Homemade Penetrating Oil

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doer’s out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

NOTE: I can't personally vouch for the results, 'cause I haven't read the magazine or tried it yet.
But I am maybe going to mix some up to try before winter sets in.
Stale Trooper

I've read the same thing, and I've been using it for that. The mix of 50/50 ATF/Acetone is part of a version of the great gun cleaner "Ed's Red." You add kerosene, and mineral spirits to the original mix. Simply put, mix up a batch using a quart of each component. Mix the ATF with the kerosene then add the acetone and mineral spirits.

It not only does a great job on guns, but I find it an excellent machine tool, and general tool protecter. Store it in a high density polypropylene gas can - like a Blitz brand. Plastic milk jugs will let the acetone escape by evaporation through the sides of the bottle, so don't use them for storage.

Man those are awsome numbers. I like PB Blaster so much I have a gallon of it but I think I may try to mix some of my own. I wonder if it works equally well on heat seized bolts like exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes? Thanks a million for the post.

Terry

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ltlvt

Man those are awsome numbers. I like PB Blaster so much I have a gallon of it but I think I may try to mix some of my own. I wonder if it works equally well on heat seized bolts like exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes? Thanks a million for the post.

Terry

---

Many thanks stale trooper for this recipe, i will certainly put it to use

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by eth77

I've read the same thing, and I've been using it for that. The mix of 50/50 ATF/Acetone is part of a version of the great gun cleaner "Ed's Red." You add kerosene, and mineral spirits to the original mix. Simply put, mix up a batch using a quart of each component. Mix the ATF with the kerosene then add the acetone and mineral spirits.

It not only does a great job on guns, but I find it an excellent machine tool, and general tool protecter. Store it in a high density polypropylene gas can - like a Blitz brand. Plastic milk jugs will let the acetone escape by evaporation through the sides of the bottle, so don't use them for storage.

---

Hmmm... what do you suggest storing it in to prevent the evaporation of the acetone?

Use a cup of Horse feed grade molasses in five gallons of water. It penetrates and removes rust with no damage. Sounds weird but it works!

In the past I have used Marvel's Mystery Oil and it seemed to work okay. Adding heat to the fastener helps the oil work faster. The trany oil and Acetone looks promising and I will have to try this next time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LORDDiESEL

Hmmm... what do you suggest storing it in to prevent the evaporation of the acetone?

---

I make it 2 quarts at a time. I pour a pint of atf in a bowl then top off the atf bottle with acetone. I then top of the acetone bottle with the remaining atf. I do not have evaporation problems.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stale Trooper

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doer’s out there.

(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

Stale Trooper

---

ATF fluid is a remarkably useful bit of gear! I use it for rifle bore cleaning and a few other jobs! Now I'll be trying it on rusty nuts! Thanks Mate!

Nifty

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by knifty

ATF fluid is a remarkably useful bit of gear! I use it for rifle bore cleaning and a few other jobs! Now I'll be trying it on rusty nuts! Thanks Mate!

Nifty

---

ATF/acetone is my go to penetrant, the other day we decided to take my bike at the last min. on vacation trip. the chain was rusted up and had many links that were solid as one piece. My boy said he would take the bike home and change out the chain a get the bike ready for the trip. I flipped it over and started the ATF/acetone treatment and to his complete surprise the chain was totally free and working great. I have tried all the expesive stuff and kroil and alway go back to the cheapo ATF/Acetone.

Thanks Ed... but I'm not getting back on a bike! :rolleyes:

After many years of working on ships I have used almost everything. But this is a new one to me, I will be giving it a try soon.

I've known about the acetone/ATF mix for some time but the addition of kerosene and mineral spirits is new to me. Thanks for the tip!

Our garage apprentices were spraying penetrants like they're making a mural. Thanks for the tip. Will be giving this one a try.

Sounds good, gonna give it a try.

This thread has been moved to the Must Read subforum. Congrats (and thanks) to Stale Trooper for making such a valuable contribution!

If storage is a problem why not convert a few old wd or rp cans with a car valve soldered in. Then it can be stored until it's needed. When needed just pump up the can with a compressor, about 100psi, and you've got you're spray applicator.

I know what I'm doing before I buy any more of the various penetrents i've tried over the years.

Thanks for a good tip.

Now you done it, you let out the secret. I do not know what all those people at WD-40 are going to do now. WD-40 will go out of business. Ha! Ha!
tranny-tone works better than any of the box store products.
Nelson

This comment of mine is several years too late but 'pilotbraden' has made a very good point here. If the acetone does not evaporate from the container that it is purchased in, then this is the perfect container to mix and store the home mix in.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LORDDiESEL

Hmmm... what do you suggest storing it in to prevent the evaporation of the acetone?

