How can I center my drill

**mklotz** · Aug 9, 2016, 01:51 PM

I'll assume you don't have access to a lathe.

Make or buy a center marker...

Veritas® Center Marker - Lee Valley Tools

Since both pieces have a rounded, cylindrical end, a redneck approach might work...

Obtain a funnel such that the workpiece sits about half-way down in the mouth. Find or make a pointed rod that's s good fit in the funnel spout.

With the funnel held level on the workpiece, insert the rod and tap it to make a center mark on the work.

Not terribly accurate but, hey, I did say "redneck".

**bluegrallis** · Aug 10, 2016, 11:44 AM

The redneck idea might work. I do have an old South Bend Lathe but the foot board is assembled and I don't want to take it apart. The broken off piece has no straight diameter to chuck on either. I have a center finder for my Starrett square, but there is only the eyeball to locate it on either piece, though I had thought about trying that.
I may make a wallowed out hole for the dowel anyway so I can put some 5 minute epoxy in to make the fix? That way, it wouldn't HAVE to be exactly centered on both pieces like for a tight fitting dowel.

Originally Posted by mklotz

I'll assume you don't have access to a lathe.

Make or buy a center marker...

Veritas® Center Marker - Lee Valley Tools

Since both pieces have a rounded, cylindrical end, a redneck approach might work...

Obtain a funnel such that the workpiece sits about half-way down in the mouth. Find or make a pointed rod that's s good fit in the funnel spout.

With the funnel held level on the workpiece, insert the rod and tap it to make a center mark on the work.

Not terribly accurate but, hey, I did say "redneck".

**mklotz** · Aug 10, 2016, 01:56 PM

Despite the fact that it's my suggestion, I really hate the funnel idea; it's just too inaccurate.

How about this approach...

Make a "corner" jig similar to the Lee Valley one in my URL. Make it from plywood. Now, measure the radius of the finial and, at that distance along the base diagonal of the jig, drill a hole. Clamp the finial into this impromptu jig and, using the guide hole in the base, drill the hole for the dowel.

Now, repeat the above but this time, instead of the radius of the finial, use half the diagonal of the bed post. Clamp this jig to the square part of the bed post and use the hole as a guide to drill the dowel hole into the bed post.

Done carefully, the two holes should line up well enough that any errors won't be obvious to the casual observer.

**Moby Duck** · Aug 10, 2016, 06:35 PM

I would go for centering both holes with your own Mk1 eyeball and making a well fitted hole in the top part. As both of these holes are probably going to be drilled by a hand held drill they are unlikely
to end up perpendicular, so being slightly off centre shouldn't matter too much. Then I would glue an extended length of threaded rod or cut off bolt into the top part, and wait until it dries. Then make an oversized/wallowed out hole in the base part and offer up the dowel and check that it aligns. If not wallow out some more until it does. Then glue together using a gap filling wood glue, but I guess that epoxy would also be O.K. Mask it up well before gluing, particularly if you use epoxy, and you won't have to restore the antique finish. I'd use the metal dowel because you don't ever want it to break off again. The next repair would be even harder.
There is an old Naval saying when it comes to wood working, "Engineers work to the nearest thousandth of an inch, Shipwrights work to the nearest ship".