Trying to build a swaging tool from a Harbor Freight 24" bolt cutter. Need to know the dimensions for the swager opening to crimp 1/8" to 1/4" wire rope cable ferrules. Any information would be appreciated. Larry
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Trying to build a swaging tool from a Harbor Freight 24" bolt cutter. Need to know the dimensions for the swager opening to crimp 1/8" to 1/4" wire rope cable ferrules. Any information would be appreciated. Larry
Sounds like a good idea, but I seriously doubt if a HF bolt cutter is strong enough to do that swagging. I bought a set to cut 3/8" rebar. The handles are so springy, it is difficult to get enough force to cut. After struggling to get through 3 or 4 cuts, the blades had big gouges and would no longer cut. I realize you are probably going to make your own swagging dies. Just saying the basic tool itself is not really very strong. Of course there is the warranty, they took them back with no problem.
Be sure to save your receipt!!!!
Thanks for the input, hemmjo. Perhaps swager is not the best name for it, and maybe just "crimper" would be more appropriate. What I'd like to try to make is something like the one Home Depot sells for crimping small aluminum ferrules for 1/8" or so wire rope(nothing heavy duty). Following is a picture of one. I'd just like to know what the hole diameters are here so I can cut or grind an opening that size into the jaws. If this is a 14" swager, the jaws are probably around 3" long, and it seems like the biggest hole is around 1/2 inch. And, you're certainly right about cutting rebar with these. I have both a 24" and a 48" bolt cutter and even with the 48" it's not a piece of cake. You still have to press hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by hemmjo
Attachment 18948
http://www.usrigging.com/pdfs/Swage-Inst.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by larryaguir
It depends if you want to make a fixture mounted on the bench top or portable, bench top would be able to be built of a more powerful style from heavy gauge steel. With that in mind, the principle of the conventional 'Hold down clamp' which when applied, will multiply up to possibly 10 times the amount of pressure required to actuate the lever, and as long as you harden your dies, would be a fast and repetitive action and easy to operate. Just my thoughts on this problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by larryaguir
Attachment 18952Attachment 18953
Hi larryaguir. I have attached pics of my swaging tool which might help. The holes are numbered 1,2 & 3 and are nominally 4,6 & 8 mm diameter respectively. I hope this is of use to you.
Try this
click on image to make larger then save larger image to your computer
Attachment 18954
Thanks for the pictures, Glueman2. I think with your information I can make the tool I need, after looking at the pictures you sent. Frank S also sent me some finished dimensions for the swaged ferrules so I can check my work and see if I made the tool to the right specifications.
Frank S, thanks for the chart with the finished dimensions for the swaged ends using copper and aluminum ferrules. Glueman2 sent me pics of the tool, and with your chart I can check finished ferrule dimensions and fine tune if needed.
Converting a bolt cutter to a crimping tool, sure, why not. Try to copy the dimensions of an existing crimper. When cutting the crimping notches, grind them, do not use a torch or plasma. Grind slowly, you want to keep the heat out of the jaws. No more than 400 or 500 degrees F. 400 the metal can turn a light yellow color. Put a nice radius on all your crimping edges, you don't want to cut the aluminum, you want to squish it. If the handles bend reinforce them before you turn them into a banana. You should have plenty of power to crush hollow soft aluminum of 1/2 inch? diameter. It's great fun to modify an existing tool, cheaper, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by larryaguir
Remember when in doubt grind the dies undersized but don't clamp all the way down in one step clamp down multiple times to achieve the proper finished diameter and do not over swedge as this is just as bad as not swedging far enough. over swedging can deform the wires causing them to break or in the case of using softer sleeves like copper and aluminum they can split open
Back when I was making my elevators I swedged 100's co cables some of the larger 30 to 50 ton freight platforms had as many as 16 cables on them, each needing a threaded thimble on the ends I used a 250 ton hose crimper to do this but randomly sent samples to a 3rd party testing lab in Germany We machined our own studs so this became doubly important to maintain my certification. as my studs were of my own propitiatory design. At the lab we would test the rope and the studs to destruction if possible.
Trust me a machine that is capable of destroying an 80 mm diameter rope had no problem with the largest of my ropes which were only 25 mm
Hi Larry,Quote:
Originally Posted by larryaguir
Some good ideas here, but much as I like making tools, I would be very cautious when dealing with a homemade crimper, particularly if the crimp has to deal with heavy loads (eg porch swing). Professional crimpers are carefully designed and constructed to achieve a guaranteed and repeatable closure pressure for each size of crimp so the crimp does not separate under the specified load. All the best,
Sprog
