Sheetmetal Brake full set plans & materias

SheetMetal Brake Free full set Plans and materials.
The basic plan is the same for the simple and the modified version.

https://youtu.be/-YZbt-6-2C8

You can view the whole step by step building process at the previus three video parts.
Part1
Sheet Metal Bender Brake The Make (DIY) & First Use Stainless Steel BBQ
https://youtu.be/FOYczH-yiWI

Part2
Sheet Metal Bender Brake Part2 (DIY) Sharpening the Edges of Brake Clamp
https://youtu.be/yzc3NvkaC5Q

Part3
Sheet Metal Bender Brake Part3 (DIY) Fully Modified
https://youtu.be/H3B9kJIfx2A

Thanks kess! We've added your Sheetmetal Brake to our
Brakes and Presses category, as well as to your builder page: kess' Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/sheetmetal-brake-40"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/142967/sheetmetal-brake-40.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/sheetmetal-brake-40">Sheetmetal Brake</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/kess">kess</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/brake">brake</a></div> </div> </div> </div>

How to get your own printable version.

1. While you are watching the video at full screen, pause it at the desired point.
2. Hit the Print Screen button on your keyboard.
3. Open windows Paint or your favorite Photo Editor and hit paste or (Ctrl+V)
4. Now you be able to print it
or to convert it to (.pdf) file
or to save as picture.
Do the same at the rest desired points.

Hi,

Just wanted to say how much I enjoy Home Made Tools. I didn't realize it was a requirement to post a project in order to be a member of this forum. Remove me name if you must!

Steve

Hi Steve,

Welcome! :welcome:

No, it's by no means required to post a project, though we do like for each of our members to at least say hello. The camaraderie here amongst the builders in our community is a huge part (and a fantastic resource) of our essential character. So…

What sort of homemade tools are your favorites? Are you working on anything at the moment?

Ken

Nice job I think i may build one. How much thickness will it bend

Hi G.Paul,

Welcome! :welcome:

What sort of project do you have in mind for the brake? Are you working on anything at the moment?

Ken

Hi G.Paul,

The bigger bending thicknesses that I have tried without any problem:
a. Simple version
0.8mm stainless steel AISI 304 & AISI 430 at 800mm width
1mm regular steel at 380mm width.
b. Modified version
1mm stainless steel AISI 304 at 800mm width
The max useful capacity of this sheetmetal brake is 805mm (at both versions).
The sheet metal on demonstration at part3 video
is 0.90mm regular galvanized steel,
the bending is 5mm from the edges, and I think that is a very good bending.
(the smaller the height of bend the most difficult the job for the brake)
Also keep in mind that Stainless steel needs about 4x more force per mm² than a regular sheetmetal steel to formulating.
(I am not sure if I have used the correct terminology in English, but I believe you have understood what I mean).
My needs till now, are only from 0.40~1mm at SS sheet metals,
so I haven’t try it at bigger thicknesses yet,
but I am sure that can do the job good enough for bending regular steel, aluminum, copper.
At what thicknesses/materials plan to be use it?

Regards
Bill

I have a home machine shop, every now and then i get into projects of metal bending. I like to be able to bend 10Ga tats why i asked what gage the brake can handle. I am also interested in a rod bender i can build.
Thanks

Thanks Kess

Oh forgot. If this brake can bend 5mm that's 3/16 that should do me

Hi G.Paul,

You can see 2 of my post here at HomemadeTools.net
a. Ring Roller Bender with Hydraulic Assist (DIY)
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/r...sist-diy-37027
b. DIY Metal Bender
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/d...l-bender-37753

Hope to help.

