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This article, intended for those new to the metal working hobby, explains how to forge a nut driver. You will need a lathe and a few hand tools plus a heat source.
If you are interested, please see
http://rick.sparber.org/FND.pdf
Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.
Very nice, Rick! Heating the rod to form the hex is clever. Is heat treatment recommended for longevity purposes?
If I was going to heat treat the tool, I would start with W-1 drill rod. Not sure it is worth the trouble given the expected number of times I will use it and how little torque I need to drive a 2-56 nut. Yet it would be an interesting experiment. Hmmm.
Rick,
Great explanation on the technique and I agree that heat treating is probably not needed for something driving a small 2-56 nut. The 2-56 and M2.5x0.45 size nuts are pretty common on small stationary steam engine models and having a homemade nut driver would be a nice addition.
Thanks for sharing, Paul
Great build Rick, gotta love those DIY tools oh yea....:O)
Nice method Rick, I will have to try it. I have made collets in bronze by carving a hexagonal hole, but your method looks easier.
http://toolmakingart.com/images/Spun...river%2010.JPG
http://toolmakingart.com/images/Spun...river%2013.JPG
I took a long hex tool and ground a high angle edge on it. This was rotated and driven with a mallet into a hole similar to the one you used.
Bob
Thanks Rick! I've added your Nut Driver to our Metalworking category, as well as to your builder page: Rick Sparber's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="/nut-driver"><img src="/uploads/107231/nut-driver.jpeg" alt="Nut Driver" /></a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="/nut-driver">Nut Driver</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/Rick+Sparber">Rick Sparber</a></span> </div> <div class="tags"> tags: <a href="/tag/lathe">lathe</a>, <a href="/tag/hand-tools">hand tools</a>, <a href="/tag/nut-driver">nut driver</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
Thanks, Rick and Paul, for pointing out that heat treatment, in this case, is not really necessary.
That's an interesting method. Little machining required.
I agree. Softening the metal then driving in an Allen wrench or bolt is clever.
This thread has been moved to the Must Read subforum. Congrats (and thanks) to Rick for making such a valuable contribution!
Note: moved 8 meta-discussion posts out of this thread and into the Site Suggestions and Help subforum.
Excellent technique. I will be making several for small pattern 2-56 and 4-40 nuts and bolts that I use on scale steam engines that I am making.
Very nice. Another addition to my "to do" list.
I suggest that you start the drilling (after the center drill) with a hole to provide #2 free fit so you have a hollow shaft to use on longer bolts.
Also, it is worth considering adding a counter sink to the end to help with alignment. This could then be faced off after the hex is formed.
k
For the benefit of future readers, I'll add a reference to my approach to making miniature nut drivers...
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...435#post101577
from SHCS.
Incidentally, if you want to buy instead of make I can very highly recommend the Wiha miniature drivers in both metric and inferial...
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26590-Dr...s%2C213&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T9R2N0/ref=dp_cerb_3
Very nice improvements to the design!Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl_H
I have updated the article along with proper acknowledgment: https://rick.sparber.org/FND.pdf
Thanks,
Rick