Unimat faceplate

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May 7, 2018, 08:02 AM
threesixesinarow

4 Attachment(s)

Unimat faceplate

Here is a faceplate I made from scrap steel a few years ago.

It’s about 3” diameter and is threaded M12-1.0 so it can screw onto either the headstock or tailstock of an old Unimat, or anything else with the same thread.

The clamps hold relatively thin work off the faceplate surface. They’re a little fiddly to use.

Attachment 23624 Attachment 23625

Attachment 23626 Attachment 23627
May 7, 2018, 09:53 PM
Toolmaker51

Quote:

Originally Posted by threesixesinarow

Here is a faceplate I made from scrap steel a few years ago.

It’s about 3” diameter and is threaded M12-1.0 so it can screw onto either the headstock or tailstock of an old Unimat, or anything else with the same thread.

The clamps hold relatively thin work off the faceplate surface. They’re a little fiddly to use.

A little fiddly is not so bad, if they are secure. Small machines x small parts = higher RPMS.
And plenty stuff in orbit already...
May 9, 2018, 02:11 AM
rossbotics

Lokks nice, very well executed

Doug
May 9, 2018, 05:36 AM
threesixesinarow

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

A little fiddly is not so bad, if they are secure. Small machines x small parts = higher RPMS.
And plenty stuff in orbit already...

You’re right, and those unused slots could be used for more clamps for extra holding power, or screw dogs for finer fiddling.

A traditional one would probably be run at more reasonable speeds than my Unimat:

https://books.google.com/books?id=HE...page&q&f=false
May 9, 2018, 05:46 AM
threesixesinarow

Thanks, Doug.

- Clark
May 9, 2018, 07:32 AM
DIYer


Thanks threesixesinarow! We've added your Unimat Faceplate to our Lathe Accessories category,
as well as to your builder page: threesixesinarow's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-unimat-faceplate"> <img src="/uploads/213621/homemade-unimat-faceplate.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-unimat-faceplate">Unimat Faceplate</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/threesixesinarow_2">threesixesinarow</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/lathe'>lathe</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
May 9, 2018, 01:46 PM
Paul Jones

threesixesinarow,

That is a useful faceplate. I like you lathe adaptation using an old Unimat spindle. What is the distance between lathe centers?

I also like the small milling machine you made (see the thread http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/h...0-2#post109791 ).

Regards,

Paul
May 10, 2018, 06:20 AM
threesixesinarow

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Jones

That is a useful faceplate. I like you lathe adaptation using an old Unimat spindle. What is the distance between lathe centers?

Thanks, Paul - Your faceplate looks more versatile!

I think that lathe can fit five or six inches depending on what centers so maybe a bit less than the Unimat.

Attachment 23672
May 10, 2018, 03:02 PM
Paul Jones

threesiixesinarow,

Thanks for faceplate comment. Unfortunately, my faceplate is also a little fiddly to use. For many of my setups, it is easier to start with the faceplate sitting horizontally on the workbench, lightly snug the clamps down and then mount the faceplate back on the lathe and then make the final small adjustments using a soft-faced or brass hammer to tap into final position.

The 3" swing Unimat lathe has the homemade faceplate weighing only a few ounces and so it is much easier to do the removing the faceplate to the workbench and then remounting the faceplate on the lathe. My heavier cam-lock faceplate for my my 12" swing lathe is harder to do with this technique but it works on the bigger lathe.

Regards,

Paul
May 11, 2018, 08:18 AM
threesixesinarow

Loading it horizontally is a much better strategy than what I’ve been doing and the slots and off center clamps only make it worse.

Coil springs around the main screw between the top and bottom part my clamps would help a lot but I don’t think I left enough room. They’re so light maybe hot melt glue or putty would hold them long enough to get the work in place.

Thanks for the tip!

- Clark
May 12, 2018, 06:06 AM
Toolmaker51

Quote:

Originally Posted by threesixesinarow

Loading it horizontally is a much better strategy than what I’ve been doing and the slots and off center clamps only make it worse.

Coil springs around the main screw between the top and bottom part my clamps would help a lot but I don’t think I left enough room. They’re so light maybe hot melt glue or putty would hold them long enough to get the work in place.

Thanks for the tip!

- Clark

Good ideas; hot melt glue or putty, how about neodymium button magnets?. When I use a faceplate it's for multiple parts, so I mask off or affix rails to re-locate each.
May 13, 2018, 05:19 PM
threesixesinarow

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

Good ideas; hot melt glue or putty, how about neodymium button magnets?. When I use a faceplate it's for multiple parts, so I mask off or affix rails to re-locate each.

Ah.

Thank you, that’s perfect.

Here - nothing is tightened!

Attachment 23692