Motorizing a Bead Roller

[Steelydan62]

I wanted to get some feedback from people more creative than I. I recently bought a manual bead roller. I already knew that using one of these by yourself is a bit of a challenge. Without a helper I'm wanting to connect an electric motor and have the ability to creep. Either by voltage reduction or gear reduction. Im guessing someone out there has done this and would love to hear from them. Thank you

[Jon]

Hi Steelydan62 - welcome to HomemadeTools.net

Here's a build you might like: Tricked out Harbor Freight bead roller of awesomeness.

[Steelydan62]

Thank you so much for the link Jon!

[athomp]

I motorized mine with a cheap 1500 lb winch and geared it down with a timing chain and cogs off a 350 engine. It has a forward and reverse switch that I can use while still holding the work with 2 hands. The speed is just about right and although it's not variable I can bump it a little at a time if I need to go slower. The only drawback is that I need a 12 volt battery to run it.

[wizard69]

The only drawback is that I need a 12 volt battery to run it.

You just invented the portable powered bead roller! OK not to be funny here but sometimes battery powered tools are a win.

[wizard69]

I don't have a bead roller yet but you are left with two alternatives build a speed reduction transmission (retrofit) or buy one new. Buying new of course is a challenge $$$$ wise. As for DIY you want a sizable speed reduction to get the required torque, otherwise you need a huge motor. The speed reduction can come from a gear box or a cobbled together belt reduction. At some point a more positive chain drive is probably cheaper and more reliable in the lower speed stages.

Variable speed and instant reversing are very useful too. This is more about motor control though.

[wizard69]

I don't have a bead roller yet but you are left with two alternatives build a speed reduction transmission (retrofit) or buy one new. Buying new of course is a challenge $$$$ wise. As for DIY you want a sizable speed reduction to get the required torque, otherwise you need a huge motor. The speed reduction can come from a gear box or a cobbled together belt reduction. At some point a more positive chain drive is probably cheaper and more reliable in the lower speed stages.

Variable speed and instant reversing are very useful too. This is more about motor control though.

One thing I just about forgot here. Many a guy has used an electric pipe threader drive to power these types of machines. They are normally gear reduced into the right RP range and as rugged as hell. After all if they can withstand a plumber using them bead rolling should be a snap. These drive mechanism are pretty popular on bending rolls for example. Ideally you pick up one at auction for 10 cents on the dollar. You just have to make up a shaft adapter that emulates the die that normally snaps into one of these.

[C-Bag]

I used a Harbor Frieght pipe threader to power my rock sifter. Its output is 40rpm which I would think ideal for a bead roller. I don't have a bead roller yet.

I've been contemplating using it to power my HFT ring roller, just haven't gotten back to using the roller so not gotten around to using the threader on it yet. I got my threader out of the HFT return bin for I think $100. It's got plenty of oomph and could power my rock sifter just fine. The cool thing about it is the quick connect style dies make it quickly transferable between machines.

[athomp]

A winch motor has PLENTY of torque.

[Frank S]

While the winch motors do have plenty of torque One of them might not be my first choice for the power drive. depending on frequency of anticipated use
My only reason is they are designed for very intermittent use which may be suitable for use as the power of the bead roller, a lot wold depend on how much use it wold get in a half hours time. You see the gear reduction system in them incorporates a single step 200 to 1 reduction and in some cases depending on make or size a 300 to 1 reduction the way this is done goes against any teachings of epicyclic gear manufacturing. they have a single sun gear 3 to 5 or more planets mounted in a free spinning carrier and 2 internal ring gears one will have 200 teeth while the other will have 199 teeth the sun gear mounted to the motor shaft spins while the planet gears rotate around it engaging both of the ring gears one ring gear is fixed and the other is in the drum as every thing spins around the drum gear advances 1 tooth for each 200 revolutions. Its a crazy way of doing it but the darn things work relying on loose and tight gear tolerances
I have a 1/2" planetary drive Snap-on pneumatic drill that incorporates a similar design over the years I have had several of these grenade themselves as well