Quick Change Tool Post for Lathe

Quick Change Tool Post Plans for Sale - $10.00

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If you purchase these plans and are not 100% satisfied, we'll refund your purchase price.

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Tool Post Features:

• Designed for the utmost rigidity: Unlike dovetail designs, the post and tool holder lock together like a single, solid piece of steel
• Tools can be removed and remounted with better than 0.001" accuracy
• Independent tool position adjustments
• Tool height is easily adjusted and held constant without use of a lock nut
• Tools can be removed and remounted with a single hand, no tools required: This provides the fastest tool change of any known design
• Tool holders feature two tool mounting positions at 90 degree orientations: This facilitates turning and facing cuts without rotating the post
• Simple design with a minimum number of parts
• Parts are easy to make: No dovetails
• Sized for a 9" lathe and 1/4" to 3/8" tool bits
• Can be easily scaled for other lathe/tool sizes

These plans include:

• A 25-page PDF instruction manual including:
• Full, detailed, step-by-step construction procedure
• 11 technical drawings.
• 7 photos.
• BOM (Bill Of Materials) for the post and for the tool holders

Feel free to post any questions you may have in this discussion, either before you purchase or during construction. I DO monitor this thread. Or, post pictures of your finished QCTP.

Questions about buying tool plans? See: http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/f...6068#post65876

$10.00 - Click here to buy now via PayPal and download instantly

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My other plans ..............................

Attachment 24361
Magnetic Soft Vise Jaws
Quickly install the perfect jaws for the task at hand.

Attachment 24362
Illuminated Dropped Parts Finder
Unique use of light allows small parts to be easily found on dirty floors.

Attachment 24363
Measuring Tape Dispenser
Handsome appearance. Dispenses accurate lengths of tape.

Attachment 24364
Adjustable 3D Printer Reel Stand
Inexpensive, easy to make, adaptable for any reel size.

Attachment 24365
Universal IR Remote Receiver
Provides control of your devices with any IR remote (TV/DVD/BluRay/etc.)

Attachment 24366
Using Angle Gauges for Any Angle
How to set up any fractional angle using inexpensive angle blocks

I just sent out the email notice that these plans had been added, and we already had several orders placed immediately. :D

Got any questions about these plans? Post them here. This is a seriously detailed set of plans for a very well thought-out QCTP, and a steal at only $10.

Jon, Is this a set of paper plans in a binder for the QCTP or is it sent at pdf files to be printed from my computer?

It's a PDF file that you can view, save, or print. I've actually printed this one out myself, and it prints out nicely.

I am Paul, the author of these plans. I have tried to make them as complete and clear as possible but I like to fully support what I sell. I have included my e-mail address at the end of the plans and any purchaser can contact me with any questions they may have.

I also like to see photos of the post as built by others. So, when you build one, please post some pictures here.

Hi Jon,

Your QCTP sounds nice, but it looks like most of the work is in the holder...which would mean quite a lot of work to make multiple tool holders, or removing the three cap screws and replacing the tool every time you want to change tools.

Do I have that wrong?

I'd also like to see a list of materials that would be needed (including what would be needed to make additional holders), their dimensions, a list of machining operations required (like you mentioned...no dovetails necessary...but what operations ARE necessary), and the approximate time that might be expected to make the parts.

Sounds nice, price is great, but my limiting factor is the time it might take and cost of materials.
- J

Here is the BOM from the plans:

Bill of Materials:

Post:

1 Post 1018 Carbon Steel Round, 2” OD x 2.75” long
1 Tee Nut 1018 Steel Rectangle, ½” x 1.25” x 1.5”+ (cut from 1.25” x 2.5” below)
1 Stud Setup Stud, ½-13 x 3”
1 Nut ½-13 Coupling Nut
1 Washer ½” Washer, grade 5

The following materials are for a single tool holder. Multiply the amounts shown by the number of holders you wish to construct.

1 Holder 1018 Carbon Steel Rectangle, 1.25” x 2.5”, about 2.562” long
1 Clamp 1018 Carbon Steel Rectangle, 1.25” x 2.5”, about 0.562” long
2 Screws Button Head Cap Screws, grade 5 or 8, 5/16-18 x 1”
3 Screws Socket Head Cap Screws, grade 8, ¼-20 x 1”
1 Screw Socket Head Cap Screw, grade 5 or 8, 10-32 x 1”
1 Screw Adjustable Clamp Screw, 3/8-16 x 1”, KBC Tools #1-905-MH306 or equiv.
1 Washer 3/8” Washer, grade 5

Of course this is for the size in the plans (8-13 inch lathe). If you scale it for a different size lathe, then the materials must also be scaled.

