Poor mans lathe DRO's

[Saltfever]

. . . If you're going to check a micrometer for accuracy, it's important to use a set of gage blocks that cause the spindle to seat at different orientations so drunken thread errors will be noticed. The preferred set for inch micrometers is: 0.105, 0.210, 0.315, 0.420, 0.500, 0.605, 0.710, 0.815, 0.920, 1.000 . . . .

Marv, I notice your preferred increment is 0.105" each time. On a typical 40 thread mic that would be 4.2 threads. Anything special about 4.2 threads every time?

[mklotz]

Marv, I notice your preferred increment is 0.105" each time. On a typical 40 thread mic that would be 4.2 threads. Anything special about 4.2 threads every time?

As the quote says, it's done so the spindle seats at different rotary orientations each time. The last thing one would want is an increment (such as an integer multiple of 1/40 = 0.025) so the spindle always seats at the same orientation.

[WyoGreen]

I imagine that the "high quality model made in China", is one of the knock-offs mentioned earlier. A few years ago I read a thread that compared battery life on these calipers. First off, most of these calipers do not turn off, they just blank the display. The Chinese calipers had the highest current draw (even with the display blank), thus the shortest battery life. The Mitutoyo's had the lowest current draw, so they had the longest battery life. In addition, the SR type batteries that Mitutoyo uses last much longer than the LR type batteries that the cheaper calipers use. You can use a SR replacement battery in the cheaper calipers to obtain a longer battery life.

Steve

[DanLins]

I imagine that the "high quality model made in China", is one of the knock-offs mentioned earlier. A few years ago I read a thread that compared battery life on these calipers. First off, most of these calipers do not turn off, they just blank the display. The Chinese calipers had the highest current draw (even with the display blank), thus the shortest battery life. The Mitutoyo's had the lowest current draw, so they had the longest battery life. In addition, the SR type batteries that Mitutoyo uses last much longer than the LR type batteries that the cheaper calipers use. You can use a SR replacement battery in the cheaper calipers to obtain a longer battery life.

Steve

Look closely at the cheap knock-offs on eBay. Most have a resolution to the nearest 0.001", while the real ones are good to 0.0005". eBay does not seem to be able to police these knock-offs very well.

Dan L

[Andy Smith]

Look closely at the cheap knock-offs on eBay. Most have a resolution to the nearest 0.001", while the real ones are good to 0.0005". eBay does not seem to be able to police these knock-offs very well.

Dan L

I bought one to have as backup for when my cheap supermarket one died I had had it for six years,The"Mitutoyo" didnt last SIX weeks. junk

[Toolmaker51]

Look closely at the cheap knock-offs on eBay. Most have a resolution to the nearest 0.001", while the real ones are good to 0.0005". eBay does not seem to be able to police these knock-offs very well. Dan L

YES, DanLins, 100%.
To All; I don't see policing by Ebay as a real thorough undertaking. If US Customs, Rolex, Gucci, any automaker, antique Colts, musical instruments; probably any item in the global market can't get a handle on trademarks, no one can monitor actual product. I'm certain a number of high volume sellers 'augment' their inventory with counterfeits; some unintentionally, usurped by low price wholesaler.
First clue to me? Just notice if they use a stock product photo. If 40 different sellers display 100's of identical rows upon row, THE PRODUCT IS THE SAME. Some are so unfamiliar with items, text is copy/ paste too. Or reminds you of poorly translated instruction manual. Steer clear. Caveat emptor.
If unsure, use those with some kind of brick and mortar presence, there are plenty.

[Paul Jones]

Toolmaker51,

I have a 6" Mitutoyo model 505-637 dial indicator I bought in 1970 and it has worked very well and accurately until about three years ago. I check my dial, electronic and 1" and 2" mics every six months with a series of gage blocks to check for wear and for peace of mind. That is when I discovered the Mitutoyo dial indicator was measuring 0.0015" too large between 0.450" and 0.550". I think the precision rack used for measurement must be more worn in this range but it took many years before it made any difference. Three years ago, I replaced the dial indicator with a Mitutoyo 6" Absolute AOS Digimatic model 500-170-30 electronic caliper. It works very well, does not eat batteries, knows how to maintain zero without checking at zero, turns off automatically when put back in the toolbox and other than the back of the plastic display case showing signs of wearing from sliding on the work bench when it is picked up, I have no complaints.

