Modifying Socket Head Cap Screws

A couple of posts back I submitted a tool called a V-Step Angle Plate, there were three clamps made especially for holding work to different places on the plate for grinding, there are a series of 1/4-20 holes tapped throughout the plate for attaching the three clamps, the clamps have 1/4” slots milled into them for making adjustments, I originally used 1/4” socket head cap screws for the slots which was ok but I soon found out that the heads on the screws were a little too small for me, I didn’t want to put washers under the heads of the screws so I decided to take 5/16” socket head cap screws and turn them down to 1/4" and rethread them, but holding the screws by their heads in the chuck limited me how far back I could machine them without running the cutting tools into the chuck, I wanted to turn them down all the way back to the head of the screws and machine cut the threads all the way as well, the only thing I could think was to cut the bend off of a 1/4" allen wrench and chuck up the allen wrench and let the wrench drive the screws while I did my machining, probably nothing new I’m sure but worked for me, but in the same token I destroyed a perfectly good allen wrench, oh well

I have included some photos of the machining process

As always thanks for looking and happy machining

Doug


Attachment 24104 Attachment 24105


Attachment 24106 Attachment 24107

Doug button head screws would have probably worked well for you their heads have a larger diameter than socket head

You're right Frank, thought of that but you know how it is when you get your mind set on something, just wanted to use socket heads cause the rest of the hardware is, but could have changed them all to buttons.

Thanks

Doug

Wow. I have a whole tub of Titanium Allen, Torx and hex discards from a bolt machining company.
You just made my project of making odd motorcycle pivots and the like one heck of a lot easier.

I have a metal canister full of perfectly good allen wrenches; I'm pretty sure they're multiplying in the darker recesses of my tool boxes :-) This is a neat hack.

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Great idea, sure you can always buy something but you could even use larger screws, using the allen hex in the chuck was a great idea.

Now how am I gonna remember this?

Ralph

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

You're right Frank, thought of that but you know how it is when you get your mind set on something, just wanted to use socket heads cause the rest of the hardware is, but could have changed them all to buttons.

Thanks

Doug

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Still a good trick using the 1/4" allen to drive it. Seems I tried this once and ran into a root diameter issue leaving a small void...but then again I once got chewed out for using a 1/4-28 instead of a 1/4-20 because I thought the engagement was critical to what I was doing and the difference in the cost of a box of them was <$1 at the time. Who knew it mattered @¿@, but then again I think Button heads are classy.

Thanks Doug!

Doug; a cut off hex wrench isn't wasted at all. Before T-handled hex wrenches, especially freakish long buzzards for machine repair, we did our own. Drill good quality rod closest possible size or .001 under hex size across flats, Square, chamfer and press a hex section in & bottomed out. Roughly speaking 10+ diameters depth will retain the hex indefinitely. I'll bet a couple from way back still hide out in a drawer somewhere.

Hi,

Cool trick!

How did you hold the bolts to do the center drilling? Put nuts on and held them in the 3-jaw?

Thanks,
Tyler

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wmrra13

Hi,

Cool trick!

How did you hold the bolts to do the center drilling? Put nuts on and held them in the 3-jaw?

Thanks,
Tyler

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Gee....over 2 years & still no answer to this question?🤔

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wildwilly

Gee....over 2 years & still no answer to this question?��

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K.........I'll step in.
Two nuts can work with issues.......so
Scattered here at HMT.net are 'lantern chucks', and best over all solution.
Next, with less initial labor.......
Coupling nuts [the long type] are better, just back the hex or socket up against a solid stop to not back out when cutter takes hold.
Or coupler nut in jaws with washer and lock nut in front. Good thing about nuts of course with hex bolts [HHCS] are same size, secure clamping and alignment. I keep handy at least two of any sizes I come across.
Socket Head Cap Screws [SHCS] the nut and washer work.
Or slip them in through back side of collet, in a collet block, chucked in jaws.
Doing a lot? Pick collet larger than screw head, make a headed bushing with screw diameter, saw cut one side open, partially on the other. When it breaks or flub the cutting, the head continues to orient as it was made. Plus it's a handle to retrieve from chuck or collet.
Or in mill, block in vise, just like above. Set a stop, dial in and go to town.

Awesome, love the coupler nut idea, I use those things for various tasks around the shop.
Thanks!

I know what ya mean about “making your own”
But, McMaster-Carr has something that would fit the bill right out of the box.

https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws/length~3-8-2/thread-size~1-4-20/flanged-socket-head-screws/length~1-2-1/length

The plus is that the hex remains the same as regular 1/4-20s

Ahhhhhhhhh, McMaster-Carr....epic company and website light-years ahead of ANY other distributor - warehouser - and especially everyone's favorite but despicable go-to.

At $4 to $5 EACH, plus shipping, I like that idea of squandering an allen wrench, making a lantern chuck, or using two nuts, or any of the other good solutions.

Attachment 45991


Yep, I am a cheap skate, and proud of it.

PS. Actually, now that I think about it, I am pretty sure I could fit the short end of the wrench behind the jaws of my chuck. worst case would be to shorten it a little. Even better take one out of the folding set I carry in my portable tool box. I am positive the small looped would fit behind the chuck jaws.

Attachment 45992

Good idea, probably not many have noticed but the head on cap screws is not concentric to the threaded shaft. If you chuck the threaded shaft and turn the lathe on, you'll find it is a little eccentric. I only noticed this when polishing the heads of Allen heads for my custom TX650.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by th62

Good idea, probably not many have noticed but the head on cap screws is not concentric to the threaded shaft. If you chuck the threaded shaft and turn the lathe on, you'll find it is a little eccentric. I only noticed this when polishing the heads of Allen heads for my custom TX650.

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After you use the socket to drive the screw to turn down and re-thread the screw, it will be concentric. As least within the tolerance of the fit of the wrench into the socket.

I often use old or new bolts as stock to turn into other things I need. Chucking a clean bolt in a collet, I have discovered that neither the hex head or the threads are concentric with the shank on most bolts. I doubt it would cause any issues in most situations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bruce.desertrat

I have a metal canister full of perfectly good allen wrenches; I'm pretty sure they're multiplying in the darker recesses of my tool boxes :-) This is a neat hack.

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Old hex socket wrenches never die; can be easily ground if kept cool.
Others with the ''L'' twisted become ''T'' extension wrench. Drill a hole of diameter equal to flats around 6 diameters deep into mild steel rod, press in shank, weld a T onto that rod.
I've also set them in place with JB Weld, the fit needs to be rather snug and/ or deeper.