The holders for my post do use more material than the common, dovetail holders. That is one of the trade offs for a more rigid QCTP. I have made about 6 holders so far and without changing any tools in them, I am able to do 99% of the work that I want to do. Of course I do plan to make more holders when time is available.

As for difficulty, I think my holders are actually easier. They require a central hole that must be bored: only the diameter must be precise and you can use the post as a gauge. In my opinion, that is an easier operation than cutting a dovetail. And yes, I have done both. Both styles, in fact all styles of tool holders, require milling a slot for the tool. My holders have two slots on adjacent sides so I guess that is a bit more work, but the setup is the same, just rotate the holder in the vise. And there is no reason why you could not just cut one of them on a given holder. The diagonal flat is not hard to cut and mill. That operation is completely explained in the plans, including how measurements are made. And that, diagonal face, is the only external face that needs to be machined: the others can be left with the mill or saw finish if you wish. The rest is just drilling and taping. I didn't keep track of my time so don't hold me to it, but I think I did about the same amount of work on the post as on the first four holders. And the holders are easier to make in batches: I plan to do at least six in my next batch, perhaps a dozen or more. That should hold me for at least a day or two.

A list of machining operations? OK, I will try to remember:

Lathe Operations:
Turning
Facing
Boring
Center Drilling
Turn Chamfers

Mill Operations:
Flat Faces
Grooves

Miscellaneous:
Sawing
Drilling
Filing
Taping

I hope I didn't leave anything out. I tried to keep the design simple so that it would be easy to make. Back to time, just briefly; the real time savings with this post is in using it. If you are making many copies of a part, this post will allow time savings every time you need to change tools. The tool change is literally a single hand operation with what is essentially a single motion. Grab the handle and twist upward. Keep going up and the tool is off. Two seconds? Less? And just down and down to solidly mount the next tool. No wrenches are needed so you never have to search for where you put that wrench. And you don't have to use a second motion to tighten the holder in place, just the one, fluid motion and you are back to making chips. I feel I am justified in claiming it allows the fastest tool change of any Quick Change Tool Holder.

I hope this answers your questions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WindJunkie

Hi Jon,

Your QCTP sounds nice, but it looks like most of the work is in the holder...which would mean quite a lot of work to make multiple tool holders, or removing the three cap screws and replacing the tool every time you want to change tools.

Do I have that wrong?

I'd also like to see a list of materials that would be needed (including what would be needed to make additional holders), their dimensions, a list of machining operations required (like you mentioned...no dovetails necessary...but what operations ARE necessary), and the approximate time that might be expected to make the parts.

Sounds nice, price is great, but my limiting factor is the time it might take and cost of materials.
- J

---

Hi Paul (sorry...I realized I should be addressing you, not Jon just after I sent my last message),

Thanks for the reply, excellent and thorough answers to my questions. I have an Aloris BXA QCTP for my South Bend 13, but I have no QTCP for my Habeggar Swiss JH102 at all...and I'm seriously considering making yours instead of buying an AXA size set for it. It's not for cost savings (a whole AXA set can be had for around $100), but I'm intrigued by the design...

I'm just trying to figure out which type is more versatile. With the dovetail type you have two mounting positions that are 90 deg apart, so you can grind a HSS tool on both ends, and have it stick out of the holder on each end. Then you just mount it on one face for one operation and switch to the other face for another operation.

I presume your design makes the rotational alignment of the tool holder vs the post repeatable? I'm trying to see how that's accomplished. Perhaps the coupling nut at the top sets and locks the rotational angle somehow??? But it seems that it would block removal of the holder.

Also, with your one-motion removal and mounting...that sounds like a handle has to be made for each tool holder, is that so?

Thanks, J

OK, more questions. Excellent!

