Tapping Set with chucks for or Mill Drill Press

I was about to make a tapping stand and then thought about how it would be used.
Mostly after drilling on the Mill or Drill Press I would tap the holes or use the small
brass threading adapters in the previous thread. Now I already had two Irwin
tap chucks that were designed to be used with 3/8" socket drive handles or ratchets.
These chucks hold very well and I tested the run out in my lathe which was about .004".
So I thought it was worth making another tap adapter for the Mill and Drill Press so that
I would not need to make the tapping stand. Well here it is:

3/8 drill rod for the arbor that will fit in the chuck.
3/8 drill rod for the long and short tommy bars. Why two bars? Well one for smaller taps and
the long one should be good up to about 1/2".
One 3" chunk of Hot rolled for the main housing. Turned it to 7/8" then added the square end
for entry into the Irwin chuck. Drilled and reamed the housing 1.5" deep for the arbor and then
cross drilled and reamed for the tommy bars.

Cheers, JR

Post withdrawn.

Thanks Marv, I like the idea of flutes on the body for use on the smaller taps. I think I will do that mod.
No problem on the other type of tap guides for the smallest taps. I had designed my tapping stand using
your T-handle tap wrench thread. I would have turned down the larger of the two (I have a 3 piece set)
tap wrenches to match the smallest. (not much difference in the ones I have). Then the main shaft for the
tapping stand would have had 3 cross drilled holes in the end that would line up with the T-handle tap wrenches.
I like the Irwin chuck method better since I found it to have less run out than the T-handles. Of course my T-handle
chucks were not Starrett.

Cheers, JR

I withdrew my post because I felt stupid preaching about small tap wrenches when I hadn't yet read your post about making some.

Nevertheless, it's all good. What's really important is alerting folks to the fact that they can save themselves from a lot of broken taps and drunken threads by the simple expedient of making piloted tap wrenches or adding pilots to existing ones.

Your post was fine Marv, no harm no foul. Besides you had a great tip about fluting the tool.

Cheers, JR

<!-- BEGIN /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->
Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Drill Press Tapping Set to our Tapping and Threading category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-tapping-set"> <img src="/uploads/208968/homemade-drill-press-tapping-set.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-tapping-set">Drill Press Tapping Set</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/jjr2001">jjr2001</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/drill-press'>drill press</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/chuck'>chuck</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/tapping'>tapping</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
<!-- END /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->

where is the post on making some? ie: making piloted tap wrenches or adding pilots to existing ones.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ralphxyz

where is the post on making some? ie: making piloted tap wrenches or adding pilots to existing ones.

---

Here's my collection of purpose built piloted holders...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/tap-holders-26298

and a description of converting a commercial tap wrench to pin-guided...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/t...uide-pin-39232

A friend of mine is a 'real machinist' (that is, he actually makes a good living making little pieces of metal out of big pieces of metal).
Years ago, he showed me how to hard tap on a Bridgeport mill. His mill is 3-phase, so all he had to do was tap at a low RPM down into the hole and then reverse the motor at the right instant and the tap backed right out.

Not too easily done when blind-tapping!
:- )


On my drill-press I mounted a 1HP three-phase motor with one of those cheap Ebay VFD's. I can do the same kinda thing, but I have to tap REALLY slow and simply stop the motor, then reverse it. It coats down a turn or so before it stops so I just have to anticipate things a tiny bit.

It'll do full 1" taps happily... in Styrofoam, that is!

Actually, it will 'just' do a 1/2-13 in steel.

Obviously, one has to use a forward-chip-ejecting tap, not your standard auto parts store four-fluted '1-turn in, half-turn out, 1-turn in...'. hand tap.

My only problem is that my Grizzly keyless chuck does tend to let go of the tap when in reverse on the bigger taps, so I have to pop a tap wrench (or vice grips!) on the tap and back it out sometimes. Small price to pay for not having to aove anything or risk a tap getting broken by angling it in the hole.

And I must admit that 8-32 is the smallest I go! No 0-sized taps for me!
: - )

Yes indeed. The VFD addition to a drill press,mill, or lathe is a great upgrade.
I added one to my mini lathe when the motor gave it's life. The previous motor was a brushless variable speed DC motor.
The lathe is now much improved due to the increase in torque especially at low speed.

The Drill press was just retrofitted with a 3/4 hp reversible motor. Makes tapping possible on the DP whereas before
I would not tap on the DP.

Cheers, JR

Strange re: " The previous motor was a brushless variable speed DC motor.
The lathe is now much improved due to the increase in torque especially at low speed."

One of the most common criticism of VFD was that they lost torque at low speed.
My Brushless DC motors have lots of torque at low speed.

Ralph

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ralphxyz

Strange re: " The previous motor was a brushless variable speed DC motor.
The lathe is now much improved due to the increase in torque especially at low speed."

One of the most common criticism of VFD was that they lost torque at low speed.
My Brushless DC motors have lots of torque at low speed.

Ralph

---

Well I guess it all depends on the frequency you are feeding the motor.
The old motor was a 750 watt brushless DC for the MicroMark 7x16 mini lathe. I replaced that
with a 1HP 3 phase inverter duty motor and VFD..Why?
Well the original motor replacement cost $335.00. For that cash I was able to pickup
on Amazon a 120v VFD with 240V 3P output rated at 1HP and a matching motor and it was less cash for the pair
than just the cost of the replacement motor alone! Crazy isn't it?

