Using steel rule and 90-degree tangent for centre height tool setting Quick and easy

Printable View

Feb 20, 2018, 04:05 PM
thehomeengineer

4 Attachment(s)

Using steel rule and 90-degree tangent for centre height tool setting Quick and easy

Hi All
I have seen a lot of lathe centre height setting gauges. (which I might add are nicely made) I usually set my tools against the revolving centre or dead centre from the tailstock. If I need to set a tool half way in to a job which is supported by the tailstock I use the following quick fix. I use a steel rule and simply set this between the work piece and the tool to be set. If the rule leans forward the tool is to high and if the rule leans back to low. So, when the rule is upright the tool is on centre height and therefore, the cutting edge must be at a 90-degree tangent to the centre line/height of the machine. Simply and very quick.

photo showing rule between component and rule

Attachment 22297

Tool to high

Attachment 22298

Tool to low

Attachment 22299

Tool at centre height

Attachment 22300

Thank you for viewing
The Home Engineer
Feb 21, 2018, 07:22 AM
DIYer


Thanks thehomeengineer! We've added your Tool Height Setting Method to our Measuring and Marking category,
as well as to your builder page: thehomeengineer's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-tool-height-setting-method"> <img src="/uploads/210717/homemade-tool-height-setting-method.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-tool-height-setting-method">Tool Height Setting Method</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/thehomeengineer">thehomeengineer</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/scale'>scale</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/measurement'>measurement</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
Feb 21, 2018, 12:26 PM
olderdan

I remember once seeing an old toolmaker doing this on a drill press, I said why are you doing that, he said finding the centre of the bar.
I said how accurate is that going to be? a couple of thou came the reply, and it was.
We should not forget these old tricks, thanks for posting.
Feb 21, 2018, 05:01 PM
PJs

Quote:

Originally Posted by olderdan

I remember once seeing an old toolmaker doing this on a drill press, I said why are you doing that, he said finding the centre of the bar.
I said how accurate is that going to be? a couple of thou came the reply, and it was.
We should not forget these old tricks, thanks for posting.

Roger that! That is the way I was taught way back when. The only thing I do different is use about 3-5 thou feeler gauge I keep in the drawer. I found using a scale the tool bit would get caught in the engraving and throw me off.

Thanks for posting this The Home Engineer. :hattip:
Feb 22, 2018, 10:23 AM
Jonny

Congratulations

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehomeengineer

Hi All
I have seen a lot of lathe centre height setting gauges. (which I might add are nicely made) I usually set my tools against the revolving centre or dead centre from the tailstock. If I need to set a tool half way in to a job which is supported by the tailstock I use the following quick fix. I use a steel rule and simply set this between the work piece and the tool to be set. If the rule leans forward the tool is to high and if the rule leans back to low. So, when the rule is upright the tool is on centre height and therefore, the cutting edge must be at a 90-degree tangent to the centre line/height of the machine. Simply and very quick.

photo showing rule between component and rule

Attachment 22297

Tool to high

Attachment 22298

Tool to low

Attachment 22299

Tool at centre height

Attachment 22300

Thank you for viewing
The Home Engineer

Congratulations
Finally, Someone has remembered the simplest and possibly best method of locating a lathe tool on center.
I have quite enjoyed all the clamor of building "Hight Gages" to do the job when the absolute simplest and best method of locating was using a thin flat piece of metal against the work or something on the lathe that is always on the vertical center.
An OLD Tool Maker
Jon
Feb 22, 2018, 10:50 AM
mklotz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonny

Congratulations
Finally, Someone has remembered the simplest and possibly best method of locating a lathe tool on center.
I have quite enjoyed all the clamor of building "Hight Gages" to do the job when the absolute simplest and best method of locating was using a thin flat piece of metal against the work or something on the lathe that is always on the vertical center.
An OLD Tool Maker
Jon

I might point out that it may be OK for setting tools used on the exterior of the workpiece but it isn't very useful for setting boring bars.
Feb 22, 2018, 11:38 AM
thehomeengineer

Hi Marv
I simply move the tool to the opposite side of the workpiece and set the boring tool in the same way on the outer diameter. If using a boring bar it is highly unlikely that you would be using a centre to support the work piece.
The Home Engineer
Jun 19, 2018, 05:22 PM
fandres

Thanks thehomeengineer neat trick worth remembering.
Jun 20, 2018, 06:25 AM
WOTSIRB

chuck a piece of ROUND bar in your 3 jaw, out of true a bit? swing the chuck round so that the tool tip touches the run out high spot(felt tip pen applied to bar, if fussy) install rule and carry on.
Jun 20, 2018, 10:32 AM
marksbug