Regards
Bill

Hi G.Paul,

You can see 2 of my posts here at HomemadeTools.net that can be helpfoull to you

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/d...l-bender-37753

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/r...sist-diy-37027

Regards
Bill

No, 5mm is to mucth for this brake.
You need a Hydraulic sheetmetal brake.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kess

SheetMetal Brake Free full set Plans and materials.
The basic plan is the same for the simple and the modified version.

https://youtu.be/-YZbt-6-2C8

You can view the whole step by step building process at the previus three video parts.
Part1
Sheet Metal Bender Brake The Make (DIY) & First Use Stainless Steel BBQ
https://youtu.be/FOYczH-yiWI

Part2
Sheet Metal Bender Brake Part2 (DIY) Sharpening the Edges of Brake Clamp
https://youtu.be/yzc3NvkaC5Q

Part3
Sheet Metal Bender Brake Part3 (DIY) Fully Modified
https://youtu.be/H3B9kJIfx2A

---

These are some photos with bends that have made it by this brake.
The sheet metal is Stainless steel AISI 304 at 0.70mm thickness.
Attachment 11557 Attachment 11558
Attachment 11559 Attachment 11560
Attachment 11561 Attachment 11562
Attachment 11563 Attachment 11564
Attachment 11565 Attachment 11566

Also you can watch the brake in action on this video:

https://youtu.be/NIxD03xrxyw

10 gauge is pretty ambitious for a standard style brake, you might want to consider a press brake. Many plans around for hydraulic press add on ones
.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dwbachor

10 gauge is pretty ambitious for a standard style brake, you might want to consider a press brake. Many plans around for hydraulic press add on ones
.

---

One more. How did you grind the bending edge

Hi G.Paul,

Mount the clamp onto a flat and stable metal surface (I had use my hydraulic portable table) using two pieces of angle-iron (e.g. 30x30mm or 35x35mm.

Attachment 20914 Attachment 20915

Be sure that the hypotenuse (BC) of the triangle (ABC) of your clamp is absolute parallel with the surface of your base and do welds to keep it all in place.
Clean up the paint or the rust at the inner sides of angle iron about 10-15mm from corner. Paint with Aniline paint and wait for a while to dry.
Using a caliper or a Vernier, mark a straight line at the entire length on both inner sides at 4mm from the corner.

Attachment 20916

(Aniline paint is a very thin paint that used for clean and easy to view marks at metal treatment. You can make it, using 400ml Alcohol, 50ml Shellac, 18~20ml Aniline and very good shake.)
Place a square tube and lock it with clamps so as to using it as slide-base for grinder.
Place a flat bar 3mm thick onto the tube.

Attachment 20917

According to dimensions of your grinder the height of the slider (tube+flat bar 3mm) must be so as the grinding disk to be absolutely parallel to surface of base and be adjacent to both sides of angle-iron.
Don’t use a flat bar thicker than 3mm, but you can use a combination of bars one over the other, (the top bar must be the 3mm thick bar).
The total height of grinding is 3mm but we need to make only 2.8mm leaving the rest 0.2mm for the final sharpening by file.
So when start the grinding, watch the lines, and be careful, to not exceed the limits.
The use of a new unused 180mm grinding disk is required for best performance.
Start grinding sliding the grinder gently from one end to other.
At starting do not use any pressure on the grinder, let it work with its own weight, and then push it very gently and with the same pressure from one end to other.
If you are not sure that you can control your pressure just slide and let it to work alone. May be take little more time but we need a very good grinding without gaps.
After some passes and when the grinding sides, start to have different width or have already grind about 1.5mm of the height, remove the (3mm) flat bar and continue to slide the grinder direct up to the tube.
Attachment 20918
According to setup (main base, clamp, and grinder slide-base) the grinding axis is parallel to main base.
The more grinding, the most offset of the grinding axis to downwards,
(The center is: at the point that the grinders handle, be adjacent to the slider).
The side of angle iron that is closer to slider has less grind (or more height) from the far away side.
But we need 3mm grind at the both sides.
Removing from the height of slider 3mmt (the flat bar), the grinding axis will move upwards creating an opposite offset that equate the grinding height on both sides.
When the grinding axis becomes parallel to main base, then the height will be the same at both sides of angle-iron.
Using a flat file refine the last 0.2mm.

https://youtu.be/yzc3NvkaC5Q

Regards

Thank you Kess

Hi, Such great work Thank you .

Thanks a lot.

Hi I have been a member for a while and not active in posting . I made a Metal Brake 10 years back that was constructed out of Offcut material at my work . Was Abel to bend Up to 6 mm Mild steel on 900mm W I love this site with all the ideas and tools that others made. And yes there is room for improvement on my design .thinking now I need to start maby making Metal Brake 2.0 lol .Pardon my spelling English not my First Language .