The dovetail posts do usually have two mounting positions while mine has only one. True. But you can mount tools on two sides of my holders so you have that same 90 degree mounting option. In all honesty, I never thought about using both ends of a tool in a single holder. I have not tried it and I doubt that you could have both ends of a tool protruding from my holders at the same time. If you look at the photo at the top of this thread, the 3/8" tool bit in that photo was new and had been sharpened only once. And even if you could get longer tool bits, the geometry would not allow both ends to be used.

I guess I figured that tool bits are inexpensive and the holders are fairly easy to make so I saw no reason to economize by having one holder with two cutting ends on the tool. I keep my post in one position and grind my tool bits to be used in that, somewhat standard position, for the various operations.

Yes, the rotational alignment in the horizontal plane (around the tool post) is very repeatable. Frankly it is better than I could measure and definitely well under 0.001". This is accomplished with a generous sized flat on the round post. I thought long and hard about that feature. Most tool posts with round posts try to use some kind of a key for rotational alignment but this is problematic. First, there is always some play with a key in a keyway. This means that the user must always mount the holder with a twist in the same direction so the key always aligns with the same side of the keyway. There will be variations in the rotational position with differences in the amount of torque applied while mounting it. Chips or dirt on the key can come into play. And there will be wear so that play will only increase with time and use. In my design, with a wide flat, once the holder is locked down, there is zero distance between any part of the bore of the holder and the post, including at that flat. So, not only is there no need to apply a twist to the holder while mounting it, but any wear on the post or holder will be self compensating and a worn holder will grip just as tight and just as repeatable as a new one. The coupling nut at the top is just for mounting the post. After that, it is not used or disturbed for anything. It has absolutely nothing to do with the rotational alignment. I used a coupling nut instead of a standard one to allow some extra clearance where that nut is close to the flat on the post so holders could be mounted and removed without any problems. That is why that coupling nut has been turned round at it's bottom.

By the way, it may not be obvious, but my design is somewhat self cleaning as there is little room for chips between the post and holders. And it is easy to clean as there are no internal corners.

Re: A "handle" for each holder: Yes, you do need one of those adjustable clamp screws (handle) for each holder. You can see that in the BOM that I posted above. I did not make them, they were purchased, but the screw does need to be cut to the correct length. If you feel this is too expensive, you could use a cap screw but then you would need a tool (socket or Allen wrench) to mount and remove the tool holders. I like the fast tool change so I have purchased those clamp screws. I never claimed that this tool post was the least expensive choice. But it is not the most expensive either. BTW, the plans include a single tool that is used to mount and set up the post and holders. This tool is "X" shaped, like the common automotive lug wrenches with four arms and it has three of the arms used for two Allen wrenches and the third for a socket that fits the mounting nut. You could easily add a fourth tip to this tool for another size cap screw. This is a relatively unique tool and is hard to misplace in the shop so it is usually easy to find when I need it.

As to which is more versatile, I guess that is in the eye of the user. Different people do different work and have different needs. This is a fact of machining life. Versatility was on my mind while I designed this tool post, but it was not at the top of the list. My first concern was that I wanted the most rigid, solid, vibration free tool post possible. I think I accomplished that with the solid, one piece post and the complete, 360 degree wrap of the holders. These two pieces lock together like one single, solid piece of steel. My second concern was that the mounting position of the tools should be 100% repeatable. This is because I was doing and still need to do a lot of repetitive work for batches of identical parts. I also believe I accomplished that goal as I have been able to make multiple parts with the same dial settings. Hand-in-glove with this is the need for fast tool changes so I could make parts as fast as possible and again, that was accomplished. Another thought was I wanted the various adjustments of the tool position and angle should be independent of each other. This was one of my major complaints with the lantern style holders where a single bolt locked down and loosened all adjustments at once. Again, I think this goal was met. This post provides the features that I need and use. Frankly, I never saw any need for some fancy but little used features, like being able to mount the holders at a large number of repeatable angles.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WindJunkie

Hi Paul (sorry...I realized I should be addressing you, not Jon just after I sent my last message),

Thanks for the reply, excellent and thorough answers to my questions. I have an Aloris BXA QCTP for my South Bend 13, but I have no QTCP for my Habeggar Swiss JH102 at all...and I'm seriously considering making yours instead of buying an AXA size set for it. It's not for cost savings (a whole AXA set can be had for around $100), but I'm intrigued by the design...