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...ny-lathe-70060

Ok the new motor is much larger, I had to mount the VFD and Motor external to the lathe but
I have a much superior lathe system compared to the way it operated before. How much of
that "new power/torque feel" is due to the mass of the new motor and how much is related to
the reduction in speed I now have since the new motor is lower in rpm and I also added a jack
shaft and reduction pulley set. I never used the old motor past 50 or 60 percent of speed.
This one I will on occasion push it up to 75 percent of speed. (more than enough for carbide
and nice blue chips)!

Now the effect that I see is that this new setup does not choke at low speed when cutting off or
taking a large cut in steel like the old original little motor did. I keep the load on the lathe down to
about 1HP by setting a current limit on the VFD and would never think of going back to that
brushless original equipment motor even if it were free!

Here is a little torque/rpm chart with an explanation for KKurtz engineering:


Cheers, JR

My new mill comes with a 2hp, 380V, 50Hz single phase motor. Are VFDs available for less than a kings ransom for these?

I will have a 380V, 20A outlet to power it, the wires have already been run.

Tapping on Bridgeport or Bridgeport clone is dead easy, especially reversing the tap out of the hole.
All you do is set your drill depth stop to whatever depth you want the tap to go to and as the tap is going in, watch the stop.
When it's about at the stop just hit reverse and out comes the tap with NO smashed taps in the blind holes.

Easy as fallin' of a log, eh. :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jdurand

My new mill comes with a 2hp, 380V, 50Hz single phase motor. Are VFDs available for less than a kings ransom for these?

I will have a 380V, 20A outlet to power it, the wires have already been run.

---

I found this at Amazon but have no idea of the quality. It 380v in and 380v out 3 phase 2 HP. Might just work for just a kings supper!

Cheers, JR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08934PX94...NsaWNrPXRydWU=


oops, I missed the single phase!

Edit #2

Ok, it may be possible but it will be a case of experiment and maybe don't drop the speed below the speed that the motor's
centrifugal switch cuts out on startup. Going to be trial and win or loose. (even more money to the king).

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-3-phase-input
Cheers, JR

I think I'll just stick to the 5 speed gear head, safer. Or, I guess I could check on an upgrade to a 3 phase motor and a 1 in 3 out phase vfd. I'll be sitting when they reply.

Sounds like a good plan. New Mill. New Motor. I would stick with that too.
Cheers, JR

I used the Consew 3/4 hp brushless DC motor
on my 12x36 lathe and Clausing 8520 Vertical Mill. For $99.00 I can live with any shortcomings, which I have not found yet.

Ralph

Nice, Thanks for the info. I searched for Consew on the net and found their website.
If my MiniMill motor/speed controller ever bites the dust I will certainly look at the Consew.
Looks like a perfect fit. Looks like it would work as well for the MiniLathe.
Great tip.

Cheers, JR

One problem people have is that the Consew controller is a closed box there are no schematics if you wanted to fix or modify something.

I did add a 10k potentiometer in place of the hall effect foot switch and that works, I am planning to utilise a DS1803 programmable digital pot
for automated spindle control.

The 3/4hp might be a bit much for a mini lathe but certainly would work, actually I have a 4x12 lathe that I have thought of powereing with the Consew motor.

Ralph

Ralph

Those brushless Consews are annoying to reverse, like for threading, because you have to go through the settings on the menu to do it. You can hack it with an Arduino but it’s not instantaneous.

I have mine with footpedals for speed and direction which I like but it can be kind of clumsy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threesixesinarow

Those brushless Consews are annoying to reverse, like for threading, because you have to go through the settings on the menu to do it. You can hack it with an Arduino but it’s not instantaneous.

I have mine with footpedals for speed and direction which I like but it can be kind of clumsy.

---

A DPDT toggle switch can be used to switch two of the motor leads and that will reverse most brushless motors.
Could just put a small mini box in a convenient location and that will reverse it without an extra foot pedal.

If that mod were done I would be careful not to hit reverse while the motor was still rotating.


Cheers, JR

Yes Reverse is a pane, especially the first time if you did it often I do not think it is that much of a problem.
I have been "thinking" of some sort of switch.

Of course I would like to have automation, controlling the spindle speed with a micro and
DS1803 (digital pot) and then Reverse using Mosfets.

Another problem is stopping the spindle, there is no instantaneous stop, there is a large capacitance
that needs to be run down before the motor stops.
Actually when I move my manual 10k pot down the motor stops more quickly so there might some
reversing in the control box.

It would be nice to have a schematic, I really do not have the time to reverse engineer the
control box.

It might be simpler to do away with the Consew controls and substitute a
ESC (Electronic Speed Control) of course I do not know the motor voltage,
I suspect they might be 110v.

Ralph

Still, for the total cost of both motor and speed controller which is quite low I think it is
a viable alternative power source for a power tool motor.

Cheers, JR

Definitely for $99.00+ it is a great motor. I am "thinking" of more things that I might power with them.

Ralph