---

I have been using this for years. I store in glass jar like peanut butter container until I want to use, then just put into a pump style oil can. I do use a WD40 spray bottle to apply occasionally but put back in glass jar until the next opportunity arises. I mixed some when I first heard about it and the next day I saw where it had seperated. I just thought it must have been a special type of ATF that I had not gotten and dismissed the whole idea. I heard later the juice seperates and has to be shaken up before application. I am wondering if the Kerosene disolves the ATF which is why it needs to mixed before mixing with acetone. I will try it. Kroil is good, but this is much cheaper and only slightly less convenient to use. I have gotten into the habit of shaking the can everytime I pick it up for another shot.

Not heard this one before, but it sure makes sense! ATF is my wonder oil ever since automotive school in the 70's. The head instructor taught auto trans and advanced courses and one of the tips he gave me was when an engine gets a lot miles, especially one that's sat a lot and is using oil but not smoking, before the oil change and it's a quart down put in a qt. of ATF and run it for 500mi. He would run up to 1,000 then change the oil.

My grandfather's old Buick was was a prime example. Had about 80k, but was mostly a garage queen. It started using about a qt. every 1,500mi. So I did the ATF trick and ran it about 500mi(took a while) and after that it would drop a qt 3-4K mi. And because it has additives to soften seals not only does it get the valve seals sealing again it soften the crank seals and loosen up stuck rings.

I have no idea what it would do mixed with synthetic oils though.

As to containers, I've always had a couple of these little Sure Shot rechargeable sprayers in my box. To take this pic I dug the little one out and I've not used it in 20yrs at least and it still had pressure when I pulled the trigger. Of course it had ATF I it :) the big one I picked up in a garage sale for $5, tag still on it.Attachment 14539

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Raven Sirius

If storage is a problem why not convert a few old wd or rp cans with a car valve soldered in. Then it can be stored until it's needed. When needed just pump up the can with a compressor, about 100psi, and you've got you're spray applicator.

I know what I'm doing before I buy any more of the various penetrents i've tried over the years.

Thanks for a good tip.

---

That's what I do, I store mine in a metal spray can (originally WD-40)! It's just a hand squeeze sprayer which gets a bit tiresome if you have to spray very much but I don't have to worry about evaporation or adding air!

I found out a few years how great this concoction really works. I bought a hundred plus year old 25 pound Little Giant power hammer from an old timer. It had been laying in the dirt for 10-15 years. Some of the bolts were rusted off or partially off. All the linkage bolts and nuts looked original(to me) and were really rusted up. It was laying on the linkage side when I dug it out. I mixed up the ATF/Acetone and repeatedly applied for three or four days. After that, the old square nuts turned off with moderate force. I swear by the stuff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stale Trooper

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doer’s out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

NOTE: I can't personally vouch for the results, 'cause I haven't read the magazine or tried it yet.
But I am maybe going to mix some up to try before winter sets in.
Stale Trooper

---

Another home brew I have used is antifreeze. I found an old pair of pliers in the yard that were rusted solid and put them in some used antifreeze I had saved. Next morning they were useable again.

I've been trying all-sorts for about forty years and the best I've come up with is 50/50 ATF and Kerosene. I don't know where the Acetone came frome it seemed to crop up about ten years ago.
I do various testing and one is to use a piece of rusty plate, place drops with a pitot and measure at ten minute intervals over an hour,(beer helps). Then check a few times the next day. The Acetone mix falls short of many mixes due to the Acetone evaporating.
The Kero mix can have a bit of Aliphatic thinners added, ( about 20% to the mix), for slightly increase speed.
I wasted money on Kroil once just to see how it compared. I stick to the ATF/Kerosene.

Speaking of rusty stuff heat and a candle for those 'just won't move' nuts and bolts and 40 - 60: 1 water /mollasses for soaking,(degrease first).
I save old tools and machinery for a hobby and while I am always looking for a magic bullet the above get the job done.

dont store anything u want to keep in a plastic milk jug, uv(sunlight) breaks it down and it will crumble whether you touch it or not,, buck

Thanks for reminding me. It now makes me wonder if it is wise to melt these milk bottles and cast them into machineable blocks. The end product will obviously not last very long.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by C-Bag

Not heard this one before, but it sure makes sense! ATF is my wonder oil ever since automotive school in the 70's. The head instructor taught auto trans and advanced courses and one of the tips he gave me was when an engine gets a lot miles, especially one that's sat a lot and is using oil but not smoking, before the oil change and it's a quart down put in a qt. of ATF and run it for 500mi. He would run up to 1,000 then change the oil.

My grandfather's old Buick was was a prime example. Had about 80k, but was mostly a garage queen. It started using about a qt. every 1,500mi. So I did the ATF trick and ran it about 500mi(took a while) and after that it would drop a qt 3-4K mi. And because it has additives to soften seals not only does it get the valve seals sealing again it soften the crank seals and loosen up stuck rings.

I have no idea what it would do mixed with synthetic oils though.

