Please help to wire up motor

Friend scrapped a Defy Auto Front loader washing machine, some 30 years old.

Motor and Cap came my way, but no idea how to wire it.

Attachment 27104

It is a 240V AC single phase motor, 2 speed and the slow speed has forward and reverse.

Attachment 27105

From the wiring I received the White wire seems to be Neutral as it has several spade connectors attached so assume it went to all the switched and elements and thing.

This is the cap that came with it.

Attachment 27106

By doing the internet search I found out the Run winding has the lower resistance and the start winding the higher resistance.

This seem to work as I found the fast speed (9 Ohm) and the slow speed (26 Ohm) but do not start by itself and then if I connect the cap over any one of the high resistance coils it starts but causes a fairly loud hum.

Attachment 27107

Please I need help as this motor will really be helpful with that rather low 450RPM. Any more info of pics will be no problem.

Attachment 27114

Connector can be vary according the brand
but the same numpers represent the same wires/connections

Quick speed
Capacitor → 1, 4
Phase → 1
Neutral → 2
Not connected 3, 5
*******************
Slow speed 1
Capacitor → 3, 5
Phase → 3
Neutral → 2
Not connected 1, 4
********************
Slow speed 2 (In reverse direction of Slow speed 1)
Capacitor → 3, 5
Phase → 5
Neutral → 2
Not connected 1, 4

so for my understanding....:headscratch:

I must use the sketch to determine what number configuration my motor is using.

So because I have no wire connected to the top Rh terminal my plug configuration should be the 3rd schematic
[1, 2, Nothing]
[5, 4, 3 ]

From the wiring received with the motor terminal 3 appears to be the Neutral.
any way to check what wire is neutral?

Thanks Again.

:hattip:

Not working on this motor. :headshake:

Perhaps if somebody can explain to me the science behind an AC induction motor.

This is what I learnt from the net....

There are RUN windings ( Low resistance) and START windings (High resistance).
Centrifugal switch somewhere inside to switch off start windings....sometimes.

So seamed easily enough to measure all the coils and as I know it is a 2 speed motor, the lowest 2 readings will be the 2 RUN windings.

Attachment 27123

Then find the common wire connected to both these coils and it should be your Neutral. Turned out to be the White wire.

Anything wrong with my logic so far?

Now to find the Start coil....should be one of the coils also connected to the White wire. So Brown or Yellow.

Tried both and it still only hums.

Connecting Neutral to White and Live to Red or Blue runs perfectly if you give the motor a spin in one or the other direction.:sweating:

Found some info that a faulty Capacitor can also be the cause.

My multi meter can not test a cap so quickly threw this together with an Arduino micro controller.

Attachment 27156

Cap spec is 20 MicroF and tester confirms it so Cap seems to be GOOD.

:headscratch:

Credit to ElectroNoobs

Method 1
black - red: 28Ω auxiliary coil of fast speed
black - yellow: 65Ω
black - green: 65Ω
black - blue: 12Ω cardinal coil of fast speed
red - yellow: 92Ω
red - green: 91Ω
red - blue: 40Ω
yellow - green: 74Ω
yellow - blue: 76Ω
green - blue: 76Ω
black cable = common
red cable = auxiliary fast
blue cable = cardinal fast

Since search winding goes from one to the common and the other on another cable, it goes without saying that the smallest measurements will definitely contain the common cable, since the larger ones will certainly be serial winding measurements.
The pair of cables with the smaller resistance is the cardinal coil of fast speed.
The pair with the next highest resistance at the range is the auxiliary coil of fast speed.
As a result, the two remaining cables will be slow turns. Attention, here are not just two windings, one main and one auxiliary.
Since at slow speed the motor is made to move in both directions, we expect to have symmetry in the measurements. That is, between black - green and black - yellow = same resistance of 65Ω.
So why do not we just have two windings there? Because if we had, we would expect to see between yellow and green 65Ω + 65Ω = 130Ω. But we only have 74Ω.
So there is another winding where it throws the resistance.
As verification, we can say the following:
1. The measurement between red and green will be as much as the measurement between red - black and black - green, ie 28Ω + 65Ω = 93Ω. Indeed the measurement gave 91Ω very close.
2. The measurement between red and yellow will be as much as the measurement between red - black and black - yellow, ie 28Ω + 65Ω = 93Ω. Indeed the measurement gave 92Ω very close.
3. The measurement between blue - green will be as much as the measurement between blue - black and black - green, ie 12Ω + 65Ω = 77Ω. Indeed the measurement gave 76Ω very close.
4. The measurement between blue - yellow will be as much as the measurement between blue - black and black - yellow, ie 12Ω + 65Ω = 77Ω. Indeed the measurement gave 76Ω very close.
Method 2
Pair 1, 4 65,4Ω
Pair 1, 2 22,4Ω
Pair 1, 3 76,2Ω
Pair 1, 5 76,2Ω
Pair 3, 5 108,2Ω
Pair 3, 4 97,4Ω
Pair 3, 2 54,4Ω
Pair 4, 5 97,4Ω
Pair 2, 5 54,4Ω
Pair 2, 4 43,6Ω
It is first to find out who is the common. We see from the above what or most preferred which contact has the least Ohm. And we find for the above case that these are the below couples with the lower Ohm.
1 - 2 22,4Ω
3 - 2 54,4Ω
2 - 5 54,4Ω
2 - 4 43,6Ω
Therefore, the above couples show the "2" majority. So this contact will be used for (common).
Right/left of (common) is split between slow/fast pairs. And if we observe "visually" and "fast" which of the contacts 1 - 4 and 3 - 5 (pairs) have the next largest ones in Ohm (except the common cable) we will see that
1 - 4 fit for fast turns (1-4 65.4Ω)
3 - 5 fit for slow turns (3-5 108,2Ω)
Hope this to help you.

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