My dollhouse scale antique drill press model cried out for a vise on the table so I built this one...
The vise is 5/8" long and 1/4" wide. The screw is 0-80. The vise is fully functional and is secured to the table T-slots with real T-nuts.
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My dollhouse scale antique drill press model cried out for a vise on the table so I built this one...
The vise is 5/8" long and 1/4" wide. The screw is 0-80. The vise is fully functional and is secured to the table T-slots with real T-nuts.
Marv, wonderful as usual !
(In fact, I 'm wondering if you are presenting a liliputhian vise and drill or a giant match ???)
Thanks for the kind words but, no, it's not a Brobdingnagian match and I don't own a two foot diameter penny either. :-)
Here's a picture of the drill press with some background for scale...
and a closeup of the drive and feed mechanism. The downfeed lever works but can be disengaged so the fine feed handwheel can be used to lower the drill with finer control.
The drill press, true to the prototype, has no chuck. Rather, Morse taper drills are fitted into a matching taper machined into the spindle. The model echos this detail. Tiny drills are fitted to taper pins shaped to mimic the Morse taper end tab. The spindle on the model has a slot to which this tab is aligned when the drill is inserted. To remove the drill, the drift shown below the drill is inserted into the slot and tapped to dislodge the taper lock. I tried making the drift true to size but it was simply too difficult to operate with human fingers so I compromised and made a scale drift with a human-size handle.
I enjoy seeing your working models of tools and the extreme detail you put into each project.
Waooo, many thanks, that's simply incredible. Where did you get it ? You said it is quite an old tool, was it made for jewelers ?
I'm sorry, Christophe, but perhaps I didn't make myself clear. The lathe and drill press are model tools made from casting sets supplied by a US company, PMResearch. The tool post, 4jaw chuck, drill press vise, and miniature drills are details that I added to the basic models.
I know that you're a woodworker so you might appreciate the wood lathe...
and the tablesaw...
PM Research has some wonderful kits and castings! Really enjoy looking at your work to finish them up.
Home | PM Research Inc - Model Engine KitsPM Research | Model Engines and Accessories for Hobbyist and Machinist
Thanks mklotz! We've added your Miniature Drill Press Vise to our Vises category, as well as to your builder page: mklotz's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/miniature-drill-press-vise"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/139899/miniature-drill-press-vise.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/miniature-drill-press-vise">Miniature Drill Press Vise</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/mklotz_3">mklotz</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/vise">vise</a>, <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/drill-press">drill press</a></div> </div> </div> </div>
This is the first time I've commented on something on the site. This is utterly fantastic! I'm stuck with awe at your craftsmanship, even if it is only a 1/8 size awe! (That little pun was my segue:)
Did you need to use the lathe to turn the t-nuts on the table, and how in the hell did you hold them in place to drill them before you built the vice to hold them with?
Thanks for the kind words, Raven.
The T-slots on the table were made with a 1/8" endmill ground down to form a T-slot cutter of that (max) width. Take some 1/8" square brass, clamp in miniature machine vise, clamp mini-vise in mill vise on standard-size mill-drill, and machine top and sides of brass to form T-nut form. While still a single piece drill and tap 0-80 for hold-down screws. Slice nuts from brass stick and file sawed end slightly to smooth.
The process is almost identical to the way one would make full-size T-nuts, just a lot smaller.
The miniature machine vise is called a "precision toolmaker insert vise" in the Enco catalogue. You can see a picture here...
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies
(Third picture down on the page, item number = 328-0104.)
Mklotz, simply wonderful, love them to bits. Fantastic work......... :-)
David
impressive work!!
Marv
That is one of the best looking collections I've seen in a while. As normal would not expect anything less. You are a master and metal is your clay.
Gorgeous!
Nelson
Thanks for the kind words, Nelson. You may enjoy seeing some of my miniature, doll house scale (1/12) accessories made for my metal lathe model...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...ool-post-33750
I can't seem to find the post where the lathe itself is pictured so I'll add some photos from my collection here...