I'm just trying to figure out which type is more versatile. With the dovetail type you have two mounting positions that are 90 deg apart, so you can grind a HSS tool on both ends, and have it stick out of the holder on each end. Then you just mount it on one face for one operation and switch to the other face for another operation.

I presume your design makes the rotational alignment of the tool holder vs the post repeatable? I'm trying to see how that's accomplished. Perhaps the coupling nut at the top sets and locks the rotational angle somehow??? But it seems that it would block removal of the holder.

Also, with your one-motion removal and mounting...that sounds like a handle has to be made for each tool holder, is that so?

Thanks, J

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jon

I just sent out the email notice that these plans had been added, and we already had several orders placed immediately. :D

Got any questions about these plans? Post them here. This is a seriously detailed set of plans for a very well thought-out QCTP, and a steal at only $10.

---

Paul,

How is radial position controlled? Is radial position repeatable?

Dick

By radial position I must assume you mean the horizontal angle of holder around the tool post. I assume this because "radial position", strictly speaking, would be the distance from a center point and that is trivial to hold constant.

Anyway, the horizontal angle of the holder is very well controlled by a generous flat on the tool post and a matching, "D" shaped hole in the tool holder. I have found this to be far superior to the common use of a key on other QC tool posts that are based on a round post. In use I have found the repeat-ability of the position of the tool to be well better than 0.001" in all three dimensions, no matter what set of coordinates that you use to measure it (Cartesian or Polar). Unlike a key which will become less accurate as it wears, this "D" design of the post provides a self compensation for any long term wear so it should be equally repeat-able after years of use. When the holder is tightened on the post, it comes into intimate, 360 degree contact with it every time it is mounted: there are no gaps. This is also why it is extremely sturdy: there is just no where the holder can move to. It is locked solidly on the post as if the two were one piece of metal. I believe it is THE sturdiest QC tool holder system of them all. Far better than any of the dovetail designs or any others.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old_toolmaker

Paul,

How is radial position controlled? Is radial position repeatable?

Dick

---

Hi Paul
Quick question. I am a very new machinist and am wondering if it is within my skillset to make this qctp of yours, I bought a rerasonably priced bxa set and low and behold it is way to big, and axa is too small I am on a grizzly 0602 10x22 manual lathe without dro etc.
Thanx for your time...
J

Charron63,

While this is not a "first project", it is not beyond the skill level of a beginner. I am not a professional machinist so I was also a beginner at one time and I remember the feeling. This project was one that I conceived and constructed when I purchased my South Bend 9" lathe. I was then and now still am very aware of the problems and needs of beginners. And I addressed this when I wrote the instructions that accompany the drawings for these QCTP plans. They are not just drawings: they include a complete and comprehensive description of each and every step.

At the top of this topic, Jon has described my plans as a 25 page manual that includes "Full, detailed, step-by-step construction procedure". In it I tried to give enough construction details for each part so that even a beginner can build it. Where there is a critical measurement, I show the manner in which I accomplished it with the needed precision. There are only about four or five dimensions that are critical and those and, where needed, the methods of achieving them are discussed.

I deliberately avoided the use of dovetails which are common on other QC tool posts. I have cut dovetails but it is more complicated, requires dedicated cutters, and are not, in my opinion, the best way to mount the holders. My design is not only easier to machine, but, in my humble opinion AND EXPERIENCE, just as accurate in tool location as the dovetail designs. And it is far more rigid.

As for your 10 x 22 Grizzly lathe, I do not know the distance from the top of the compound to the center line of the lathe, but it is probably similar to or somewhat more than my SB-9. The basic size of the machines is very comparable so most of the dimensions will not need to be changed. On my lathe this dimension is about 1.140". The tool post, as designed, allows for distances between 1.10" and 1.61" without any changes. It can be easily adjusted in this range with a built in height adjustment screw. If your lathe exceeds this range, you may need to extend the thickness of the base section of the post to bring it up enough to meet your centerline. This can be with a change in one dimension on that post or it could be done with a separate spacer ring. We can discuss that here if you wish.

Anyway, I can not guarantee anything, but I see no reason why a beginner can not build this tool post. And, if you have any problems, I am here. I monitor this discussion every day, including most weekends and holidays. If you have any problems I will promptly answer any questions that you post. You are not alone.

