AT my first observation I thought you were possibly building an over shot mower allow for mowing around a row of small bushes.
But after I see it complete with the counter rotating disk cutters it closer resembles a small hay cutter.
If in fact it is a cutter for harvesting tall grasses which will later be bailed of hauled loose.
I might suggest that you may find yo will want to add an outer guide on it as well to assist in drawing the fringe of the cut line towards the cutter disk.
this would create a more defined cut line. if this is a cutter as I have described you might find that you do not want to disks to be counter rotating as well since having the disks rotating in the same direction a natural flow of the cuttings would be laying pretty much in the same direction. This is just an observation not a criticism because I may be looking at it upside down since if the disks are rotating inward from the front only 1 row of material would be created in the first place
Last edited by Frank S; 05-20-2017 at 10:06 AM.
after taking a couple more looks at his mower I can see where a modified version would work well for me I might have to think about it for a while
I know the little sickle section teeth would never hold up for my use though.so would have to forge out some blades from leaf springs
Frank S, Hi,there are a few well known flail type mulchers on the market,(Mighty Mac for one),that are legendery for longevity.Blades off the shelf items and I've worked on many commercial units that are ganged behind tractors that use the same system the bigest advantage over a fixed blade is that they fold away if they encounter a hard imovable object,(doesn't mean they don't get damaged), this tends to remove shock from the drivetrain which is a big plus when it is gear drive. Most are double sided or like a fixed blade but with a bearing in the center. It is a good system and well proven.
Norton Dommi I own a 6 ft hydraulicly driven flail 8 rows of 3 bladed flails spaced 3" apart for the entire 6 ft it cost nearly $600.00 just for the blades and when it was used for commercial grounds keeping it was ran 8 to 12 hours every day through out the season great for cutting soft well manicured grasses 1 set of blades per season if you didn't ever have to cut the rough. Hard weedy growth could take out a set of blades in 1 day to those areas nothing beats a shredder made with blades that are 3/4" thick 5 inches wide and 18 to 2 ft long on solid hard bushing type bearings with 11/2" hardened steel shouldered bolts. with 1 of those I can cut 2" scrub ceder, oak , mesquite and not have to worry about a blade bending.
When I was a teenager I used to forge blades at the Black smith shop that I worked at out of Leaf springs removed from Mack the camel-back suspensions
I have had thoughts though of taking my old flail stripping the drum smooth then changing it from those thin 10 ga BY 1" 3" LONG blades to 3/8" by 11/2" BY 3" long blades then mounting it on a rotator and hanging it on the stick of my back hoe then I could use it on the taller brush type trees to trim them back enough to be able to cut them down easier.I could just about turn a ceder into a fence post before cutting it down or be able to cut a ditch line ot the bank of a creak without worry of getting stuck or turning over.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)