Induction heating brake line fitting removal - GIF

[hemmjo]

I would juet replace the whole rusty caliper.

The trouble with replacing, unless you get NEW ones, you have only a 50/50 chance of getting a GOOD caliper. I will NEVER again replace a caliper with rebuilt unless I absolutely HAVE to. I used to but always had trouble after replacing calipers. Turned out the rebuilt calipers were junk. You give your good, maybe dirty, calipers back as cores and get a shiny on the outside piece of crap on the inside back as a rebuilt one. Since I had so much trouble I started investigating. I got rebuilt caliper so bad that the pistons would not even budge with the 150 psi in my shop compressor. Yes I know, brake pressure is much higher than that. Keep in mind, if you cannot move the pistons with air, they will they will continue to rub your rotors when you let off the brake. Try it next time you have one off. Put a board between the pistons to keep them from blowing all the way out. Keep adding air pressure See when they start to move. If one starts to move at 20 psi, and the others don't not move till much higher, you have a bad caliper that will ruin your brake pads. If you use unbalanced calipers, one side will brake harder than the other.

If I have to get rebuilt, I take the pistons out and check to be sure they are not pitted to cause problems down the road. The one I got that would not move, I got apart with a grease gun, and grease fitting in the bleeder hole, until the piston came out. The piston was pitted. The pits filled with some kind of stuff, like bondo only green. I was not happy when I took that back to NAPA.

You can buy NEW seals, pistons if necessary, to rebuild your own for cheaper than rebuild and you KNOW what you have when you are done. It is rare you need to replace the pistons.