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I've done 4 mods to my 4x6 band saw. Two I'd do again in a heartbeat. The other two sounded like a good idea at the time, but I could have done something better with my time. As I have not used either very much. The two winners are my speed jack screw mod, and my replacement blade stop. I put up an article on Instructables about my speed jack screw. Here's a link to that https://www.instructables.com/id/4x6...ise-Jackscrew/ The other mod I did I use the most. When I use the saw in the vertical orientation I don't bother with that flimsy sheet metal table that came with it. That thing isn't worth the time it takes to mount it. I used to always just cut stuff on the stop that came on the saw. But that thing is tiny, so it is not much of a table really. I made a bigger one, and just leave it on the saw so it is ready to go all the time. It is a huge improvement over using the original piece. Here's a picture of my enlarged saw stop that I use as a vertical cutting table on my saw http://i.imgur.com/aCbW2wX.jpg
I modeled it in cardboard first, blah blah. People that can fab should be able to figure out how to make one for themselves. I also lost the original stock stop so I made myself another one when I needed it one day. Not really a mod, more like a duh http://i.imgur.com/ZJOD8Db.jpg I eventually found the original but I do like mine a bit better.
The mods I did that didn't pay off were I tapped a hole in the base for a toe clamp like the guy is showing here, and I made a lip on the drop end to put a clamp there to hold pieces. A guy on the net made a persuasive case for it, so I did it, but I just don't use it. It was a real pain in the ass to make too. So skip that http://i.imgur.com/VxfY7wD.jpg
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Sweet! Never thought of using mill clamps. Will be doing this in the future.
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Never thought of mill clamps, will have to give it a try. One of the things I have been setting up a rip fence and using my vertical bandsaw for is cutting mosaic tiles for mosaic damascus. Basically bringing the end grain of a pattern welded bar to the surface by cutting 3/4" tiles at a 45 deg. angle and flipping and forge welding. The more accurate the cuts and even the tiles, the better. Don't know why I never thought of mill clamps for this, should work great. Thanks.
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PS: Mill clamps.
Milling clamps depend on leverage to work effectively. Two things assure this.
1] toe of clamp should bear on the part at lowest possible angle, not flat. Setup of step blocks is easy, 1 tooth higher than part, especially when block[s] right next to part. I do it first without studs, clamps or anything in the way.
2] Strongest clamp force at lowest torque with stud closest to clamp toe.
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Three great ideas 'shared' in a single post. Thanks to all!
Dave
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