down and don't grab anymore. Maybe you can file the "teeth" back to proper bite. And if you can get them to bite again you can always try hardening them if you have a torch. Just
That is really nicely done. I bought one from HF, which I've tweaked since. You might consider adding the following....
1. downstops for the pedal arms; if you have a threaded bushing (or nut) welded below each of the pedals, which takes a carriage bolt with the head to act as a stop for the pedal arms, then there's less need to rely on feel for when to stop pushing down on the pedal. I find this helps with very long constant-radius shrinks; I can use a sharpie marker to lay out even lines on the part, start shrinking with the pedal stop set with a conservative guess, shrink the entire part at each mark using the pedal all-the-way-to-the-stop, and if needed I go back over the part between my original marks/shrinks. If I have to add more pedal movement, I tighten the carriage bolt into the bushing/nut a turn or so.
2. upstops for the lever arms; same theory-adding a stop at the top of the works instead of under the pedals. Drill and tap a hole in the top of both cast bodies, around where the original lever tubes go into the square blocks with the holes in them. On my shrinker/stretcher bodies, there's more "roof meat" over that square black block than shown in your photos. SO, you might have to add a cross-member above that square pivoting block, by drilling across through the two sides of the bodies, then bolting a block in place. Then add the tapped hole to this new block. The tapped hole gets a bolt with a knob on top. Now you can set the foot pedal/jaw travel without bending down. This method also keeps a little cushion to the pedal travel as stuff bends a bit, elastically.
3. grip tape or another traction feature on the pedals. I slide off my pedals.
4. An optional tray for weights. When I get going on a long shrink, I have to chase my stand around the floor. I threw a sandbag over the unused side of the base, but a cool bent up sheet metal tray for a sandbag or some freeweights would be nicer.
5. holes in the tower for markers and a ruler. As I mentioned above, I throw down quick marks at about every 3" (arbitrary) so I can quickly stomp out repeatable, consistent shrinks/stretches. If I need to shrink more, I start again between the marks. Then again and again until the radius is right or I've torn the metal (ANNEAL? NAH!)
Anyways, I like your design better than the storebought one I have. Thanks again.
akrotodd
Great tips akrotodd. Are your shrinker/ stretcher HF or ? brand.
In digging around TM Technology's site the originals are made by Lancaster. They also sell special modified jaws for them that the surface is akin to 180 grit sandpaper instead of serrated like all other jaws. Lancasters double what Eastwood's and around triple what HF's are. Would love to know if the Lncaster jaws would fit in either the Eastwood or HF's.
one body was from a great company I don't remember (like Mittler Bros, but not them.) Maybe USATCO? Had shrinker and stretcher jaws.
the stand and the other body, which I use rarely for stretching, is from HF.
If it was like Mittler Bros and not the discount guys it sounds like it's a Lancaster. And they typically come with one body, shrink and stretch jaws. And the stretch jaw works in the HF? That's good news because you can get jaws from TM Technologies: Tools, Sheet Metal Shaping Machines, & Gas Welding Supplies for Better MetalworkingQuote:
Originally Posted by akrotodd
for I think $88ea.
Hello Bob,
sorry about the delay, but here are the basic dimensions. after having used it a few times, there are some things I would change and may do so later on. such as the distance between the two bodies. when creating an inside radius the material will eventually run into the the other body. But the stand does work pretty well as is.
Legs: 2 ea. @ 20"(1x2x1/8)
Center section of legs 1 ea. @ 11" (1x2x1/8).
Center upright (made for my height, so may change to suit you) 33" (2x2x3/16) 1 ea.
pedal shafts 2 ea. @ 20" (1x1x1/8) pivot hole @ 1" used 3/8 hole and tab is welded at 6".
Pedal "pad" 3x4x3/16.
Pedal cross section: 2 ea. @ 10"(1x2x1/8) pivot hole @1" (3/8 hole), attached to center upright 4" up from base.
two 16" springs.
used 3/4" threaded rod that I had laying around the garage, but may have been over kill, you just need threads at the end of the rod for adjustments.
5/8" round stock for attaching to bodies (you can use the the handles provided with the shrinker/stclevisiretcher set) and used 16 1"x2" mounting tabs for the cleviss.
hope this helps, have fun.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to build one soon.
Bob L.
Good posts from everyone! I've been buying hand tools from them before they were on the interwebs. They seem to be good value. Sort of prosumer level. I've usually had good luck with Snap Off's stuff but get a stinker once in a while. The thing I'm saving up for is Eastwood's Model 250 MiG welder. 60% duty rating for $800 clams? I'm not sure if anyone can beat that.
Those sound like great additions.