The cost of your time, reputation and materials can be easily lost when not using quality measurement tools so I think it is worthwhile paying more for precision measurement instruments you will keep for a lifetime and you will trust. The worst thing is doing your machining by the book and discovering your craftsmanship was compromised by your measuring instrument.

Thanks for listening,

Paul Jones

[Saltfever]

Electronics are wonderful but I am moving back to full mechanical. While I change all my batteries at the same time once a year I am phasing out electronic everything. There is much more peace of mind with a dormant mechanical instrument resting in a drawer. You can’t say the same thing for anything electrical. I can’t tell you how many devices have been ruined by Duracell batteries. They are complete crap. It took a while and the loss of some lovely tools but I finally caught on. I will never buy a Duracell anything. The company was purchased a few years ago and downgraded their manufacturing.

[mklotz]

Electronics are wonderful but I am moving back to full mechanical. While I change all my batteries at the same time once a year I am phasing out electronic everything. There is much more peace of mind with a dormant mechanical instrument resting in a drawer. You can’t say the same thing for anything electrical. I can’t tell you how many devices have been ruined by Duracell batteries. They are complete crap. It took a while and the loss of some lovely tools but I finally caught on. I will never buy a Duracell anything. The company was purchased a few years ago and downgraded their manufacturing.

I'm sure there are poorly made batteries but so far I haven't been able to single out a manufacturer. I've had several flashlights ruined by leaking Duracells as well as other name brands of batteries. I've never had a leaking Japanese battery but that might be coincidental.

I have dozens of devices that use "coin" batteries (e.g. CR2016, CR2032) and I never have had a leaker. Is it the chemistry or the case construction that makes these so device-friendly?

[mwmansfield]

I'm sure there are poorly made batteries but so far I haven't been able to single out a manufacturer. I've had several flashlights ruined by leaking Duracells as well as other name brands of batteries. I've never had a leaking Japanese battery but that might be coincidental.

I have dozens of devices that use "coin" batteries (e.g. CR2016, CR2032) and I never have had a leaker. Is it the chemistry or the case construction that makes these so device-friendly?

Duracell changed to an off shore manufacturer and the batteries were changed and the change is that the can that the battery is assembled in is reversed. Instead of the negative being the bottom of the can and case of the battery, they have made the positive the bottom of the can and put a seal and negative end cap on the battery. There are several brands that went to this method of manufacturing and it don't work very well at all as most leak, even brand new in the packaging! I have went through everything I have Duracell batteries in and almost all were leaking (I live at 6500 ft above sea level). The AAA and AA seem to be the worst for me but that was the most sizes I use. The date codes make no difference as all Duracell batteries are now made this way and most all will leak, especially if any pressure builds up in the cell due to altitude or anything that causes a pressure to develope in the cell.
There are some great technical articles that can be found by Googling defective leaking batteries or such. Googling leaking Duracell batteries will probably bring up what you are looking for and will explain better what the exact problem is. Hope this helps and hope you don't have any Duracell batteries in any of your expensive equipment. If you do, you better find another brand that has the positive end of the battery sealed rather than the seal on the negative end. I have thrown away several hundred dollars worth of batteries and some equipment that had the electrolyte leaked out and had got under the IC's on the citcuit boards and caused unrepairable damage to the instrument.
Duracell is happy to replace the batteries with the exact same type and some may be leaking when you receive the replacements.
Good luck with getting Duracell to replace any equipment that their leaking batteries have damaged or destroyed.
I purchased a set of Duracell flashlights of the aluminum MAG type that were LED and very bright and had a flashing mode on them to scare someone away supposedly(?). I bought these at one of the large box stores that requires a yearly membership. One used D cells, one used C cells. Of the two sets of these flashlights I purchased, all but one would not work, I opened them up and all had leaking Duracell batteries in them, 1 I couldn't even get working as it had eat all the tracks from the circuit board that had a IC, few other components and the large LED array. The aluminum tubes were etched from the leaking batteries which was sealed to the outside air supposedly as they were supposed to be waterproof. I took back the set that I couldn't even get working and got my money back. They made a remark that they had almost all returned that had been sold.