Jointer and Table Saw Uses Same Motor

[bigalscorpio]

Hi Paul,

There are similarities between how our machines work especially the motor drive relying on its own weight. My saw, which is a virtually unknown "Naerock" 10" tablesaw with a cast iron top (rare in the uk) was a mess when I got it about 5 years ago. It was rusty, stiff, very underpowered with the 3/4hp direct drive motor and worst of all had a wobble on the arbor.

I bought it for about $40 in your money and for all its faults I was just so glad to have a cast iron top with real mitre slots instead of the usual pressed steel or formed aluminum that is so popular here. These crappy options are in my mind unacceptable to anyone wanting even average results from their milling and there seems to be no way of avoiding them without spending around $1500 for a cabinet saw in the UK. So with all its faults I was very happy to have it and didn't even bother trying to make the saw work as it was, I just wanted a good cast iron top!

When I was looking for a new motor I was dismayed at the 100s I would have to spend for a minimum 2hp so I thought outside the box and bought a garden shredder from B & Q for $80 which had a 3.3hp induction motor. Ideal. I knew however that the direct drive option wouldn't work with that beast as it was nearly the diameter of the blade! So I decided it would have to be belt drive like yours, which worked but meant I had to extend the box hugely to allow for the tilts motor swing. Since then I have been interested in other ways of hanging the motor and have found some saws that have their motors separate to the moving arbor and rely on tension/weight of the motor to allow up and down on the blade and then running the belt at 45 degrees to allow mitre movement, but I can't actually find any examples that I can look at in detail, but I'm still looking.

Sorry for the long yarn and hope to see some of your work posted.

Al