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehomeengineer

Hi Marv
I simply move the tool to the opposite side of the workpiece and set the boring tool in the same way on the outer diameter. If using a boring bar it is highly unlikely that you would be using a centre to support the work piece.
The Home Engineer

ditto!!! many guys would not of thunk about that, simple things make the jobs eazyer. I my self bought one of those fancy aluminum red "edge technology" level thingy. it seems like a good idea at the tyme:headshake: where my lathe is it's a little difacult to see that angle within a degree or 3......that dam fancy anodized pretty little tool( and when I say little I mean little) is so small I cant use it..... no I dont have mondo charlie hands, but if I was a 12 year old girl I might be able to use it. they make about 4 versions of it.some have a rod that go's in the chuck witch would be perfect if you set every tool ahead of time and had lots of holders...I like to set it off the work peice....almost impossiable with this little POS. it's also so narrow it's hard to get square on any thing.:headscratch:.... I was expecting it to be about 3x as large as it is and be able tog grab it and go quickly. So for now it's on the wall of shame.:smash: And to farther add to the issues....setting the vial square to the tiny POS with the small set screw that moves the vial when snuged down...:angry: is pretty reedickyoulass. as I always say" YOU CANT FIX STUPID" and yes I did fall into that category when a spent the $16 or 18 what ever it was for the junk. But!!! It is made in USA.:headscratch::hattip: ( for the spellen teachers, my spellen is better than the tool i just dissscribed.:bow:)
Jun 20, 2018, 10:49 AM
Jonny

The best is usually the simplest and most efective

The only tool settersI saw in 40 years as a prototype machinest, instructor and master machinest are the ones supplied with the Hardinge lathe. They are simple and well made.
Now after all my working years I rarely used anything to set the tool hight. You can usually tell by the way the tool is cutting. When facing you'll leave a stub if you are too low and if you are too high you won't be able to cut to the center.
The "Calibrated Eyeball" is often used and being within a few thousandths is close enough for most jobs. When you are doing precision work and need to be "very careful", that's when you use the scale against the round part of the work or something on the tailstock that is on center.
Another trick is when you are facing a part and cut low, reset on the small remaining stub by eye and you'll be very close to "on center".
Thnx
Jonny

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehomeengineer

Hi All
I have seen a lot of lathe centre height setting gauges. (which I might add are nicely made) I usually set my tools against the revolving centre or dead centre from the tailstock. If I need to set a tool half way in to a job which is supported by the tailstock I use the following quick fix. I use a steel rule and simply set this between the work piece and the tool to be set. If the rule leans forward the tool is to high and if the rule leans back to low. So, when the rule is upright the tool is on centre height and therefore, the cutting edge must be at a 90-degree tangent to the centre line/height of the machine. Simply and very quick.

photo showing rule between component and rule

Attachment 22297

Tool to high

Attachment 22298

Tool to low

Attachment 22299

Tool at centre height

Attachment 22300

Thank you for viewing
The Home Engineer
Jun 20, 2018, 10:02 PM
volodar

"But!!! It is made in USA." Funnee! Seriously. Liked your post. Your "spellen" as well.
Oct 17, 2018, 04:30 PM
Radioman

I learned something today. Thank You.
Oct 17, 2018, 07:51 PM
greyhoundollie

Sometimes you can read instructions and general information, and even specific information, but you just can't make "it click" in your brain. But you sir have cut through all of the smoke and mystery with a simple, quick, and easily understandible golden nugget of information. Thank you for your post and Pictures.
Oct 17, 2018, 07:51 PM
Toolmaker51

I can't recall EVER clicking 'Thanks' on so many posts in a thread. Because each is a valid point. Some lathes haven't a machined area on cross slide, making a gauge stand ineffective. That is a logical starting point for what to do instead. The vertical scale is most widely used; but like most tools just isn't the ticket for all situations.
As one getting paid to run projects, has a lot to do about what is done when. One lathe runs a turret toolpost, heights are shimmed. Not bad for insert or brazed tools; PITA for HSS regrinds. My common approach is to set tool #1 with a scale.......then to scribe it lightly across the material. That scribed line is used to reference other cutters. If boring, I'll scribe the face as well. Using a height post here would triple+ time to complete a setup.
But another lathe has a gauge post and quick change, so the options change.
Jan 17, 2019, 05:59 PM
C Tucker

That's the way I learned to set any tool when I started my first lathe job back in the mid 70's.
I never did understand taking time to build a tool height gauge, when I had the tool in my pocket, a 6 inch flexible scale.
Jan 17, 2019, 08:57 PM
jimfols

For 60 years I've used a Thread Pitch Gauge and it has worked well. Plus it's always right there.
I can see the extra length of the rule would be better.
Thanks
Jan 21, 2021, 06:21 PM
MadTrapper

I was taught to use a brass shim as that preserved the tip of the tool? As long as you are not ham fisted then fine?