I believe that Jon, the owner of this board, offers a 30 day, money back guarantee so you can purchase the plans and read them to see what they entail. But we have had many sales and I do not think anyone who has purchased them has taken him up on this yet.

Hi Paul,

I am assuming the "D" shaped post must be tapered. Is this correct?

Dick

Why would you assume that? For it's main section, the section where the alignment and locking takes place, it is not tapered.

But at the top I did include a very generous, 45 degree chamfer to make it easy and fast to put the holders on. It is a "no fumble" design. This is part of the design that makes it the fastest quick change tool post in the business. It literally takes only one or two seconds to mount AND tighten a tool holder in place with perfect alignment to it's previous position when it was last removed. And no tools are needed for that, just your hand and a single motion. Removing the holders is equally fast, again with a single motion. If you are a professional and concerned about tool change time, this is easily the fastest QCTP design that you will find. Anywhere and at any price.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old_toolmaker

Hi Paul,

I am assuming the "D" shaped post must be tapered. Is this correct?

Dick

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Paul Alciatore

Charron63,

While this is not a "first project", it is not beyond the skill level of a beginner. I am not a professional machinist so I was also a beginner at one time and I remember the feeling. This project was one that I conceived and constructed when I purchased my South Bend 9" lathe. I was then and now still am very aware of the problems and needs of beginners. And I addressed this when I wrote the instructions that accompany the drawings for these QCTP plans. They are not just drawings: they include a complete and comprehensive description of each and every step.

At the top of this topic, Jon has described my plans as a 25 page manual that includes "Full, detailed, step-by-step construction procedure". In it I tried to give enough construction details for each part so that even a beginner can build it. Where there is a critical measurement, I show the manner in which I accomplished it with the needed precision. There are only about four or five dimensions that are critical and those and, where needed, the methods of achieving them are discussed.

I deliberately avoided the use of dovetails which are common on other QC tool posts. I have cut dovetails but it is more complicated, requires dedicated cutters, and are not, in my opinion, the best way to mount the holders. My design is not only easier to machine, but, in my humble opinion AND EXPERIENCE, just as accurate in tool location as the dovetail designs. And it is far more rigid.

As for your 10 x 22 Grizzly lathe, I do not know the distance from the top of the compound to the center line of the lathe, but it is probably similar to or somewhat more than my SB-9. The basic size of the machines is very comparable so most of the dimensions will not need to be changed. On my lathe this dimension is about 1.140". The tool post, as designed, allows for distances between 1.10" and 1.61" without any changes. It can be easily adjusted in this range with a built in height adjustment screw. If your lathe exceeds this range, you may need to extend the thickness of the base section of the post to bring it up enough to meet your centerline. This can be with a change in one dimension on that post or it could be done with a separate spacer ring. We can discuss that here if you wish.

Anyway, I can not guarantee anything, but I see no reason why a beginner can not build this tool post. And, if you have any problems, I am here. I monitor this discussion every day, including most weekends and holidays. If you have any problems I will promptly answer any questions that you post. You are not alone.

I believe that Jon, the owner of this board, offers a 30 day, money back guarantee so you can purchase the plans and read them to see what they entail. But we have had many sales and I do not think anyone who has purchased them has taken him up on this yet.

---

PAUL
I am in no way concerned with the $ for the plans, Right now I have been pulling my hair out trying to make the Chinese POS that came with my lathe work and have had them send two different compound slides and three tool holders trying to find one that is even square for the T-slot. You cannot believe how many hours I have spent at the lathe trying desperately to figure out why my lathe tooling was eating 20$ carbide inserts like jujubee's. Unbelievable! Anyhow I will order the plans in the next couple of days to be certain. right now the Classwork alone is drowning me!
Thanx for the detailed response and look forward to working more with you in the future.

Appreciatively
Josef

Hi Paul,

I am just getting back to this post. It is unclear to me how tool tip height is set and held constant. Could you clear that up for me?

I guess I have to give away all the secrets. There is a hole drilled vertically through the body of the holders which is counterbored for about half the distance and tapped to hold a SHCS. That screw goes out the bottom and rests on the base flange of the post. That provides the adjustment. Then I have a trick to hold it instead of using a lock nut or set screw. This provides enough friction to hold it against any unwanted changes, but allows for easy adjustment as needed. This is a very inexpensive trick and it is explained in the text of the plans. I have never had any problems with this feature.