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Thanks mklotz! We've added your Minature Lathe to our Lathes category,
as well as to your builder page: mklotz's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-minature-lathe"> <img src="/uploads/207923/homemade-minature-lathe.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-minature-lathe">Minature Lathe</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/mklotz">mklotz</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/lathe'>lathe</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Many of the devices which appear on this site have merit because they are ingenious solutions to practical problems.
Other things are just so good you could LICK 'EM!
I know you've got a rewards system, but I think the site should institute a new category with the above title to denote anything which truly expresses the ethos of Homemadetools.net, combining originality of thought, consummate skill in execution, and dogged determination to see it through to completion, - sometimes, perhaps, without any clear practical benefit, but just because it CAN be done!
I wonder how many hours work MKLOTZ put into his series of miniature machine tools?
Truly awe-inspiring to us beginners.
MG
Marv
I stand amazed at the talent and how real they look. I an sure they would do work in miniature also. It just goes to show what one person can do and what a collection you have. Beautiful work and it take a craftsman with a special talent.
You have the Midas Touch, beyond beautiful
Nelson
Thanks, Nelson and Megagash, for all the kind words. They're much appreciated. The lathe is the most complex of the machine tool models I've built. It represents an entire summer's work, off and on of course, but perhaps an average of twenty hours a week.
I've also built a working shaper and milling machine. Here's a brief video of them operating in an overhead belt drive test setup I jury rigged to test their operation...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE7ghTt0fJk
Another one summer job was my deck gun project...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...6438#post66433
That video of the line shaft test rig is pretty awful, made with my very first camera that could do video. I'm going to have to make a new video with my newest camera.
As promised, here is a somewhat better video of the overhead belt drive machines in action...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7mQ...ature=youtu.be
These look like aluminum castings for the main parts of the machines. Is this also part of your hobby to do castings? If not, how are you creating the sand mold texture, as I've seen a few miniatures that are not castings and always amazed at the surface simulation techniques used.
I don't think I've ever seen an old photo of a horizontal mill that used that sort of cutter to machine a channel. I assume you modeled this cutter after a method used long ago.
I do have a Rockford #2 miller, ~1930 with a Lima overhead belt conversion. The owner of the machine shop I purchased it from had to sell it, as his workers always wanted to use it vs a modern mill. It does spin slow, but has power feed in all three axis. It also has a similar external drive shaft that is telescoping and has universal joints. #9 B&S spindle taper.
Thanks for such enjoyable pieces of art.
Hi Marv,
Your work is really wonderful !
I was thinking about you during my last small vacation in London in February. As I was visiting the Science Museum, I saw a wonderful cabinet representing a miniature old time metal shop, with lots of machines, all powered with overhead belt and a steam boiler. And everything alive !
I shot a little video (medium quality I am afraid), but I thought I could share that with you all, so I've just uploaded it to Youtube :
https://youtu.be/wcU3-wa-Mcg
PM Research sells the casting kits. You can see their offerings here...
https://www.pmmodelengines.com/produ...achine-models/
They also sell engine and boiler kits. I've built one of their boilers and recommend the kits because the engineering is done for you and the required copper isn't easy to obtain for the home shop guy.
Novices assume that casting kits are easier to build than building from stock material. In reality, the opposite is true. Holding castings for machining can be very difficult, often requiring purpose-built jigs and fixtures. While the finished product looks more authentic, the time to produce a working model is increased significantly.
Castings are very unforgiving about mistakes. The bed of the model lathe has four precisely spaced pyramidal ways. Lacking CNC I had to work out a HAM (Human Assisted Machining) scheme on paper, then verify it by using it to machine a test piece. After QCing that, the bed could be machined. Had I messed this up, it would have required ordering a new bed casting and waiting for shipment. With bar stock, it would have been a much easier build-up of brazed parts.
