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Thread: Slitting saw questions

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    Supporting Member bobs409's Avatar
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    bobs409's Tools

    Question Slitting saw questions

    I'm getting ready to make a slitting saw arbor and was wondering what is the preferred size, 7/8 or 1 inch?

    Also, I see a TON of different sized blades for these in thickness, teeth count and type. Any suggestions on the more common (best) ones to start out with just for general work, nothing specific at this point. Just maybe 2 or 3 to start out with.

    Thanks,


    Bob
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    Supporting Member rossbotics's Avatar
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    rossbotics's Tools
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    Hi Bob
    Those are good questions, as far as arbor size goes it really doesn't matter, slitting saws come in a much more selective thicknesses than slotting saw, so you may want to consider what size slot you want first, cause some come with 1" arbors and others with 7/8", before it's all said and done you will wind up making both, slitting saws are mainly for cutting narrow slots while slotting saws are much thicker and heavier built.

    Hope this helped
    Here is a link to an arbor I made, can be modified very easily

    http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/r...aw-arbor-50375

    Doug
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    Supporting Member bobs409's Avatar
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    bobs409's Tools
    Yeah, maybe I will make both. I'm taking a short cut on this. I have an import boring head that unscrews from it's R-8 shank so will use that shank on the tools I make.

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Toolmaker51's Tools
    Most slitting saws are narrow, they don't tax power of a milling machine. Slotting cutters require a degree of rigidity in spindle and part set-up, most certainly.
    There is no assurance in threaded boring head arbors being concentric, or engineering concentricity into the connection of the cutter arbor.
    I'd turn in one set up a cylindrical and on size fitting your largest collet and 7/8" or 1" for cutter. Then you'll need a keyway, cap, and socket head screw. Flat heads offer the most clearance, 1/4" is sufficient. Counterbore the cap deeper than the 7/8" or 1" 'spud' to accommodate narrow slitters, commonly .015. The key is best engaging cutter, arbor, and cap for obvious reasons, many over tighten this screw and deform cutter flatness. Put it on so cut is CW rotation and loosening will never be an issue.
    Don't be disappointed in commercial or shopmade arbors producing uneven sound during the cut. Unlike boring [a single point operation] or milling [comparatively smaller diameter & proportionately greater space tooth to tooth]; slitting is particularly difficult to maintain the exact feed rate and chip load. Watched expert tool and cutter grinders sharpen those also; concentricity is not a question.


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    Last edited by Toolmaker51; 01-22-2017 at 10:01 AM.
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