Strikealight

[Philip Davies]

Forged from a 3-square file, normalised, not tempered, hopefully will produce some sparks. I am not so pleased with the design now as I was at first, No doubt you can see why.. I can’t sell it, it would be taken for a knuckleduster.

[DIYer]

Thanks Philip Davies! We've added your Strikealight to our Forging and Casting category,
as well as to your builder page: Philip Davies's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Strikealight by Philip Davies

tags: forging

[BuffaloJohn]

You could flatten it in the middle a bit and it would look more like the flint & steels that I have used. Not sure what you planned to strike on your device, but a flattened surface is much easy to hit, having a longer strike surface is easier - think flintlock...

[Philip Davies]

Thank you, John. I based it on pictures I have see, and they were curved, if I rightly remember.

[BuffaloJohn]

Check out:

https://www.flint-and-steel.com/firesteel/

I didn't know about this site till today, but you can see the shapes - they have 13 fire steels shown. Basic characteristics - you need to have the stricking surface far enough from you knuckles so it doesn't turn into a bloodsteel, you want a minorly curved stricking surface, you want the surface to be smooth (also known as not a file).

I found a thread on another site discussing the type of steel and they say smooth is best, hardness is important - too soft won't spark, too hard won't spark - there is a Goldilocks zone - probably determined by the rock you strike with. Here is the thread:

https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threa...steels.154536/

So - Philip - I'd like to see more on you quest to make a firesteel - John

[Philip Davies]

Thanks again, John, that’s very interesting. I’ll give it a go.