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Thread: Clamp Knurler Repair

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    jjr2001's Avatar
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    Clamp Knurler Repair

    I have one of the current clamp knurlers from LittleMachineShop. Very similar to many that
    can be found on the net. The shaft pins for the rollers are simply installed with snap rings
    and they wear fast. Also there is a lot of clearance on the width of the knurl wheel housings.

    I replaced the pins (all 4) with shoulder bolts. 1/4" cap screw type worked out perfect.
    They seem to be a bit tougher than the pins and you can reduce the side clearance
    of the wheels and the arms. This increases the rigidity of the knurling tool. Don't take out
    all of that side clearance, leave just enough for a smooth action. You could also make some
    shim washers to remove that clearance and continue to use the original snap ring shafts or
    still replace the pins with shoulder bolts.

    The shoulder bolts are 1" long with the shoulder being about 5/8" long. You need to grind about
    3 threads from each bolt to provide as much clearance to your lathe chuck as possible. I also
    grind a flat on one side of each bolt. Keeps it from turning when tighting the nut and provides
    the needed clearance for the bolt head to fit the knurler's arms.
    Buy extra shoulder bolts for replacements when these new ones wear out. I consider them
    consumables.

    Cheers, JR
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Clamp Knurler Repair-img_1478b-copy.jpg   Clamp Knurler Repair-img_1479b-copy.jpg  

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    Dimitris Polychronis (12-02-2018), Jon (01-18-2018), Paul Jones (01-18-2018), PJs (01-20-2018), Seedtick (01-18-2018)

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    JR,

    I have been wanting to do something similar with my scissor-style knurling tool. It is made from hardened steel so using a tap to cut threads would be difficult so i like your method better.

    Do you use one nut, a jam nut combination or a Nylock nut ?

    Thank you for posting this.

    Regards,

    Paul

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    Paul, I just used a single nut. I have used it many times since and it stays tight as it is.
    I thought I might have to use blue loctite but that has not been necessary.

    Cheers, JR

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    I made one like Rudy Kouhoupt plans in Home Shop Machinist used 1/4" dowel pins with a flat ground on ends with a set screw in arms on the flat of the pins.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nextofkin View Post
    I made one like Rudy Kouhoupt plans in Home Shop Machinist used 1/4" dowel pins with a flat ground on ends with a set screw in arms on the flat of the pins.
    Sounds like that would work also. Depending on the hardness of the dowel pins as compared to the Knurls the wear could be greater on the knurls.
    I would rather the wear was on the "pins" or shoulder bolts than the knurls. Pins and bolts are cheap knurls are not. Just sayin.

    Cheers, JR

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    Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Clamp Knurler Repair to our Metalworking category,
    as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




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    Hi JR,

    I have the same knurler and the same problem! What amazes me the most is the fact that I used the tool 15 times tops (3-4 times on freecutting steel and all the others on brass) and the pins wear out! I thought on making my own pins and then given those for hardening, but its time consuming and pricey! Your solution is by far the best. Unfortunately for me I can't find shoulder bolts (inch sizes) in Greece; only in metric that can't be used in any way, plus that if you want to buy shoulder bolts here you must buy the the whole box (100pc)!!!
    Thanks for sharing

    Cheers
    Dimitris

    Clamp Knurler Repair-p1130753-large-.jpg Clamp Knurler Repair-p1130754-large-.jpg
    Last edited by Dimitris Polychronis; Yesterday at 12:07 PM.

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    Hello Dimitris and thanks for your comment. Supply issues bug us all from time to time.

    What if you used hardened dowel pins. Put a flat on each end where they are in the frame and then put a set screw in the frame to retain it?
    Might be a quick fix.

    Cheers, JR

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    Hello JR,

    Thanks for your reply! As for the hardened dowel pins, it might can found (I'm not 100% sure, because we use metric sizes here). For the set screw I'm afraid that might weaken the frame; the thick side at front of the frame is a bit less than 4.70mm (one hand holds the caliper and the other took the picture), so only a 2mm set screw can be put and the questions are: can the frame withstand the pressure? the set screw can clamp securely the pin in its place? Honestly I don't know!

    Clamp Knurler Repair-p1130755-large-.jpg

    All the best
    Dimitris

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    Dimitris, I agree that there is not much material for a set screw but I think it would hold.

    One other method would be to use a hardened dowel or drill blank or shank from an old drill bit.
    If you have a dremel type grinder with the small abrasive discs you could cut a groove in each end
    of the dowel and use a snap ring or external retaining ring on each end of the dowel. Some method to
    prevent rotation of the dowel would prevent wear in the hole in the arms. Loctite or thread locker might
    work if the end of the dowel is a close fit to the hole in the arm.

    Hope this helps,

    Cheers, JR

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