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Thread: Looking to add a treadmill motor to a JD Wallace vintage bandsaw.

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  1. #1
    Supporting Member C-Bag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jere View Post
    with the taper in the gear i was assuming that in was put there to retain the gear as there is not a set screw just the keyway. what would have kept the gear on just the keyway? It's a pretty weird design either way, I can see why designs have changed since the time this machine was made

    great suggestions about the shoulder I will have to see what kind of round stock I could make it from. with the last version I just used a piece of plumbing scrap pipe.
    yup, old stuff is a marvel and a head scratcher sometimes. I've not run into a tapered shaft with a gear like you have. After I posted that dawned on me, how did that thing stay on? It must have to do with the gear being helical cut and it thrusts itself into the taper while under load. dunno. Ingenious but far more work IMHO than set screws.

    But you need a shoulder in order to do set screws so is there enough clearance in the oil box? Hate for you to go to all that trouble and get stumped by clearance. And what are you going to do about sealing the shaft? You might get away with a big dished (towards the gear) washer spaced away from the gear on the shaft as an old oil slinger. Worked ok on the front of crank in my old aircooled VW engines as long as the PCV wasn't plugged or it didn't have too much blow by. That way you wouldn't need to come up with some kind of rubber shaft seal. Details, details.

  2. #2
    Supporting Member jere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Bag View Post
    yup, old stuff is a marvel and a head scratcher sometimes. I've not run into a tapered shaft with a gear like you have. After I posted that dawned on me, how did that thing stay on? It must have to do with the gear being helical cut and it thrusts itself into the taper while under load. dunno. Ingenious but far more work IMHO than set screws.

    But you need a shoulder in order to do set screws so is there enough clearance in the oil box? Hate for you to go to all that trouble and get stumped by clearance. And what are you going to do about sealing the shaft? You might get away with a big dished (towards the gear) washer spaced away from the gear on the shaft as an old oil slinger. Worked ok on the front of crank in my old aircooled VW engines as long as the PCV wasn't plugged or it didn't have too much blow by. That way you wouldn't need to come up with some kind of rubber shaft seal. Details, details.
    I think there should be space for the shoulder, the old motors ballbearings cutout left some breathing room. I am thinking about using a rubber grommet as a seal. I found a grommet that was left from when I removed the ac system from my car. It fits in 1.5 inch opening but tapers down to 1\4 inch hole. I like the oil slinger idea too I could use both to be on the safe side. The old motor was coated in dried up oil inside and out so that is a good thing to avoid if at all possible.


    Update on progress (or lack thereof )
    The past couple of days have not been going smoothly so progress is coming along slowly. My 34 year old jet 4x6 bandsaw need is having some wear issues with the upper wheel. I switched to a grinder with a cutting disk (but had to make a run to hf to get some cutting disks), cut a good amount of steel and then sheared all the teeth off of the grinders gears. Back to hf again with the dead grinder I went.( I am not shedding any tears on the cheap grinder but it was a waste of time. )Somewhere along the line (maybe hefting around a bandsaw or the benchtop lathe ) I pulled a muscle in my rotator cuff. So far the pulled muscle has not been a fun experience. Hopefully things should be back on track in a few days.

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