Sometimes you just need a little tap in a place that is hard to reach with a standard hammer.
Made a simple one of 7/8 brass. It is 4 inches long and weighs in at 11 ounces. It does the job.
Cheers, JR
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Sometimes you just need a little tap in a place that is hard to reach with a standard hammer.
Made a simple one of 7/8 brass. It is 4 inches long and weighs in at 11 ounces. It does the job.
Cheers, JR
What a great way to put to work that lonely piece of brass bar. It's been sitting on your stock rack for half your lifetime waiting for that special job. And the great part about that is it can still be available for the future emergency. Perhaps a bit hard to get into a collet an somewhat work hardened on the faces. Then after it's cut off too short to fit your hand you can make another one out of a chunk of steel bar and abscent a functioning lathe leave it to rust enough to get a rough surface you can coat with bright paint as a grip and flatten and square the faces on a belt sander. Ed Weldon
Indeed Ed, so many options so little time!
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Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Hand Tapper to our Hammers category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hand-tapper-7"> <img src="/uploads/168809/homemade-hand-tapper-7.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hand-tapper-7">Hand Tapper</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/jjr2001">jjr2001</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/hammer'>hammer</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Nice! These are rare. I believe the only other one we have is a mklotz build from 2015: https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...6218#post35512
JR must be wealthy in order to commit that much expensive brass to a project where mass is more important than appearance. Nevertheless, all that brass makes a very pretty hander. Might want to think about making a nylon or similar cap to slip on one end when you don't want to mar the hammer and/or the surface on which you're tapping.
I love brass. Not wealthy but I did hit a few home runs on the bay. I have bought brass cutoffs
and other surplus pieces for less than $3.00 per pound. Some of them were rather large hex
cutoffs up to 4" from flat to flat and 4 or 5 inches long. Sure, takes some time to cut it on
the band saw and then clean it up on the mill but well worth the effort. Someones scrap is
somebody's treasure. I have a scrap metal place near by that buys the swarf so it is a win win.
Right now that brass is very handy for making parts for my model steam engine that will never
see steam but will run on air pressure.
I still have hammers I need to make one of these days. One will be of the type with replaceable faces. Ok, back to the shop!
Cheers, JR
Almost forgot; editor@glue-it.com posted a nice one recently too: https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...0154#post90634
Is it practical to make a hammer that converts to a palm hammer simply by removing the handle?
Did I hear you say "model steam engine run on air pressure"? Those, along with atmospheric and Stirling engines, have been my hobby for quite a while. Although I've built a boiler works, it's far more convenient (and safer) to run them with an airbrush compressor. Here are a couple of samples of my work...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/r...e-engine-41518
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/c...1429#post59687
and this one really does run on steam...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/t...7364#post36925
I think you could but like Marv posted in the "dead blow palm hammer" it needs to be long enough so you don't pinch your hand when using it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
The other thing with using brass or nylon for the surface is protection of the item being hammered. Also for punches you reduce the chance of knocking off a little chip of steel and either sparking or having it fly to the eye!
I like the idea of lead shot for the weight. I was wondering if solid lead poured into a brass head would work as well as shot?
Cheers, JR
A lot of the "deadness" comes from the numerous little bits of lead colliding with each other. A solid slug of lead would provide weight but would be less dead than shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by jjr2001
Lead shot, available from reloader supply places, has all sorts of uses around the shop. Beyond the obvious one of providing easily conformable weight to objects, a leather bag 3/4-filled with shot makes a great conformable gluing weight and a nice surface for doing repousse work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mklotz
They are all very nice works of art Marv. The rope drive is very impressive, never seen anything like it before and of course the
"toilet steam engine". That is quite unique. If it were mounted on bearings at each end I think it would get to a very high rpm.
Cheers, JR
It would indeed. And if one of those bearings had a gear on it you would have a way of having it drive something.
Here's another one that is always a hit at engine shows...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/e...6488#post66523
Click the thumbnail at the end of the post to see it in action.
Never seen anything like it. Must be the most unique engine in the world.
Looks like the alignment would be critical.
Very nice. Cheers, JR
It's an exercise in frustration to make and get running. The pistons, which are turned and then forged into a right angle, must be exactly a right angle or they will bind when the cylinders rotate. This need for orthogonality applies to the cylinders as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by jjr2001
However, once running it's a real crowd generator at shows. I even had one fellow who, watching it rotate, said it couldn't possibly work. Of course, he was the same guy who insisted that the grooves in the rope engine had to have a non-zero helix angle. They don't.