I remember that shop model, Christophe. When in London, I always spend some time at the Science Museum while my wife haunts the Victoria & Albert Museum across the street.
The realistic touches like the common workbench with all the vises and tools laid out are impressive. Also, I would love to get in there and make some measurements of that planer. I don't have one of those for my Lilliputian shop. The machines are, naturally, British in design. While many American machines are descended from these designs, they all have their differences. It's educational to see how things evolved.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I've added it to my bookmark list of amazing models from around the world.
That is one big "Redhead" you have there! LOL, thanks for posting . you must have som.............me workshop! and a we bit of time to use up.
Regards,
Ranald
Marv,
OH MY GAWD man... your like well.............. I'm just speechless!!!!! (Ask my Wife, that normally does NOT "EVER" happen!) WOW.......... just..........W-O-W!!!!
What "scale" might these tools be? I'd LOVE to put together a 1/25th scale Bridgeport Mill and a Clausing 9x32 (I think it was) Lathe!!!!!
I'm glad you enjoyed my models, Hemi. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, they're all dollhouse scale, 1/12 (inch to the foot). If you're incorporating the models into model machine shop dioramas or such, there are many doll house accessory suppliers to provide auxiliary items and scale paneling, windows, etc. for the display.
A working 1/25 scale of a Bridgeport would, I fear, be just too small. It's not undoable, of course, but it would try the patience of a watchmaker. For a more realistic 1/5 scale model, take a look at the work Barry Jordan has done...
https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Jordan.htm
I've seen these models at the Craftsmanship Museum and they are indeed spectacular.
Barry has completed an even smaller 1/14 scale working model of a Bridgeport (pictured below), but nothing like 1/25.
You don't reveal your location but if you're ever in Southern California, be sure to visit the Craftsmanship Museum. You'll be speechless for days. :-)
Marv,
WELL that being said, in 1/25th scale I wouldn't be trying to make them operate, just static, for display purposes with the model cars and trucks I make and I plan to make a garage to go with them for display.
I wonder just how much be incorporated in making static ones...... Follow me? (I did NOT realize, in the beginning of seeing this), that these 1/12th scale ones actually worked..... -WOW, even more impressive!!!!!!
The work you put forth however in the 1/12th scale ones is impressive all on its own never mind that they actually operate!
Yeah, nice lathe and all, bet the drive belt wheels are fl....
No, sorry they are properly crowned.:bow:
Just amazing Sir. It's fun to return to older posts, enjoyable then and now, over and over again.
You mean like these?
If you're interested, there's a video of the engine running here...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/r...e-engine-41518
Thanks Marv! I'm headed to go have a look! I've always loved the "love" steam engines, (I have yet to make one!)
Marv
Is the rope engine by chance from Elmer Verburg?
Very nice.
Nelson
Marv
If you have more pic of it and it's not too much trouble I would love to see. I studied that engine for about a month and life took me in other directions. Maybe it's time to revisit it.
Thanks for sharing
Nelson
Marv
After watching the video and looking through your album, you are very talented. Craftsman could almost be an insult to what you are.
I am in awe of two fellas on the net and you are one of them.
Very nice, thank you for sharing
Nelson
Yes like those! I must have lost track of this thread but luckily it has moved to the the sites home screen for some reason.
In any event that drill press and vise has me wondering how do you avoid broken tools? I can understand taking very shallow reps of cuts for normal end mill work but you described a cut down end mill to cut the bottom of the T slots. That would mean cutting all the material at once. I can’t even imagine doing that manually.
On a full size mill you get feedback from the crank and sound from the mill to help you gage feed rate. With the tiny cutters you are using how is it even possible to “feel” is you are feeding correctly. Waiting for the tool to break and then backing off a bit won’t work. I’ve never used a Taig or Sherline mill so maybe there is enough sensitivity on these machines?
Sadly if I tried to build that vice and table like you did I suspect that I would have a bucket of broken cutters by now. You have produced some amazing work!