I have been told that this screw, sitting in the counterbore, would be a place where chips would collect. I have not had that problem as I have few tools with chip breakers, but if it became a problem I would just stuff a cotton ball on top of it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old_toolmaker

Hi Paul,

I am just getting back to this post. It is unclear to me how tool tip height is set and held constant. Could you clear that up for me?

---

Hi Paul,

Thank you for the explanation. You have been very helpful. Now I have a better understanding of what you have designed.
If I decide to build your tool post I will purchase the plans.

Paul,
Thank you for sharing your design. I recently completed building mine and all worked out well. I changed the post nut to be able to use an old wrench that came with my SB lathe. Otherwise it was made per the plans which were very clear and easily understood. Below is an image of the finished product less the handle which is currently on order.

Attachment 26750

Nice job 2gr8kids! Since you posted your completed tool from plans, we'll buy you any plans of your choice. Let me know which ones you'd like, and PM me an email address to send them to.

Fantastic,

It is really great to hear some feedback from someone who has actually built one. It looks great. I hope it proves to be as useful to you as it is to me.

Thanks for taking the time to post.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2gr8kids

Paul,
Thank you for sharing your design. I recently completed building mine and all worked out well. I changed the post nut to be able to use an old wrench that came with my SB lathe. Otherwise it was made per the plans which were very clear and easily understood. Below is an image of the finished product less the handle which is currently on order.

Attachment 26750

---

Paul,
i just finished the tool post today. I have never been disappointed on any plans I've bought here and yours was no exception. Very well detailed and complete. You must've put a lot of time into them.
I did make a few changes as I have a larger lathe. I wanted to hold 5/8" tool bits so also had to mill the tool pocket deeper (.500"). I just went slightly larger on the tool holder dimensions adding 1/8" all the way around. Ideally I would have liked to raise the height but didn't have material any taller. I used 5/8-24 all-thread for the stud as I already had a t-nut made and had the all-thread I also didn't drill the mounting nut all the way through.
The only big mistake was when I drilled the holes that hold the tool bit down I did it on the wrong side. Just put it in the vice and started drilling and tapping. Oh well not big deal I guess. Thanks for a great project.
Attachment 32149

Fantastic! Thanks for posting. I love seeing the posts that others have made. And yours looks even better than mine. Nice job on the finish.

If you can, post something about how you find it in use. I would love to hear from others on that score too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddickey

Paul,
i just finished the tool post today. I have never been disappointed on any plans I've bought here and yours was no exception. Very well detailed and complete. You must've put a lot of time into them.
I did make a few changes as I have a larger lathe. I wanted to hold 5/8" tool bits so also had to mill the tool pocket deeper (.500"). I just went slightly larger on the tool holder dimensions adding 1/8" all the way around. Ideally I would have liked to raise the height but didn't have material any taller. I used 5/8-24 all-thread for the stud as I already had a t-nut made and had the all-thread I also didn't drill the mounting nut all the way through.
The only big mistake was when I drilled the holes that hold the tool bit down I did it on the wrong side. Just put it in the vice and started drilling and tapping. Oh well not big deal I guess. Thanks for a great project.
Attachment 32149

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Nice job on the toolpost.
Nice workmanship also!

Nice work ddickey! Since you posted a pic of a tool you built from plans you got on this site, you can choose ANY other plans you'd like for free (we'll buy them from the plans author and send them to you for free). PM me and let me know which ones you'd like.

I have just discovered another advantage of my QC tool post over the common, dovetail design while reading about a problem in another group. Apparently the locking handle on some dovetail posts can interfere with one of the two mounting positions for the dovetail holders. The locking handle can be "clocked" (adjusted) to be out of the way for changing holders on one of those positions but will interfere with changes on the other. And if the handle is adjusted for one holder in both positions, then there is no guarantee that other holders, with slightly different dimensions, will also work that way. The person asking about that problem, who is not a novice by any means, said it turns his QC tool post into a slow change tool post. I'm sure he doesn't mean it is as slow as a lantern style tool post, but apparently it does slow him down by a significant amount.

My holder completely avoids this problem by placing the locking handle on the tool holders themselves instead of on the tool post. Just one more advantage to this design.