astroracer (Mar 17, 2016), C-Bag (Mar 17, 2016), clydeman (Aug 10, 2022), jackman (Nov 30, 2017), Jon (Mar 16, 2016), kbalch (Mar 16, 2016), n9dug (Jan 7, 2020), Paul Jones (Mar 17, 2016), PJs (Mar 16, 2016), sossol (Apr 23, 2018)
Thanks Eljorger! We've added your Shrinker Stretcher Stand with Foot Control to our Dollies and Stands category, as well as to your builder page: Eljorger's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
Good job on the stand, looks great.
So how do you like the Eastwood shrinker/stretchers?
There are vast differences in prices and claimed quality between the different makers and dealers. Seems like Eastwood is in the middle of the range. I've bought several things from them and they seem a step up from HF.
C-Bag (Mar 17, 2016)
You could try ordering a set from Eastwood. It's hard to say what the differences are between the brands. The jaws sure look the same in the pics.
Just out of curiosity, what wore out? I've not used one yet so I'm not familiar with the specifics. My impression is they are like ridged and the ridges that actually grab the sheet metal wear down and don't grab anymore. Maybe you can file the "teeth" back to proper bite. And if you can get them to bite again you can always try hardening them if you have a torch. Just
That is really nicely done. I bought one from HF, which I've tweaked since. You might consider adding the following....
1. downstops for the pedal arms; if you have a threaded bushing (or nut) welded below each of the pedals, which takes a carriage bolt with the head to act as a stop for the pedal arms, then there's less need to rely on feel for when to stop pushing down on the pedal. I find this helps with very long constant-radius shrinks; I can use a sharpie marker to lay out even lines on the part, start shrinking with the pedal stop set with a conservative guess, shrink the entire part at each mark using the pedal all-the-way-to-the-stop, and if needed I go back over the part between my original marks/shrinks. If I have to add more pedal movement, I tighten the carriage bolt into the bushing/nut a turn or so.
2. upstops for the lever arms; same theory-adding a stop at the top of the works instead of under the pedals. Drill and tap a hole in the top of both cast bodies, around where the original lever tubes go into the square blocks with the holes in them. On my shrinker/stretcher bodies, there's more "roof meat" over that square black block than shown in your photos. SO, you might have to add a cross-member above that square pivoting block, by drilling across through the two sides of the bodies, then bolting a block in place. Then add the tapped hole to this new block. The tapped hole gets a bolt with a knob on top. Now you can set the foot pedal/jaw travel without bending down. This method also keeps a little cushion to the pedal travel as stuff bends a bit, elastically.
3. grip tape or another traction feature on the pedals. I slide off my pedals.
4. An optional tray for weights. When I get going on a long shrink, I have to chase my stand around the floor. I threw a sandbag over the unused side of the base, but a cool bent up sheet metal tray for a sandbag or some freeweights would be nicer.
5. holes in the tower for markers and a ruler. As I mentioned above, I throw down quick marks at about every 3" (arbitrary) so I can quickly stomp out repeatable, consistent shrinks/stretches. If I need to shrink more, I start again between the marks. Then again and again until the radius is right or I've torn the metal (ANNEAL? NAH!)
Anyways, I like your design better than the storebought one I have. Thanks again.
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