As to containers, I've always had a couple of these little Sure Shot rechargeable sprayers in my box. To take this pic I dug the little one out and I've not used it in 20yrs at least and it still had pressure when I pulled the trigger. Of course it had ATF I it :) the big one I picked up in a garage sale for $5, tag still on it.Attachment 14539

---

Real Nooby here. I've used vinegar, wd 40 and some stuff an engineer gave me. I once forgot a putty knife for a week- about half of the blade was gone after the vinegar bath. What's ATF?

Sorry, Automatic Transmission Fluid.

yes.been using it fir years.going to try molasses on rust.

Hello,
Just a quick note on the mollasses.
I mix it at anything betwen 40 parts and 60 parts of water by volume to 1 part of mollasses. I use a 240 liter 'wheelie bin' and throw in a haqndfull of Citric acid.
My last bin full lasted over 30 years and was still working until I slipped and dropped a rusty Land Rover axle in and spiked the bottom.
It makes the grass grow like crazy so used stuff can go on the compost. An occasional top up with water to cover evaporation may be needed and a bit of fresh mollasses once a year.
Metal will not deteriate in it and I have left items in for well over a year. Stuff comes out with a blackish smut that wipes/washes off easily. oil after rinse,(dipping in Kero works), or hit with a primer.
I use one bin with Simple Green in it to degrease, rinse then into mollasses.
Hope this is of use.

A pint of DOT 3 non synthetic brake fluid works great for engine oil leaks.

Had a 93 S10 with a 4.3 I bought used and it leaked 5 quarts a weeks of oil out the rear main seal. It left a puddle of oil everytime I drove it.

I added a pint of brake fluid to the oil and within two days of driving it it was down to a nickel size spot on the ground when I parked it.

I had it for 7 months after that and it never got worse.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rbjracing1

A pint of DOT 3 non synthetic brake fluid works great for engine oil leaks.

Had a 93 S10 with a 4.3 I bought used and it leaked 5 quarts a weeks of oil out the rear main seal. It left a puddle of oil everytime I drove it.

I added a pint of brake fluid to the oil and within two days of driving it it was down to a nickel size spot on the ground when I parked it.

I had it for 7 months after that and it never got worse.

---

Yes a small amount of DOT3 will soften the old harden seals. But in cases like yours a little might do good but here needs to be a warning note inserted if a little does some good a lot will do harm. Many of the materials used in the making of seals and gaskets as well as other internal components do not play well with brake fluid over extended periods of time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frank S

Yes a small amount of DOT3 will soften the old harden seals. But in cases like yours a little might do good but here needs to be a warning note inserted if a little does some good a lot will do harm. Many of the materials used in the making of seals and gaskets as well as other internal components do not play well with brake fluid over extended periods of time.

---

Amen bro! ATF has chems in it that soften seals and is not corrosive like DOT3. I'm not sure about synthetic DOT3, but regular obsorbs water from the air. That's what destroys old seals over time because it pits the metal in the wheel cyls and master cyl. It also plays havoc with the stabilizers in the motor oil and cause it to foam. No Bueno por nada, jes sayin'.

I only ran it for a few days after the engine all but stopped leaking. Did not get worse the whole time I had it.

When you think about it the seals are not soaking in it they only see splast and residual.

Well I went and picked up the stock sale ISO 46 hydrualic oil the other day and mixed some 50/50 with kero to try as cutting oil and of course put it up against the ATF/Kero mix to see if there was a difference,(using old Dextron III which is the same viscosity over -20C to 100C as ISO 46), the ATF mix was slightly better.
I had a bottle of Morey's Heavey Duty Oil Styabiliser out and thought I'd add a couple of drops to the Kero/hydrualic mix to see what happened.
A big improvement is what happened which led to a late dinner.
The final mix I came up with was equal parts of Kero, ATF and hydrualic oil by volume and then add 6% Morey's. Why 6%? well by the time I'd finished mucking around that's what it turned out at. I usually only use 5% in auto trannys and 10% in engines, manual trans and diffs.
I'm now wondering what Morey's feul additive will do??
This new mix spread nearly 50% greater than Kero/ATF overnight which really suprised me. There is very little difference between the hydrualic oil I am using and ATF as anyone with farm equipment can tell you but somehow the seem to enhance the penitration of each other.
I'd be interested to see if anyone else has the same results. It's certainly cheap and not to volitile and most people will have the ingredients knocking about.
- Barry.

I have a bad habit of sticking my foot down my throat, but here goes again; what the heck is a "stale trooper"?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by George Breckenridge

I have a bad habit of sticking my foot down my throat, but here goes again; what the heck is a "stale trooper"?

---

maybe if you use the quote feature people could have the whole story. It looks like it might be "state trooper".
Nelson

I read it as the State Trooper is a bit sick of his job hence the " Stale " bit. lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mononeuron

I read it as the State Trooper is a bit sick of his job hence the " Stale " bit. lol

---

Or Possibly a Retired Trooper ?