Simple electrical wire joining technique - GIF

Simple electrical wire joining technique.

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Previously:

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...354#post211685
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...480#post215587
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...233#post199843
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...339#post188772
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...3020#post97850

Potentially satisfactory, but don't solder it without lots of heat shrink reinforcement. That will not withstand vibration or flexing very long.
Would improve by removing less of the insulation, or setting bight closer to it, tie knot, nip the surplus.

A better way to do this is a https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

In full honesty, I don't do either of these. I give the wires a half twist or just put them side by side and let the mechanical strength of the solder do the work.

That which meets requirements, of stringent customers.
https://shop.ipc.org/ipc-j-std-001
https://shop.ipc.org/taxonomy/term/659

"J-STD-001 is recognized globally for its criteria on soldering processes and materials. Updated with participants from 18 countries providing input and expertise, this document brings the latest criteria along with new graphics to the industry for ease of use and comprehension. This is a must-have for those in the electronics industry with an interest in the process and acceptance criteria for..."

A lot of stranded wire is now made of copper coated aluminum. It doesn't crimp, wrap, or solder nearly as well as pure copper stranded wire. There's also the issue of corrosion in certain environments. As usual, beware of cheap sources.

Yet another source of unintended consequences from some "modern" technology designed to improve this quarter's bottom line. And how about the connectors? Everything in current use becomes obsolete and needs to be replaced with new special designs "plated wire compatible". (2-3x the cost of the current stuff) Quick, change the code to allow this before our changing environment finds a way to weaponize it.
Don't we have enough ignition sources for the insurance companies to worry about already? Love that ocean breeze and all the salt in it. And 60 mph wind gusts in rain storms, soon to be over 80.
Seriously, this is great information to know about as I make plans to build a new house. Another fine point in the specs to be sure of.

Speaking of joining wires, real wire vs plated impersonators. I don't buy imports of certain Asian countries; but there is one worthy of copying.
Tying splices or circuit branches are the tasks for which it is suited. Can't see it plausible for stranded or plated, just solid wire.

It's a drill-powered tool with 3 or 4 'ports' and a hole up the middle.
Shaped somewhat like a golf tee, the shank is chucked in a drill.
Strip the conductors a specific length, shorten all but one.
That one goes up the middle, the others into the 'ports' arrayed at the base.
Run the drill at moderate speed, the arrayed conductors are wrapped tightly around the center, resulting helix provides a 'feed' action.
The center, now extending beyond the wrap, is folded over to increase retention, the advertisements don't highlight how to insulate the bare connection.
That lack, just like had demonstration be included set's them up for liability claims, YMMV.
Not aware how long or number of takes to produce the video, but it is convincing; almost.

Wire nuts are very accepted, used 100's myself, but not 100% sure a tapered bundle in a tapered hole is mechanically sound.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

Speaking of joining wires, real wire vs plated impersonators. I don't buy imports of certain Asian countries; but there is one worthy of copying.
Tying splices or circuit branches are the tasks for which it is suited. Can't see it plausible for stranded or plated, just solid wire.

Wire nuts are very accepted, used 100's myself, but not 100% sure a tapered bundle in a tapered hole is mechanically sound.

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The tapered spring inside the better wire nuts do make for a mechanically sound connection, but not where movement and vibrations of mobile applications are involved without care being taken to secure them from movement. As with any electrical connection each has their place and each type should not the considered for the wrong application.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank S

The tapered spring inside the better wire nuts do make for a mechanically sound connection, but not where movement and vibrations of mobile applications are involved without care being taken to secure them from movement. As with any electrical connection each has their place and each type should not the considered for the wrong application.

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And yet far better than pinched splice "taps".

I just finished stripping all the wiring and components from a 'used to be' 2 axle 5th wheel camper. Lots of wire nuts and non-shielded ring terminals. originally they'd be enclosed only weather resistant, NOT weather proof, or easy to trouble shoot.
BUT they were all incredibly tight, yet not sealed with tape, silicone, shrink tube. I suppose mainly in consideration of labor.

RE-wiring hampered until I found a satisfactory weathertight box to begin anew. Got a surplus diecast enclosure, deep hinged cover with a square sectioned O-ring against 'knife' edges. It'll fit up under the neck, almost perfect protection from being hit, lid hinged down as a loose part tray, loads of room for terminal strip, fuses, spares, circuit breakers, and standard liquid tight entries, such as grommets or conduit fittings. Problem with conduit fittings, not suited to wire gauge diameters and much larger penetrations to enclosure, but mechanical (NPT) seal.
Everything will be crimped and soldered non insulated terminals, adequate looms and lacing, with longest runs through the frame laying in conduit, NOT wrapped around. About the only exposed wire will be electric brakes.
No pinch locks. No wire nuts. No bare splices.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

And yet far better than pinched splice "taps".
snip
No pinch locks. No wire nuts. No bare splices.

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Pinch locks; yeah I call them U'Haul clips always considered them a road side emergency patch to get home thing to be replaced before going out again. They cut through the insulation and have no good way to prevent moisture getting in and corrosion from starting. Even with liberal amount of tape wrapped around the connection is tenuous at best too little contact area no direct wire to wire mating, can even sever a few strands of the wire when installing.

Mobile home frame manufactures love them though. just string the tire and use a plier to snap in place no stripping no crimping no shrink tubing not even any taping since the brakes or lights only have to last long enoug to get it from the MFG to the dealer what happens after that is the contract haulers problem

U Haul clips. Ideal name.
Effective short term only, until proper joint can be applied. Like in a downpour, or too cold for climbing underneath and handling tools. Of all the monumental products from 3M, can't shake that image. I still have the same supply (container died) from decades ago, rarely used them other than test building 12v circuits, cutting out later and doing up properly.
All too common on vehicles pressed into towing use, when virtually no manufacturers build wiring set up to be tapped. Wonder how many roadside fires are caused by them failing to be secure and start arcing. Sparks looking for fuel.