I resurface the Brake disc for my sons Toyota Tacoma Pickup using my 16 x 60 metal lathe. I show how to set them up in a metal lathe to maintain concentric true with the axis of rotation. This works out great, and very much a home shop job for the DIY.
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I've done this before but I really have no foundation for whether or not what I did is any good. What's the acceptable tolerance for thickness? Any idiot (i.e. me) can throw a set of rotors on a lathe and resurface them, but how out of plane can those two faces be? I've heard 2 thou is acceptable runout, but that seems like a lot.
I've turned 1000's of rotors on a brake lathe and more than I care to admit to on an engine lathe but can't recall ever turning the rotor around to turn the other side.
I found the easiest way to turn a rotor in an engine lathe is to have a pair of massively oversized boring bars or a homemade one that you can insert a cutting tool in from either side mount the rotor from the hub so the disk is furthest way from the chuck dial the mating face that attaches to the spindle hub or better yet leave the rotor mounted to the car hub make an arbor to fit the hub then turn the disk using the bar just like you would on a brake lathe. But then again I have used brake lathes like an engine lathe as well Anco lathes are massive with bulk and stable as granite even the light weight variable speed Van Normal brake lathes are good for turning lots of things if you don't have a conventional metal lathe
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When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/
Min. Thickness is usually marked on the rotor. Run out/Parallel tolerance I do not know. But within 0.001" is what I shoot for, seem to work fine for me.
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